Results 1–30 of 266
novakarl — 13 years ago
What did you weld that with, a stick welder?and what's inside there? Anything? A perforated tube? Something to keep the fiberglass in the silencer?I did something like this on a four stroke, with a perforated tube, and the holes were way too big. The fiberglass kept clogging the outlet...
Novakarl — 13 years ago
Just go pick up? That looks heavy.
Novakarl — 13 years ago
I agree with Meek here. I have an assortment of old dull dremel bits that cut for a few seconds and then get loaded up with aluminum. It just takes one little slip to mess up something with a dremel tool, so files are probably the way to go.I found a bucket of needle files at a local hardware store for $1 or so each, so I have a handful of those. You can heat them up with a torch, bend them and
novakarl — 14 years ago
I do like vxb.com, they are very quick,There's always MSC direct, and consolidated beraings as well. Between these two, I got everything I needed for a ZA50 rebuild.In my opinion, the best thing to do is find someone with a lathe big enough to turn your wheels. I'm using 5201ZZ bearings on both the front and rear snowflakes. With a lathe, the bearings will fit like they're meant
novakarl — 14 years ago
With 16x36 gears, I can go faster, but it takes more road to get there, and with the brakes on this moped, hmm...The powerdynamo ignition does not have a curve, and I have it set where I don't hear any pinging at any RPM, so this may be a little retarded at high RPM? Is this correct?What I was really getting at, is that I'm not supposed to be going more than 35MPH anyway, and I'm w
novakarl — 14 years ago
In Virginia, a moped can't go more than 35MPH as far as I know.At the moment, I have a Pinto with an E50, 20mm Del carb, 75cc small port metrakit, Powerdynamo ignition, a Homoet 8p pipe, a clutch that grabs pretty late, and 13-36 sprockets.With this configuration, it takes off pretty good, it hits the pipe harder than michael phelps around 35MPH, and tops out at 48MPH GPS.A small port kit, an
novakarl — 14 years ago
I think that's a 1980 Puch with metra65...?
novakarl — 14 years ago
250, I have a hard time understanding what you're typing.If you can bolt heads on a Camaro, you can bolt a big bore kit on a Tomos, and your kit is already bored .30 over...Tuning implies exactly what it sounds like. Everything works "in tune" so to speak. You get the best performance when everything works together. If your pipe doesn't hit until 7000RPM and you can't h
novakarl — 14 years ago
Good point Saab, now that I think about it, I don't think the clutch I'm using on the E50 has a keyway either...
novakarl — 14 years ago
The powerdynamo flywheel doesn't have a key either, and it's bigger and heavier than the HPI. I never had either flywheel slip. I put some blue loctite on the contact area between the flywheel and the crank, although it's probably not at all necessary... just seemed like a good idea at the time, and I was worried about slipping.The HPI setup isn't designed to put out a lot o
novakarl — 14 years ago
How are you using the 80cc metrakit intake on an E50? That's the wierdo 45 degree one, right?For measuring oil, if you have a Nyquil or Robotussin bottle around, you can use the measuring cup from that if it does ounces. There are 128 fluid ounces in a gallon. Divide 128 by the ratio you want, so if you want 32:1, that's128 / 32 = 4oz of oil per gallon.The jets depend on a lot of diff
novakarl — 14 years ago
As far as I can tell it's just a different sticker on the box.If there are any subtle differences, I couldn't tell, it seems to rip about about the same as another metra 65.
novakarl — 14 years ago
You could always helicoil the cylinder, then use the allen head bolts, but $30 for the helicoil kit, and then the time and effort to do it right...It's nice to have the helicoil kit around if you ever NEED it though.
Novakarl — 14 years ago
Does Haynes even make manuals for scooters?One reason you may be lacking in the zip department is because for every revolution that your engine does something useful, it wastes another stroke pushing out exhaust gas, and drawing in fuel mixture. If only there was a way to overlap the process of intake/compression and power/exhaust... you could have a power stroke on every revolution.
Novakarl — 14 years ago
ZA50 race cranks? I want one.Like Timo said, the E50 is easy to find parts for, and the ZA50 is just pure awesome when it's built right and in good condition.E50 case halves split vertically, so slap it together and you're good to go.ZA50 case halves split horizontally, so end-float tolerances, shims...
Novakarl — 14 years ago
One issue that has not yet been addressed...The battery isn't going to last very long.Shopvacs take a good amount of power. At 12V, that translates to huge amount of current. I have run a shopvac using a 1000W modified sine wave inverter, and if I remember correctly, the inverter was drawing about 80A or more from the battery. You could drive the shopvac motor more efficiently using a true
novakarl — 14 years ago
Yes, that was a joke...Anti-sieze compound works great on oxygen sensor threads, and things like that.I bought an engine on Ebay a while back, and the piston was so gunked up, it was frozen solid in the cylinder. I don't know how it got that bad, but I almost wondered whether the previous owner was mixing bacon grease with their gas instead of 2-stroke oil.If you mix your own gas, and measur
novakarl — 14 years ago
Wierd.What's even wierder is that I've been siezing more since I started mixing this stuff 50:1 with my gas.<a href="http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/novakarl/othercrap/?action=view¤t=anti-sieze.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/novakarl/othercrap/anti-sieze.jpg" border="0" alt="Photob
novakarl — 14 years ago
Sorry, I made them on a lathe...There must be some steel pipe with a true 1/2" ID...
novakarl — 14 years ago
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1482k18/=1rh0jj2 of those and a die.I tried allthread before, and that didn't work too well. The bearings smashed down the threads, and the inner races spun against the axle.
novakarl — 14 years ago
www.vxb.com has a bunch of bearings, but I couldn't find anything that would fit without modification.
novakarl — 14 years ago
Lathe is the best way. Big lathe. Hit the brake drums while you're at it. ...and if I remember right, the front bearing was 32mm, and the rear was 30mm.This is with a 12 x 32 x 15.9mm<a href="http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/novakarl/Pinto_new/?action=view¤t=DSCN1053R.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/novak
Novakarl — 14 years ago
That looks like a fun place to cruise around : D
novakarl — 14 years ago
Hmm, I didn't try new rings or the new piston. The piston and cylinder walls had some gouges.Pretty stupid on my part, but it was hard to resist the temptation to hit the powerband :DHow's your idle? Maybe you're just running too lean with the throttle closed because of an airleak, or because there's no idle mix adjustment on the bing? I somehow ended up with an airleak at t
novakarl — 14 years ago
You're not going to want to hear this, but I'm convinced that I destroyed a Metra 65 cylinder by not breaking it in properly.It had an airleak in the beginning, which didn't help. I managed to sieze up the engine, then I fixed the air leak and got the jetting about right.I was running a Homoet 6P exhaust. The powerband was up pretty high, and I ripped on that new cylinder pretty h
novakarl — 14 years ago
I think this carb and intake came in the same package (Malossi), but I don't remember. It developed a pretty bad air-leak in that gap on top, between the clamp section and the rest of the carb body. Make sure you check that when you shart it up...<a href="http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e20/novakarl/Pinto_old/?action=view¤t=MalossiSHA16mmCarbR.jpg" target="_bla
novakarl — 14 years ago
Yuck.Time to buy a new one?If there's enough depth between the bottom of those holes, and where the four holes for the studs that hold the cylinder to the case, maybe there's a chance to go deeper, and heli-coil it. I think the depth should be 1.5 times the bolt diameter.If that doesn't work, you need to get it really clean, and grind a little but more away, whether you fill it wit
novakarl — 14 years ago
So did the flange crack, or did the stud just break off?I had one Metra 65 where the flange actually cracked, so there wasn't really anything to re-thread. I used JB weld, and it ran for several minutes before it came apart.On another Metra 65, I had the exhaust stud break off with about 1/8" sticking out. I helicoiled that with good results.On the new Metra 65, I'm just going to
novakarl — 14 years ago
I thought the stock jet on my old 1.5 HP Puch was around#50.Are you using the stock airbox?Sounds like you might have developed an air leak. The gaskets are in place, and the carb is pushed all the way forward, right?
Novakarl — 14 years ago
The Jennings book has some good information about squish bands.I don't think either head is ideal, because the 70cc head may have a bigger than ideal gap between the piston crown and the squish band, and the 50cc head would have higher compression everything else being equal.I think the Jennings book says that a good squish band should help to prevent detonation, and the heat should be more c