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I'll be going back to that kind of blue, just with powder, it was rusting up in a bunch of spots and some of the spares I have are from the orange trailmaster so, take it all down, do it up nice :)
17's , 22 in old/bicycle style measuments (there a term for that?)
Not a moped - Beat ya to it!A few weeks ago I came accross a post on the local buy and sell, 63' Tohatu Runpet with a spare for parts.Tossed the ad at Rebel Moby and he talked me into adding another bike to my inventory ;)Bike was in storage, so it took a couple weeks to make a day to pick it up.Picked it up along with a trail master minus an engine.Have just about all the parts I need, miss
You want information for "smoothing" capacitors and "dropping" resistors.C = (I * t) / V for your smoothing capThen you can use ohms law for the resistors.I think you might have hard time trying to actually nail the the 't' factor as you have a variable input, so maybe guesstimate your idle rpm and calculate with that. If I had to guess just from the 12V regulators
You have to seal the evoporust good if you want to reuse it, evaporust evaporates pretty quickly.I'm liking spa minus. Cheap, pellet form makes it easy to work with. Easy to dispose of. It's ph reducer, mix with water and make it acidic.If it's thick rust, and you can't access the area, you'll probably want an acid.Evaporust works wonders quickly for surface rust.Overnigh
Sidelined for now, but will probably finish, shorten it up a bunch too.
I watched some videos of kids with mopeds, not scooters,get hit with one of those cop traps in the Uk.. they didn't put any weight on the bike on the dyno and it didn't shift into second, so they gave him his bike back and away he went.I'm happy with the laws here, registration goes up more expensive each year, but that's the gov for you. Max 70kph, helmet, insurance and min l
Goto the nearest store will pool supplies.Get spa minus. Get some gloves and mix a bunch with water, pour into the tank, let it sit. It's ph reducer, it's really cheap and it's easy to work with, usually pellet form. You can get it just about any hardware store probably.If I remember right though when it mixes with water you get sulphuric acid.Then you can neutralize it and put it
Mikebeez Blkblk Nailed it..Had it apart last weekend... part A is still together and seems tight. Not sure how the bearing got out of it yet.
Not sure what the wiring is like on those bikes, but when I changed the Tomos over to DC I made sure I replaced all of the wiring with thicker gauge stuff to make sure it could handle the loads. A fuse would probably be a good idea especially if you work in a battery.
Anytime you remove a part like that.... put it back together right and don't run it until you do.I'm out two Tomos main gears over the years because I'm an idiot.Redo your stop washers!
If you still don't like how long it takes than yeah, but just a little bit. I'd take out 30ml or so and see how if feels. I don't use the fill hole I measure what I put in. which usually turns out to be 330ml (for close to the shift you are getting) 300ml is what the manual recommends.
Too much/wrong fluid, take ~50ml out an try it.Otherwise sounds kinda normal to me, at least on crap laptop speakers.I run my blue bike just like that, the longer progression, but I'm light and I still get good pull in first while it's changing over.
Pallets... FREE.Had to pay for cinder blocks and some screws, rest is junk pile stuff.
Stove rope (used for wood stove door insulation) works pretty well too and can usually be found at local home diy stores. Wrap the rope around the stinger so that it still fits inside the baffle can and wire it down.Was about half the cost for the same amount of glass pack and to me it's easier to deal with and get a good tight coverage of the stinger.
Ken, 27/26 just shy of why you want
22 will be meh off the line stock. If you're heavy it can be bad.You'll want a little more carb or a kit to really make that much better.Here go for a ride.a55 technigas, 14mm phva 62 main, k&N clone, no clutch mods and 330ml of fluid. I'm 130ishlbsDon't really open it up till I get out of the city though, damn speed limits.Always get a little more out of the a55's sto
If they look worn, change them and the chain.Tire slipping out of alignment sounds like the chain tensioners (snail cam) are not being used on the axle, or maybe not properly, they could be bent, or the stop pin on boxed swingarms could be brokenShould have one like that on each side to adjust tension. If you get them set good they shouldn't go anywhere, unless a sprocket is so bad its just
I use 1 of these, http://www.dx.com/p/286877and 6 of these 4 yellow, 2 red, http://www.dx.com/p/272832Bike is converted to DC, coil is floated run to a trailtech reg rect/battery.Needed to change the flasher and flasher wiring too, but works great.
Push the button harder... my switch takes good pressure to latch.Does the relay click?This bike has and uses keys?Headlight is normal as far as I know, in my experience the bike can't make enough juice to run the headlight/charge a batt, so you get good saftey with the instant signals and good horn.
If you haven't already take the top two bolts out of the engine/frame which will drop it down and make life easier while still keeping it on the bike.Lube up the cyl especially at the skirt are where you will probably mess with it a bit again, the oil and the bevelled lip of the skirt should help if everything is slid in straight. ie, don't try to rock it in.That material seems a little
Sava's suck if that's what you've got on there for tube or tire.Way too many flats here with them. split, leaky tubes and the tires pick up all kinds of stuff and are pretty soft.Get some good tires and tubes, kenda tubes and bridgestone tires here.Haven't had flat like that since, just a blowout after a bad pothole hit.
Seriously wish I wasn't in Canada right now Ken. Good Luck.Arg, this is the reason I don't like to look at the buy and sell. :P
Does the revival have a boxed swingarm like that ? or do the mounts go through the box?
Do what was suggested in the other thread, change the fluid, make sure you have ~330ml in there when you refill and see what happens.If it's still giving you problems, post a video or explain the problem a little better.
Tighter first and maybe second gear clutch spring(s)Let the rpms get up to a higher level before kicking out the clutch pads which might give it better take off. If first is really loose it'll be a dog until you get moving.Properly setup carb in the low circuits.
That just means you have more new fluid in there to burn, what Don meant was to change the crank seal behind the clutch so the atf can't work it's way past, into the engine and burn/smoke out.