Results 1–30 of 245
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Bump again to see what else everyone is doing for pump if going liquid-cooled. I'm slow building an A35 case, Parmakit 77cc with an 83cc stroke (stock Tomos). Just need to raise deck height about .260" to match conn rod length... Oh, and gringo ALOT! Haven't researched pumps or radiator so watching this thread...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
He was from Alaska. I bought two and think they're great. I commented on another thread about dirty rims a while back and the guy sent me an email thanking. He's still around... Great product... Handmade and Costco, but worth it if you don't like oily rear wheels!
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Seat with post... Shipped to 46703?
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Pm sent...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Mo Peds Wrote:-------------------------------------------------------> Anyone that wants to buy some of the heavy and> light ss spring for there tomos; drop me a email,> Not a PM.What's your email? You can PM it to me if you don't want to broadcast...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
... my Tomos is the noisiest ped in the club... scared me at first as I thought I screwed something up on reassembly. I'm used to it now and am approaching 1000 miles on the kit/rebuild. Like I said earlier, my mix right now is damn near perfect, holds high in 1st and downshifts properly. It might be the combination of the viscosities, not sure.
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
... I've heard of milking a snake, but what do you have to do to it to get it's oil...??
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
theoretically anyway: grooving on a diagonal allows fluid to sling out permitting a more positive hook-up rather than a "slide in" hook-up. I only groove the second gear clutch so the timing of the shift is shortened. It's the same theory as tire tread allowing water to sling out permitting a more positive hook-up to the road surface.Pertaining to the SS springs: I'll keep
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
... any further word on the SS springs being fabbed. I'd be down for about a dozen...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Mine reads "---" at initial turnon, then numbers at about 100 degrees. It usually goes up to 380 or so until temperatures stabilize and then reads in the high 200-low 300's. It hit 500+ several times when I first fired-up the kit and, sure enough, it seized and smeared the piston over the rings. I trust mine, but it does blank out occasionally and I find myself staring at it too
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
The nut I have was machined with a seat for the seal... pretty class item, but cost $20 I think. I'd buy another though. Are you not running a side cover? There's a partition betwqeen the gear and the mag that keeps the gear stuff off the electronics.
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Ahhhh... as seen by my log-in.... I finally got it to take. Probably my error, but no action required. Thanks...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Okay, when I re-signed in after the change, I entered my "real" name instead of my screen name. How can I change back to my previously-used name: "Dick Tortuga"? Everything else in profile seems to be working fine...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Yeah, I chicken out, but it may go a little longer in 1st if I tried. Shifting at 8000 is about optimum for my weight and gearing IF I'M ripping. I normally "manual" shift at about 5-6 depending on terrain. Severe hills have been a bitch for me though. "A" mountain in Tucson is slow, slow for this bike and me. Could be my weight, maybe the gearing, seems like it would
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
28 front gear... tach is a Trail Tech hooked to coil. I'm a big guy (290) and I am REAL happy with my Tomos. Airsal, Top crank, needle bearing, 20mm Mikuni, unrestricted Estoril, HPI CDI... I GPS'd when I first had it running and got to 46. I've broken in and tuned since then. I figure I'm over 50, but really need to hook up speedo sensor and run with GPS again. Top RPM is
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
I, like most builders, have been playing with the clutch material and fluid. I currently have a perfect running clutch for my desires, but I'm not sure why or how long it will last. I should take it out and measure everything so I can duplicate. here's the build:thoroughly cleaned and balanced A35 shoes. lightly lateral grooved shoes BEFORE pads for improved adhesion. NAPA rubberize
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
I'm currently using NAPA rubberized cork. Exact thickness and easy to work with and bond. What exactly do the various materials do, ie: last longer, grip harder, slip then grip, lower RPM engage, higher RPM engage...? Just curious before I start experimenting further. With the NAPA rubberized cork, first and second clutches, one diagonal groove on second, first engages with a slight slip
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
My "hot rod" has an A3 case. Top end is no problem as described in the Wiki. You will run into some snags on the bottom end, though. If you change to an A35 crank, you will need to change the clutch pack and the right side outer case cover. Also, if you add the HPI CDI for A35s, then you have to do some modification to get the base plate to seat . Just for your info...
Dick Tortuga — 11 years ago
Had almost the identical situation with my Airsal Tomos. It's the timing... I'm currently running 1.4mm BTDC and dropping to 1.2 which corresponds to the degree that most hard cores recommend.
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
http://www.scooter-center.com/scoweb/pages/advanced_search_overview.grid?category1=A&category2=CAT&searchMethod=doSingleSearch&target=advancedSearch&sortOrder=overview__no_sort&pageSize=10&keywords=Cylinder%20PARMAKIT%2070cc%20Race%20one%20Minarelli%20AC%20%28horizontal%20Cylinder%2C%20%C3%98%3D12mm%20gudgeon%20pin%29This is where I got my LC kit...
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
Retarding the timing helped my temp the most. Not sure of degrees, but when I originally set my HPI, instructions said 2-4mm BTDC, so I went with 2mm. After several miles and some high temps, I ended up seizing. When I re-set it up, I read wiki more and went with to 1.4mm... damn near instant cure. running a lot cooler and actually seems smoother, too... idles better. May drop it to 1.3 or 1.
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
oh, yea, forgot to mention bits. McMaster-Carr has a huge selection of carbide single and double-cut bits in various shapes and lengths. The single cuts work best for me in aluminum as they don't clog AS OFTEN. I went all out a couple years ago and bought the multi=piece selection in the neat walnut box. Drilled some extra holes in the box and keep ALL my bits there...
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
I use a Roto Zip with a flexible shaft extension. Very controllable as it is electric so you can vary speed consistantly. Big improvement over Dremel. Still need a lot of mano y mano, though. For polishing I use various grades steel wool and I have a small diameter shaft with a slot in the end like a sewing needle. I stick the end of a piece of sandpaper in the slot and wrap it around the sha
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
... as far as kits, I'd try 1977's new kit for $79... for real!
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
... interested...
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
aw, Clayy, I didn't ignore you. I've been busy on a bathroom remodel and just hadn't responded to everything. Anyways, I'm a REVERSE snowbird... I live in Arizona and go to Indiana for the summer. I'm leaving April 15 so won't be able to take advantage of your knowledge or your YIG offer. I have been watching your occasional posts with the mystery (airplane?) wate
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
Sorry... Forgot to post link to the kit:http://www.scooter-center.com:80/scoweb/pages/productdetail.grid?product=306358590364259&target=productdetail&category1=A&category2=CAT
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
No, shit, its gettin' real! Here's a link to the top end I got. Note it's got 43mm stroke, same as Tomos. I'm sticking with A35 cases because I'm using an A35 racing crank which means you have to use an A35 right side transmission case. I've used A35 side cases on A3 motors, but they have different pins for alignment and, since the side case aligns the crank end b
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
Thanks Seth. I am a 64 year-old retired engineer from Raytheon Missile Systems. I love to tinker. Being retired, and with the past 5 years economic downturn, my savings have dwindled. Mopeds are something I can still "play with" on a budget. I've acquired the parts for a water cooled, case inducted, 4-petal reed block Tomos A35 motor and I have some first gear clutch ideas I�
Dick Tortuga — 12 years ago
Hah... you're with me. I already have a Parmakit LC cylinder kit in the mail. Same stroke as the A35, 77cc, multiple transfers. Part of that case indent opens to the transmission, I believe, so I could use the whole indent as a mount, but only open the forward part. I don't have a split case right now so I'm going from memory. Just wanted to see if anyone else has done it. I s