Results 1–30 of 173
Love it! It's great to see that riders from the whole area come together so frequently and have good times.I will get my shit together soon and plan to be more involved next year. Ha ha... I hate riding loaner bikes so with DMW's help hopefully we can take the Sparta to a condition where it's less fussy and more fun to ride. Otherwise I'll probably pick up a new/newer Tomos as
I'm emeritus Noviy Lef/Guns and a current NoNo and Femme Pedal. I don't see any perk of joining Moped Army at this point in time. The NoNos have been around a long time without MA support. I've seen so many MA branches fall by the wayside over the years, why bother to join if there is no organizational support?Back in 2003 I was chomping at the bit to join Moped Army. There was som
Hello, I'm sure these questions have been addressed before, but searching has led me to some rabbit holes I'd prefer not to waste time reading. I hope you can help me out.I'm upgrading my Sachs Sparta 504 to a 70cc Athena cylinder. What should I be looking out for? I am upgrading the exhaust as well, but need help with purchasing a new carburetor, as I'm sure there's no wa
As stated before - CONTACT ME VIA E-MAIL at email@example.comI will not entertain offers in a public forum.LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - I will not ship anything
FOR SALE - MAKE OFFERLOCAL PICKUP ONLY (Ypsilanti, Michigan)I'm cleaning out my garage in order to make room for another 2-wheeled vehicle. See something you want? Make me an offer - contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org'60s BENELLI MOPED (unsure of year)Non-running. Incomplete (missing carb/cylinder head/flywheel + misc)Recommended for serious collectors only due to scarcity of parts.PUC
I'm going to be dropping some cash into my Vespa Grande, but I don't want to go all out and have a racing set up. I want to set the bike up as a solid commuter and was wondering which kits & exhaust setups are reccomended for great midrange performance and also long term durability.
you might have knocked something off that is now blocking your air intake.. or you knocked your carburetor out of whack. It could be a lot of things, but it most likely is an airleak. Check to see that your carb and intake are seating properly, as well as your exhaust.Be glad you just dropped it on its side, and not something stupid like I did a while back. I hopped a curb too slow and dropped m
if your current jet is working okay- not overheating, not running too rich, or too lean, spark good color, no bogging- then you don't need to change it. If it's bad- first figure out what the problem is- too much gas? too little? and then buy a smattering (say 4) of jets that are the next sizes bigger/smaller depending on your needs. Also- you need a few different jet sizes if you ride
Call up Handy Bikes in Columbus Ohio.You will need a rebuild kit for your Bing carburetor which consists of:Needle Valve (shuts gas off when float rises to proper level)Bowl Gasket (holds gas in from leaking out)and also probablyFloat (determines the level of gas that flows into the carb bowl)Float Pin (cuz the old ones get bent/rusted/pitted and cause the float to stick)Fiber Washers (go around t
Check the continuity in your wires. Buy a test light at the local auto parts store, should cost under $10. Go thru each wire to make sure there's no frays or breaks. First check the ground wires, make sure you have good grounds. Old mopeds have a lot of rust around the wire-to-frame connection on the ground wires. Use a fine grit sandpaper to clean up the connection. Also check your hig
you can use a three prong bearing puller to get a puch flywheel off, or an impact wrench and a screwdriver in a pinch- even! I buy cheep pullers made in china at Harbor Freight.I suppose when you talk about replacing the ignition coil, you are talking about the high tension coil (external) not the ignition coil (internal, the top one on the stator plate - the bottom one is for your accesories) si
Basically, when you pull the throttle, it guides a mechanism to open the choke up. A standard puch bing has the slide connected to the throttle, so you can only be fully choked when the throttle is closed. The choke helps cut off airflow to the carburetor, so you get a richer mixture which usually enables an easier start. A tomos dellorto carburetor will stay choked until the throttle is at ful
You can always fix things.Go down to the automotive store and ask the clerk if they have a helicoil tap and insert set for a 14mm 1/2" reach spark plug. Last time I set out to do this it cost me less than $50.You can probably pull the choke rod out and straighten it with pliers, or purchase a new carb top.You can buy a new ignition coil. But it's likely that you have a bad condensor a
There are drain and fill bolts on the back of the hub- you can find a manual at mopedriders.org, and use 90 weight gear oil to fill the hub up to the check level. I sell 80/90weight at the scooter shop on michigan ave in ypsi (scootaroundtown.com) if you can't find it at murray's. It's not a bad idea to pull your rear wheel, check your brakes and clean out all the brake dust.
carefully scrape the old gasket off, I use parts cleaner and a fine razor blade, but try not to scratch the metal. Goof off might work well too. Then I use a little 2-stroke to prep the new gasket and replace my cylinder. Buy new (m6?) nuts & lock washers and use a torque wrench if you can find one to borrow and tighten the head back down to proper spec. (see mopedriders.org for the servic
try Handybikes. BJ helped me get a new Motoplat stator plate and flywheel for my Sparta. It runs like a top now!
I always get mopeds with bad/frayed/loose connections on the brake switches. (the two wires coming into each brake lever at the handlebar) Check those! Also, if you have the two piece switches, take the tops off and clean the connections off... I find lots of spiderwebs living in there, making the connections not connect.
Scooterworks doesn't specialize in moped parts. I would be shocked if they had a proper coil for a kinetic TFR. They don't generally even carry the Vespa Moped carburetors. (Dellorto SHA) But they sometimes have Vespa moped Sito exhausts.Scooterworks is awesome, btw, for ordering aftermarket Vespa parts.I may be wrong, but I thought that the Kinetic TFR had an electronic ignition inst
Is it turning the piston over when you're pedaling it? Or is it just driving the rear wheel? There's a pull knob lever on the back of the rear wheel of a grande that allows you to either switch to pure pedaling or have the engine drive the rear wheel.It would help if I could know if the issue on lockup is purely within the wheel hub (ie- stuck brakes, bent pulley) or within the cylinder
Generally, yes. There is probably a short in the system which blew the fuse. check to make sure all your wires are connected where they're supposed to go and connected firmly.
Adam, I spread the word to the Guns for you. Hopefully someone can spend some time with you.
If you don't have the fuse, if you have something wired improperly and you get a voltage spike, you won't have any protection against blowing bulbs and frying anything else.
It's probably leaking from the drain bolt on the underside of the engine. You'll have to find a good hardware store nearby that sells fiber washers in varying sizes. Buy a new one to fit around your drain plug. This is a very common problem.
I meant "If the carb *isn't* tightened down all the way to the intake and airbox, then it may also be an airleak (that resolves itself by the jiggling)."
If the carb is tightened down all the way to the intake and airbox, then it may also be an airleak.I also agree that it's most likely the carb float. Could be in the wrong position, where the needle is blocking gas flow even before the bowl fills with gas.remove the carb, take the bowl off and turn it upside down. The float usually is level with the base of the carb. (but not always, depen
If you're running a new plug and it's missing, sounds like a flywheel issue. Either a dying condensor, points not gapped right or it could even be wiggling about on the crank and going out of timing (ie. a sheared pin or woodruff key- which was the problem with my lambretta scooter that ended up causing damage to my crankshaft and costing me $300) Start with the easy fixes first.
The lighting is all very simple if you decide to hardwire it (engine is on, lights always on) Of course, you can get more complicated and add a battery into the system, or start running more accessories like a horn or turn signals. (stereo system, anyone?)If you're going to restore it back to original, try to find a wiring diagram for your bike to re-create the harness... when I do electrica
maybe lubricate your cable and throttle assembly. Check your cable for wear and tear- if it's frayed, its probably getting stuck in the outer- or if there's a kink in the outer it might be hanging up the inner as well. If there is any visible damage to your cable, I reccomend replacing it, or it *will* break on you at the most inconveinient time possible (murphy's law of mopeds)...
hows the exhaust looking? A clogged exhaust will exhibit those symptoms.