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I've got one. Sending you a PM.
The one with the friction material or the other one?
I may have one, I'll have to check when I get home. Send me a PM.
Set your timing to 18* on a ZA.
I've got a motobecane that has a rust seized crank and crank bearings. I'm looking for one of the following 3 options, shipped to California. Shoot me a PM.A. Decent bottom end.B. Complete motor.C. Decent used crankshaft
I really like my Chatterbox X2 slim. It uses VHF so your bike-to-bike range is a lot larger and you don't have any issues "pairing" to your friends like my old Sena unit did. The chatterbox is also a PTT (push to talk) system so it's a lot like a walkie talkie.
That's correct. There is no expiration date.
He's out of the state right now. He also has a newborn so things are hectic.
I dropped the tank and seat down some. I also think I would like it better when it's off the tall center stand. Just my opinion and a quick mockup.
Would still love to see video of this thing running...
Wanted for research purposes. Shipped to Southern California.
I need to hear this run with the new motor setup!
Here's a little video about the model of quad this motor comes out of.
You did a spacer between the clutch hub and the jammer starter plate? Was the puch starter plate bottoming out in the clutch bell slots?
Go to a 37t in the rear. ZAs have good torque and can pull it. Also, you can reuse your chain (may have to shorten it).If you go to a 19 in the front you may have to grind your engine case a little and you may need a longer chain.
Is your intake going to hit the frame when the shock compresses? Try to sit/bounce on it and see what it looks like?
This was painful to read through.
B8HS is a good plug. Jetting around 170 BUT you have to be certain that you don't have any air leaks. Best way to check is a leakdown test.What did you gap your ring to?Have you tried doing a piston drop test (with the intake bolted on but no piston ring) to see if it's rubbing on the cylinder anywhere? Check out this thread:https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2681917Here's
Kind of an old video but it might help...
I did a swap from a 1980-1982 air cooled CR80. The initial hope was to do a transmission and top end swap into the MB5 cases but the transfers and skirt diameter wasn't going to work out. I cut the cradle off the CR80 and grafted it to the MB5 frame. Used a combination of the MB5 and CR80 ignition parts to get lights and spark. Hand built an exhaust. It was stupid fast but not super reliable.
For the people wanting the link to other chain drive hobbit stuff:https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS848US848&biw=1920&bih=1007&sxsrf=ACYBGNQkrt9rCG8rK0wYMx5-oavDcdZ_oA%3A1581970903041&ei=1_VKXtCOAovL-gSZwZKwDQ&q=chain+drive+hobbit+site%3Awww.mopedarmy.com&oq=chain+drive+hobbit+site%3Awww.mopedarmy.com&gs_l=psy-ab.3...144802.144802..146459...0.0..0.69.137.2..
I probably have both. Shoot me an email/PM.
Wow, bump from the past, huh?I welded a piece of steel tubing to the frame near the head tube. The bottom just uses a hose clamp around the frame like the freespirit came from the factory with.
All your vertical edges (internal and external) should have fillets. 1/8" minimum radius would work well. This will allow 3D printers, machine shops, and laser cutters to make this part much easier.
The other option is to do a clutchless ER3 and run a belt that is a little bit too long so that it slips at idle. Might burn up belts a little bit faster though.
You can do a "clutch" ER3.https://www.treatland.tv/peugeot-doppler-variator-ER3-p/103-doppler-variator-292517.htm