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Greetings from Bloomington, Dave. Very sorry to hear about your illness, but lots of respect to you for sticking with mopeds since the beginning. I'll spread the word about the shop being up for sale.
Here you go nerdsRuffians Rally 2017 on Imgur
Good ideas guys. I suspect crank seal is the hardest to check for sure.Already checked for air leaks and there appear to be none. I'll swap a different belt on tonight and check the brakes/wheels.
What's wrong with my Hobbit? Used to do 30-35 mph all day, suddenly started topping out at 15 mph, and low-end power is gone.Near-stock '78 PA50I -> PA50II conversion ('II' jug, intake, carb, ramp plate). Only other modifications are air filter, MLM sidebleed, 1.5k Dio springs, and drilled-out 'II' rollers, all of which it ran just fine with previously. Timing is s
I have a Scion tC myself and a class I tow hitch + rear carrier works just fine, at least if you carry one moped at a time.
Guys, it's not a jetting issue. I rejetted the carb when I did the subframe swap in February and it ran without issue for two months following that. Plug looks fine. It doesn't rev with any amount of choke engaged. The carb is not that finicky, and in fact I went about a year without cleaning the carb and just running an inline fuel filter and it was fine, high 30s all day.Any other thou
I'd like to get everyone's opinion on this problem with my Hobbit, because this has been driving me crazy for several weeks now.This is my PA50I -> near-stock PA50II conversion that’s been running almost flawlessly for the past two years since I originally got it together. The only things I’ve changed in the past six months or so are a subframe swap (therefore deleting the stock airbo
> I mean 7hp seems like a lot of power to only be able to hit 40 with, a tomos with a pipe can do 40 and that's what 3 maybe 4 HP?I suspect it is electronically limited to 40 mph for efficiency's sake. You could probably drive the motor and controller faster but at that point you'd really kill the range and probably shorten the life of the electronics.And/or maybe it's just
http://www.boltmotorbikes.comSeems interesting.Upsides:- 40 mph / 7 hp ain't half-bad- Street legal—in economy mode. Although let's not kid ourselves, it's probably trivial to switch...('oh no officer can't you see I'm in economy mode?').- True to the moped form. Even has a 415 drive chain + bike pedal chain like a Puch. Practically looks like a direct electric c
I use 1.5k Dio springs on my Hobbit w/ stock cylinder and found it to offer somewhat better acceleration off the line. If you have a kitted bike then the 1k springs are probably better.
Turns out you're right, I just had to find the part number (22120-148-700). Thanks.
Have you upgraded your kitted Hobbit to PA50I weights (or a TJT variator) and don't need your PA50II weights anymore? Listen up!Seeking a set of 3 stock Honda Hobbit PA50II variator weights (15x16). If you've drilled them out a bit that's fine too. Anywhere between 9.5g to 14g is cool with me.
A friend of mine recently picked up a '78 Honda Express and for the most part it rides fine; in the last day or two it's started stalling (or nearly so) after riding just a couple minutes. If you stop and let it idle for 10-20 seconds you can continue riding for another few minutes until it stalls again.We've cleaned the carb, changed the spark plug, checked that fuel is flowing ste
Would love to pick up at WB7
WTB Puch Magnum seat. Fair-to-good condition preferred.
I say cut off the whole engine mount off the frame, and weld it up to some kind of old noped frame.A Honda Express powered by an SR50 engine/transmission would fucking rule.
Bumping this thread because I'm considering snapping one up myself.
Does anyone know of a non-permanent crossbar made for (or just compatible with) a Puch tube frame? All the bolt-in ones I see around—like the ones from EBR—seem to be made for Maxis or some other moped.
My Scion tC's rear seats fold down; easy to lay down a moped in the back, no disassembly required.
Up to $5050 and reserve not met, so that would be $250 for each rusty stock non-runner Vespa—lol.It'd be one thing if any of these looked like they were in half-decent shape but honestly most of them look like shit despite having zero miles on the odometer. Looks like they got exposed to the elements at some point.
Maybe not a Tomos tank though. Those make me a little bit sad.
Interested in buying some kind of top tank. Just the tank please, unless the rest of the moped comes for free.Magnum, General, Pacer, Trac, Derbi C5, Sachs G3, you name it! As long as the petcock threads are good, it doesn't leak, and it's cheap as fuck, I'm probably be interested. Rust, shit paint, missing cap, etc is fine.Hit me baby
Creatures rally is next month
This is probably a long shot, but I'm looking around for a good intake: 15 or 16mm, for Dellorto SHA, that fits a Tomos frame, for four-bolt reed intake port (A35 and whatnot), that swings out to the side.The best candidate I've found was Graham Motzing's short-lived run of blue intakes from a couple years ago. Looks great but I don't think he made that many of them.Anyone bore
Hi guys.Just FYI, I've never banned anyone from /r/moped, and never plan to unless it's some kind of spam issue. I've also almost never removed a comment or post (just spam).Downvote/upvote whatever drama you want. That's how reddit works. The sub's users are what makes it, not me.PS I love MA. I learnt almost everything I know about mopeds from people on MA.Cheers kids.
A few Brewkakke photos from yours trulyAww yeeeh
I recently got an entire book of used CDs from the 90s from them. Pretty sure it took up more space in the package than my actual parts.