Results 1–30 of 459
when you say "spin the engine backwards" do you mean you have to spin the vario backwards with your hand a couple times before you can pedal it? I've had the same problem with my vespa, it just means your compression is a little high. Does you bike have a decomp? if so, are you using it right? if it doesn't have one it's probably not a bad idea to get a head that has a dec
stock grandes in the states were all 12mm, but if someone has done modification to your bike before you it is possible that you've got a european engine, or a 10mm crank. So, remove your engine, remove your cylinder, remove your wrist pin, and measure the outside diameter of your wrist pin.
I want to make sure I've got these in right. They are sitting down in their little groove and don't seem like they could pop out, but i want to be safe. So, will this orientation be acceptable? the open end of the clip is facing the crankcase.
I found this hardwired diagram in the wiki, it's for a pa50 with a CDI. I dont know if it actually works, but if it does, shouldn't my no battery set up work too?
Okay, if I wire the battery back in, will this set up work? I checked out my switches and cleaned them a short while ago, but I guess that could be it. I cant really find the cause of one specific problem on the bike, because the wiring is a mess and there are lots of problems.
anybody got any other advise? I'm going to wire the battery back in this weekend to see if that fixes the problems, unless someone has a reason not to.
which bolts are we talking about? the ones that fasten the intake to the engine? if so, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU EXTRACT THEM, otherwise you will be in for a lot of work and a lot of alumaweld. I guess you could try cutting the heads off the screws, then pull the carb/intake off the engine. If the screws were threaded all the way up, then you can double nut those things out of there. If that'
Could I possible just install a voltage regulator were the battery was? I left the fuse, in hopes that it would blow before my lights and so far this has worked. I have not blown out the tail light or the headlight or the fuse. Since I've owned the bike it has only had high beam, as the low beam is burnt out, and if I tried to run the bike with the headlight switched to low beam it would blow
Try cleaning your carburetor and then tune in your idle. Here's a page on how to do that. After you do that, try testing for air leaks. If cleaning your carburetor solves the problem, then I'd recommend getting a new inline fuel filter and some new fuel line.
I have a 1982 Pa50II, with a CDI. The turn signals and battery have been removed, but I'm not sure if I did it right and I currently cant get any power to my taillight. I found this wiring diagram for an '81 pa50 with CDI, turn signals, and battery.Then I edited it with MS paint, to have no turn signals or battery.(if the pictures aren't clear enough you can right click on them, th
I remember seeing pics of this build a while back. can't wait to see it done!
Yeah, I think I'm going to buy a new cam and points. I'm hoping this time I'll get points that are a little closer to the stock ones. Here's some pictures of the points. You can see that on the new points the two little parts (I think they're called contacts, but I don't know) that touch don't sit flush with each other. I can probably just smooth them with my po
These are the points I ordered from treats, but the ones I got look a little different from the points in the picture on treats, and the ones I got are slightly different compared to the ones that came on my grande, and the points in the picture on treats are different from the ones that came on my grande. Well I installed them anyway and I can not get them to open at 20 degrees BTDC. At their wid
I'm worried that it's not the rubbing block on the points that's the problem. I think it may be my cam, It looks like (to me at least) at twenty degrees BTDC the highest point on the cam has already passed the follower/rubbing block thing, making it impossible for me to set it so that the points start to open at 20 degrees BTDC. I took a couple pics, but i'm not sure if they a
Chris, How did you set your points to 19degrees BTDC? like what gap did you set them at?
I set The points to .014", then checked it with a timing wheel, it's opening at about 90 degrees BTDC. Could someone please tell what they gap their points at?
well shit. yeah, my woodruff key is fine. So the manual says to set the gap at .o16" and It says that the spark advance should be 19 degrees BTDC, it is impossible for me to do both. Should I gap the points so that they will open at 19 BTDC, or should I gap the points so that they are .016" at TDC?
So I've searched and searched and I can't find any info on how to set the spark advance on a vespa. It almost seems like there is no way to adjust the timing, only the points gap. The manual says the points should open at 19 degrees BTDC, but I lined it up and then removed my flywheel and it looks like at 19 degrees BTDC the highest part of the cam has already passed the fouler. does thi
Looks pretty cool. I think one of your tires might be on backwards?
okay, so I've confirmed that there are no air leaks, I put in a slightly larger jet (not sure exactly how much larger, because it's a mikuni jet and the numbers dont match up with dellorto), I put in an unused b6hs, and the bike is running better already! I'm about to go try a B8HS for a short ride. I plan on ordering some dellorto jets and I'm going to drop the engine and set
soooooooooo, this orientation is fine then, right?
super fantastic! it's down in the little groove and sure isn't getting out of there on its own. I didn't think the direction mattered much, but I've read so many horror stories about clips "snagging" or popping out and wrecking up engines, so I wanted to be extra safe. Thank you!
Replaced the piston on my hobbit, just want to make sure before I try to run it. thanks!
maybe its the camera angle, but it looks like that thing is mostly just going to shine on you fender. maybe make it a little longer?
That plug is crusty and has some flaky metallic stuff built up all over it. The ceramic is a brownish color, but the metal surfaces are gray/white. If this is a timing issue, would it be that my timing is too advanced?I don't think that there is an air leak problem, but I wasn't using a head gasket as it didn't have one stock and the kit didn't come with one. I asked benji if a
I was using it my hobbit, but not for very long, then I cleaned it really well with one of these . It looked pretty much like new when I put it in and like I said, I only went about two miles and that's what the plug looked like after. I need to get some new spark plugs, but I want to know what type I should get. I thought B6HS would be best, because the stock set up ran great with a B5HS and
I had my headlight mounted lower for a while, until the bracket i made broke. the bracket attached to the tab for the horn and I had just enough room for the key. If you find a way to lower it that looks really cool, but doesn't leave room for the key, then relocate the key to the top of the headlight housing. Shouldn't be too hard to drill a new hole and cover the old one. I think the t
I have a 1980 Vespa grande with an olympia 43mm kit, 13.13 SHA, and a malossi high flow filter. I've put about twenty miles on the kit and it's not running as well as it was when I first installed it. I put in an NGK B6HS rode about two miles and it started backfiring and the acceleration isn't as peppy as it was before. Here's some pictures of the plug.Based on this guide , I
the carb is clean clean clean and same for the filter. The plug was a bit carbony, so I tried a new one and it made no difference, then I cleaned the old one real good and gaped correctly. I also put in new points today, which I doubt were the source of the problem, but hey i had new ones so why not put them in. I started up the bike a few minutes ago and it ran for maybe one minute before it back
That's smart thinking, but I found the spark issue was caused by a wire being broken off down inside the housing. I now have strong spark, but I still cant get the bike running properly. It starts and runs up to about ten miles an hour, but then it starts to cut out and if you continue to give it throttle it dies, like if you put on the choke while ridding. I'm using a thirteen thirteen