Results 1–30 of 37
I have not checked my variator internals but I am doubting that is the issue. Even at low RPM's disengaging the choke makes it pick up right away, but then starts to die after that until i choke it. I don't think that it would be the variator if it's happening both at low and high RPM's.I did check the filter earlier today, and, surprise, there isn't even a filter in the
Interesting. Convenient, though-- I have a pile of L86C plugs lying around because it's what my motorized bicycle motor uses. I just swapped them out. Thanks for the tip here; I would have just assumed the old plug was right otherwise.FYI, it didnt solve my speed issue. :)
I cleaned the crap out of it when I rebuilt it, and then rebuilt it again when it wouldn't run (for a different reason) just to be sure, so I'm pretty confident that the carb internals are not the problem.I also had cleaned out the rust in my gas tank (there was a lot, which is why i had to clean the carb so well) and in the process, I cleaned the screen and everything really good, so I
And for some reason, when it dies, a bunch of gas leaks out of the carb...
79 PA50II, I bought it non-running and fixed it up. The guy who sold it to me had put in a brand-new Champion J8C plug (is this right?).I cleaned the living crap out of the carburetor. It runs now, but I'm having trouble tuning the carb. I can get it started from cold by choking it, and i can ride it around while choked and get up to about 20mph, maybe a bit less.Whether it's warm or
Trying to restore a 79 hobbit that I got in non-running condition.It has good spark. Brand-new plug, Champion j8c (is this right? Came with it when I bought it)I rebuilt the carb, and took my time to make sure I did it right.I can't seem to get it started, or to even turn over. I suspect no gas is making it into the engine. I pulled the fuel line off and verified that fuel was making it t
So, to follow up, I filled the bowl with vinegar for about 3 or 4 hours, and then rinsed it out good. This broke up the rust chunks quite a bit, and made it easy for me to wipe the rest of the rust out with shop towels and cue tips.Washed the vinegar out with soapy water, and then sprayed it down with WD-40 to prevent any rusting (although it's aluminum, so probably wasn't necessary. :)
I'm working on getting an old hobbit running; the guy said it hadn't been run in a year or two.Took apart the carb. The bowl (which still had really old gas in it) is caked with rust. The gas tank has rust in it, so I imagine the bike was run this way and the rust made its way into the carb bowl, and settled at the bottom. I was able to scrape off the majority of it, but there's
does it four stroke when it starts to top out? you may be running too rich.
It's leaked out of the petcock itself on my motorized bicycle's petcock when ti was closed. It can also leak out of the carb end of the fuel line if you leave it open.Depending on where your petcock is in relation to the carb, it can get tricky because if it's coming out the knob of the petcock, it might dribble down the side of the gas line and fall off at the carb, making it look
Oh, sure. If these things are still on the road after decades, I'm sure the design is solid-- not going to mess with something that's not broken. Just seems odd, that's all.Thanks for all the help with this, I wouldn't have figured it out myself and probably would have glued the thing shut, figuring it was supposed to be a closed system like in an outboard.
That's awesome. Nothing to settle down your excitement for a UPS delivery like a big pile of smelly grease everywhere. My workbench is pretty greasy right now from this thing. Is SAE 90 the right thing to top it off with?Is this vent hole just a PA50 thing? This all seems like a pretty poor design choice. Most of my exposure to transmissions have been with outboards, so maybe I'm
That's the answer I was hoping to hear. :)
I'm not sure if "gearcase" is the right term.I took off the rear wheel of my PA50II and noticed that it seems to be oozing gearcase lube (looks/smells like SAE90) from the bearings, and a screw hole.Here is a picture. You can see the screw hole I am talking about at the 7:00 position.When I move it around, I can hear lube slowly sloshing around in there.Should I be worried about th
I have a PA50 that does not have the decompression lever or cable intact on it. Is this something I'm going to have to fix in order to get the thing to run?I've got experience working on 2-stroke stuff other than mopeds, but I've never seen one of these.
Hey,79 pa50ii, i got it without a throttle cable, and I'm trying to hook the cable up to the carb. When I open the throttle, and then close it again, the throttle arm on the carb doesn't spring back. I think I might have it connected wrong. Can someone with a working one snap a quick picture?
I've taken a closer look at the pivot point and I don't see any obvious way to adjust it/take it apart. Can you elaborate?
Here is a picture of it, disassembled.Basically, the arm isnt pushed forward enough when I put that cylindrical nut as far down that thread as I can.
Sure, I'll get a pic tomorrow.
Not working for me either.
Yeah, that's how I have mine set up.
So I have a 79 pa50ii that im restoring.The rear wheel spins freely when you pull the brake cable. I took it apart, cleaned up the drum and everything. Brakes look decent enough for rear brakes (I'm replacing the front ones just to be safe).The rear brake cable looks to be in good condition, probably was replaced at some point, because the other cables are in way worse condition.But the iss
I got a mountain bike brake cable for my throttle. The knarp was indeed bigger than the one I took out of the throttle. However, it just barely fit. I'm not sure you could count on it always fitting, because it was a tight fit-- but I'm sure you could just sand it down if it was a problem.
I've searched for this but not found it.Rear brakes weren't really working, so I took my rear wheel off and managed to get the sprocket off using a hammer and an adjustable wrench. I took off the brake drum. This gives me access to the bearings on the right. Right now I have the axle stuck into the enclosure with that wheel the variator turns (sorry, not up to speed on the terminology
Awesome, thanks to both of you, this is good news!
I recently got a beat up Hobbit that I need to get running. All of the cables need to be addressed.The throttle cable housing is still there but I need a new cable for it. Is this something a bike shop would have? Is it the same as a normal brake cable? I haven't taken apart the throttle control yet so I'm not sure what the connector looks like.The front brake cable and housing is co
I got a beat up old 79 hobbit off of craigslist that I'm planning to restore; first step was to fix the front wheel which was nearly locked up. Turns out that was due to the bearings, but in the process the brake pads fell off inside the drum.I need to reattach them to the drum... what kind of glue do you guys recommend? Also, the pads aren't unusable (I think, I guess I don't rea
Just got a 79 honda pa50ii, and I'm looking for the serial/vin on the engine so I can get it titled. I found it on the frame but I couldn't seem to find it anywhere on the engine. Anybody know where this is located on the engine?
I have one. I use it frequently for commuting and it has well over a thousand miles on it, and no sign of stopping. If you take care when building it and swap out a few key stock parts with better parts, these kits can be pretty reliable. Legality varies from state to state, but at least in Wisconsin you have the perk that you don't have to register it or insure it.I vote "cool".
Yeah, I'm kind of surprised too. I'll probably put that money toward my current moped project. At least for that kind of bidding I can be sure it will go to someone who will appreciate it, lol.