Results 1–30 of 1435
And the tab on the forks for the brake,
Just a close up to show the mount I PM'd you about. This was the first attempt and was too small, had to get a bigger one made.
I'm looking for the rear black plastic bumper for my 1984 Honda Gyro NN50. Cannot find one anywhere, And yes I know they are rare. If you have one please let me know. Thank you. I know this is not a MOPED.
DCP Ryan is correct.But wiring is as follows...Blue wire is for the high beam, White is for low beam, Green is ground.
Take off the black rubber dust boot, Small screwdriver works to pry around them. Once you have the dust boot off you will see there are notches to use a spanner wrench on to unscrew the piece that holds everything in place. Usually these are very hard to turn. A good pair of channel locks will get the job done there.Now be careful as everything will be coated with nasty grease and there are going
First of all. Honda did not make an "Iowa" version of the Express in 1981. Recheck your vin tag. "Iowa" versions were only made from 1982 to 1984. On the Express NC-50 And from 1982 to 1983 On the Urban Express NU-50 and NU-50M.Now let's assume you have an 82 0r 83 Iowa Express NC-50. there is NO restrictor or governor on these bikes. There has been a lot of debate as to w
I'm wondering why you don't just get the NU50M battery?Why even consider the smaller battery?
ok, lets see..... sounds to me like you've got some work to do. First thing is to clean the carb. Take it off the bike and give it a good cleaning. Also I'm not 100% sure but it sounds like your bike have a vacuum petcock or if you prefer, fuel valve. If so it should have two lines coming off it. One on the bottom usually goes to the intake. That one is used to supply engine vacuum to th
1979 Vespa Piaggio Grande Super Deluxe. 25mph version.No title, have no clue if it runs as of yet. Just wanting to see if anyones interested? have both side covers and trans covers. rolls and pedals, cables seem good and brakes work, not well, but work. send me an e-mail. email@example.com I'm in Iowa so you'll have to pick it up.
Ignition, ignition, ignition...Your express is barely firing. it's never going to rev up firing like that. what specificly? check your points first, although I doubt it, if an express fires it's usually not the points. coil wire at the plug would be my first suspect, or plug boot itself. possibly bad plug. make sure all your grounds are clean and hooked up throught the wiring.next is exh
Thanks rebel. do I have to port? this is a customer bike and don't really want to tear into engine unless I have to
Just wondering whats the best carb to put on for performance, stock engine stock pipe, just looking for 35mph. also if a new intake is needed which is best. Any other bolt on mods to help?
For the fuel tank you have to remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the back of it in. they are located under the tail light housing, They also hold the tail light in place. and I believe the rear package cage has to come off as well.
While your in there, OOOO steel wool soaked with carb cleaner will do a good job of cleaning up the top of the pistion and cylinder.
Na-50 NC-50 are all the same as far as engine goes. Honestly your cylinder does not look that bad but looks like you bottom ring is stuck in the ring land. That could be your low compression issue. Cheap way to try and fix is to carefully get the rings out without breaking them and clean them, also clean the ringlands...aka grooves in the piston where the rings go. light hone on the cylinder and c
ok, how far up from the bottom should the choke plunger be when closed. I really don't see any other way to tell if its closing all the way?
checked the plug again black sooty buildup which to me says it's rich. How can it be rich with an air leak?
If the bike will only run for a few seconds on carb cleaner your choke should not be the major problem unless the plunger is either missing or stuck. pull the carb and clean/inspect it, before anything
70psi is too low, top end rebuild at least.
Thanks for the links Rebel Moby, went through the carb again found the float level was wrong. adjusted it. Cleaned everything. Put back on the bike and seems better, engine will now rev on stand and has picked up more top end while riding. Found it has an air leak at where the carb meets the intake and there never was a plastic bushing/gasket there. Should it have one? Also I have the idle speed s
Lots of baby powder good tire spoons and lots of patience. The Gazelles are a lot harder to put on then the cheap tires, but it can be done. I have installed enough of them to know.
I don't think it's the belt seeing as it was fine when it rolled in here. And it's not been ridden since.
could be any easy way to check that?
oh... the bike starts awesome idles pretty good and runs fine except no top end.
I have in the shop a 78 mobylette with the av7 and dimobyclutch. It was running fine when it came in the shop, for new grips, tires and hooked the decomp lever back up. also installed a new piece of fuel line between the petcock and fuel filter. After sitting for about a week waiting on the grips started the bike and now it's only hitting about 15mph. Nothing else was done, chain is not adjus
If I'm understanding you correctly, you've disabled the oil pump?If so. your pre mix is leaning out the fuel. meaning that anytime you add oil to gas your taking away from the total amount of fuel the engine is getting. So as stated above you may be running lean. Especially with that nice clean new filter. Is there a reason you've switched to pre-mix?
The case must have the gasket in place for the correct clearance.
Yw glad to help and glad you found the videos.Yes there is supposed to be an o-ring on the idle mix screw, normally there is a small washer as well. and a spring. the hose you ask about is a vent. you should have these hoses, fuel line, two hoses are for the auto choke and a hose at the bottom for the bowl drain plus the vent hose. Now the vent hose and bowl drain hose are not critical.