Results 1–30 of 193
thanks, i'll try those. sometimes i overthink it.
any time a v1 clutch cover needs to be removed so does the clutch cable. reconnecting it means a lot of messing around with frayed cable or replacing the cable. i get in there often enough this is getting old.has anyone come across a decent quick release / reconnect mod for the cable connection to the clutch lever? anything i come up with would get awkward at the anchor point. maybe that's un
aw heck, you win. I'm selling my bikes and taking up cross stitching.
stock intake, so that shouldn't be a problem. i wasn't sure if there would be enough space without having the tank in front of me to check. thanks willd.
has anyone put a hobbit tank on their pinto? i'm not really worried about how it will look, i'm just wondering what anyone's problems and solutions were. thanks.
I'm thinking the temp drop might have caused condensation. It had less than half a tank for a while too. And yeah, since that gunk actually was a decent sealer / lube I wondered if it was supposed to be there, except that it was fully plugging.Thanks again, Rebel. I'd buy your book if you wrote one.
@ pacer: I was actually wondering why there wasn't one when I took it apart. Brand new OMG, maybe a month old. It wouldn't hurt to buy a fuel injector o-ring to put in there.
@ Patrick: yep. That's not where it leaks though, it's out the side. I hear there's some gunk in a yellow tube I can use to fix the leak.I was just thinking, I had it stored in my heated garage, then ran it about 3 miles in maybe 45 degree weather, then parked it outside for two hours as it dropped to maybe 35. when I tried to start it the cylinder was jammed like it was seized. Aft
I see what you're saying, but no sealer has been used, only wd40 and moped mix have been in there, aside from rust. As for pics, I don't think it will show anything. Everything looks normal at this point, except that it dumps out the side where the switch goes into the body of the petcock when in the on position. All the white gunk is cleared off and thrown out.I've had old petcocks
I have a rusty pinto tank. The only fluids that have been in there are moped gas and some wd40 during the basic cleaning process. I put a new omg petcock on it, no problems.There is still some sludge going on so I removed the petcock to clean off its filter. It was still plugged inside so I opened it up, and that's when things started getting weird. The entire petcock was gummed with a crumbl
i have an otherwise stock v1 with a 15:15 sha, 14 puch intake, and a cheepo puch boss (fuego). runs real nice, way better than the same pipe on my puch. i'm sure there are a lot of good options, though.
yeah, i often have a hard time finding something if it isn't where i expect it to be. maybe i'll learn someday, but until then i'll search the whole garage for the wrench that's sitting just on the other side of my bike.
so, i just found this, not listed with minarelli compatible cranks, but lo and behold.
they're already sold out of the minarelli bearing type. the back story is all i actually need is the big end needle bearing, but that's sold out too. whisler bearing doesn't carry them. here's my plan though: i'm going to swipe the bearing crank from my friend's shelved v1 and put the brass crank in back in it. he ain't usin' it anyway.
thanks y'all. absolutely, Ryan, bearing is what i prefer. i couldn't get ahold of a bearing crank, so i was hoping to convert the available brass one to bearing.i want to put a needle bearing in this one.just fishing for advice on the process. i guess i can just compare the diameters of the old and new small ends, then try to knock the brass out. if not, screw it, i'll ride brass.
I'm not getting clear info from the search... I'm replacing a busted minarelli v1 crank. The old one has the small end needle bearing, the new one is brass bushing. Can I just remove the brass bushing in the small end of the con rod and put in a needle bearing, or will there be issues that? Would I be better off leaving it alone? Just a stock bike, so no extra kit strain.
true evan. so i titled the post "almost a moped".
mostly honda supercubs in cozumel, but i saw this kickstart zanetti. just posting for anyone who might give a shit.
Daniel '' Wrote:-------------------------------------------------------> º Chad† Wrote:> --------------------------------------------------> -----> > What pipe is on that bat swap?>>> Looks kinda like the cheap guy simonini pipe.that's the exact pipe i'm running now. i got it for $15 cheap. vintage simonini, much like the underbody. strong low-mid pipe,
"grom / newb / noob" would be applied where one may be more concerned with posturing for social acceptance than their moped experience warrants, whereas "moped aspergers" would apply to the moped obsessed who have the social skills of an armpit. there are amazing people in this community who would be moped aspergian while being miles away from grom. come to think of it, armpit
Adding Phil Keaggy and Frank Zappa to the list. A guitarist can showboat, but if there's no heart, it's worthless.
that got it, just needed different tapping.
I used large sockets over the shafts to try to seat the races better, but i'd like to try the alternate; drill a hole in some wood and brace the case against it while I tap the shafts. if that doesn't get it, i'll remove the washer since the euro case didn't have one.
i'm putting euro cases (originally unvariated) on my stock variated crank. my variated crank used a washer between the large bearing and the case, so I put it in the new one. the bearings are good as new. when I tighten everything down the crank won't spin smoothly through about half the rotation, but when I loosen two or three bolts on the top half it spins smooth again.so i'm thin
of course disc brakes are best, but expensive overkill for many riders. new brakes never hurt either.i just keep it quick & cheap. with use, the brake pads get glazed. i just scuff the glaze off with a fine file perpendicular across the pad, then wipe off the dust with a dry cloth (or blow it out with compressed air if you don't care about your lungs). also wipe any dust out of the hub. a
i had excellent results with a 15 sha + 15 shorty intake, 68 jet at a mile high, stock otherwise. hits 39 mph, strong the whole way through.
i cut the remaining damper in half so i have half under each side. variation doesn't feel much different, but it definitely solved a vibration that was hindering my top speed (and maybe variates a hair farther, maybe not). +3 to 4 mph in this case. gps & speedo aren't working, so it's a guess.
i've been told it will fully variate with the dampers in. i'll gps before and with each different set up i try. (i'm not planning on grinding the weights lighter yet, btw.) it might take me a week or two before i get time for this though.my guess is it'll only variate sooner. at the very least, it'll balance the variator.
it slows the variation, which i don't mind, but it seems to prevent full variation as well. the part of the arm that touches the rubber has a u-shaped cross section instead of o-shaped, so it stops when the flat part hits the rubber.so i get to decide if i want to remove it for full variation, or cut it in half and make both sides even. or something else.
thanks for the info! it's good to know the starting point. this gives me some ideas...