Results 1–30 of 177
SAE30 forever! Slip doesn't change much when it heats up, unlike ATF.
This is cool shit. I use Arduino's in my multicopters.Mars, why not use a smaller Arduino, such as the Nano? It's cheap.
Thread a long screw into it and pull it out. I think there is a how to in the phbg tuning wiki.
Help us understand, you removed the rubber tip on the float pin??? If so, you need a new one now.
It doesn't burn cooler. It delays the flame front by making it ignite slower. A difference in temp would be the result of less/no detonation.
18x45 gearing should be fine. I run 20x42 on my kstar and hit 54mph on the flat, going up hills is no problem either. It's all in your carb and clutch tuning.Wayne, most of the people here seem like they are college kids with no cars and little to no previous expirence with internal combustion engines. The people that understand your knowledge value it, fuck the naysayers.
I got a parmakit head from a friend that was pitted from exploding his rings. I turned the pits out on a lathe by mounting the head in the chuck with a piston stop. Wouldn't work on a stock head since it's not a hemi plug design. It worked great though!
I've been looking for a Westach gauge just like that. Let us know how it works! We use thermocouples at work in our furnaces and kiln, they respond to changes very quickly!
Fyi, there is 0 vacuum at WOT. Vacuum increases as the throttle is shut and maxes out at idle.Nothing wrong with going WOT from a dead stop if your bike is tuned. I couldn't blow my motor up and believe me you think it would have a long time ago with that mentality.
I too have a trail tech temp gauge. The temps go up and down very quickly afterall the head and cylinder are directly air cooled. Any other method which is not on the fly is not an accurate reading IMO. These gauges are as close at you can get while still being reasonably priced. Best tuning tool ever, never seized a kit.
The best setup for your carb would probably be a 78-80 jet, W7 Needle, and a maybe a 40 slide. Turn the idle mix screw (small brass flathead screw) in all the way and back it out 2 turns. Use the choke unless you like pedaling like crazy. Move the needle to the second from bottom notch like TJ said and see if it runs better as it is. No air leaks right?
SAE30 for life. Works way better than ATF and doesn't change much when it's warmed up.
Well the shimming will be easier, if I even have to. I have a rito crank in my other E50 and I had to shim the clutch which can be a pain in the ass. I'll try it out and save $60 bucks on the crank.
I have an E50 that I just picked up with the infamous bushing failure do to a kit and no crank. The crank is now bent slightly so I'm tossing it. However, in effort to save some cash, has anyone had any problems running a stock crank with an aftermarket needle bearing connecting rod? I work in a machine shop and have access to all the presses we have so doing it myself is not a problem. My on
The only difference between v1 and v2 pistons is the pin placemet for the ring is it not? I think the V1 put the ring gap near or in a port window, the V2 keeps it away from any port window.The piston should slide side to side on the wrist pin, the cylinder keeps it centered when installed. It should not however, angle when rotated left and right on it's horizontal axis. This would indicate b
You can match the transfers to the cylinder, though the transfers can only flow as much as the openings in the cylinder wall, a bottleneck if you will.Go to town on the exhaust port to match it to the header, you could also widen the exhaust port to flow better and raise it 1mm to slightly increase the exhaust duration.For the intake, match it as best you can. You can also widen it to flow more. I
From Crazy Waynes profile...."Plug chips a colder plug to show color faster then a hotter plug and you chop it so it has more red than tan in the color and it will be close to 2 jet sizes rich. http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.htmlNow go one plug hotter and your plug will read/be leaner, and safe, if the plug is not to hot for the compression and or peak RPM power.I like
If one knows how to ride, mirrors are not required.
I ordered an axle from him and it took forever for me to get it! So long I had to inquire about it. He said he ordered it from the manufacture and would send it to me when he got it, wtf? If you don't stock it, how can you reliably sell it?
Doug, bring just enough premix oil to fill your tank one time.I was wondering where we could park the car and trailer, perfect. I can't wait, I'm super stoked.
The gearing calculator is useless when your clutch slips. You want the pipe to hit when it's near peak power. If you top out at 9k then a pipe that hits around 5-7k and pulls through till you peak would be ideal.There are many variables that come into play here. Your carb size, any porting?, type/shape of the expansion chamber, head shape, squish size and design, etc...Back to the clutch, you
I'm with Baldman about your jet. I have the same kit with porting mods and a big expansion chamber. I run an 80 jet in my 19mm phbg. Dump that ATF out of the case and run SAE30 oil. With ATF I noticed that when the motor heats up, the clucth becomes a different animal. With 30 oil its the same no matter the temp for the most part.
I can tell the difference between 87 and 93 in my car (turbo). I tried 89 and there is really no difference between 89 and 93 other than it's $.10 cheaper, 87 on the other hand.....In my moped, I can't run 87 without pinging in the top end. I run 93 but on my last can fill i put 89. Going to test it out and see how it goes.Just an FYI, I used to work at a gas station, 89 is actually 87 a
I use one slightly larger than the one on the left in the link weedy posted. I also use a carbide bit thats similar but the same OD as the shaft. I find the bigger barrel bit easier to work with, and it cuts aluminum very fast.
The Subaru 360 was a two stroke.Ricky, I drilled and countersunk two holes in my piston where they would travel between the ports. No problems, can't tell if it works, but it's better than not having them.I also drilled holes in the bottom of the piston to feed oil to the wrist pin. I noticed some pistons have the holes, while others do not.
Looks like that is how the ignition coil works? That has to make a decent amount of power to make a good spark.
Do you still have the 88 jet in your 16mm carb? Holy crap. I run an 80 jet in my 19mm race carb on my 70cc kstar. Have you tried a smaller jet? IIRC when I had a 16mm sha I had a 72? jet in it.Remember liquid gasoline does not burn. Gasoline vapors and mist will burn. You could be choking the spark with fuel, just a thought.....I also converted back to points from CDI. Easier to tune maintain and
I lost my aluminum foot peg, pretty obvious looking thing. It fell off at some point when we were riding and i turned around to look for it but didnt see it anywhere. Anyone see it come off my bike and scoop it up?
What is saturdays details?