Results 1–30 of 101
Thanks a lot mobyman, that helps me very much. Two questions:Would a standard puller work? I think I have a little two armed puller around the shop... Also how to I get to TDC? Is there a mark on the flywheel?
I have not fiddled with the ignition. It has OKAY spark somebody pulled apart a wire and I had to splice it. I've been looking all over to figure out how to set the timing on an A3. I want it set exact and Fred's Guide had me guessing. A3 manual didn't help either-Too much German.Only other thing I can note is that after running it hard and taking out the plug, "steam" com
I opened up the intake manifold and matched the intake port and I polished up the exhaust port and slightly lowered it. Nothing crazy.But seriously this thing sucks. It gets up to about 30 mph and revs like its full out. If I'm lucky I get it to 35 mph. Every time I do a plug chop "steam" comes out from the plug hole. My jets are 56. 60. 62. 64. 68:The Run Down:56: Seized it with ai
Hello all,I finally got my A3 running, well sort of. I put a new set of STD rings on the Piston, new top-end gaskets, and honed the Cylinder to smooth out a little soft seize because of a previous air leak and running 56 Jet in my 15.15 with Bullet Pipe. My old 14.12 was shot (somebody used wood screws on the float bowl) so that lead me to buy the new 15.15 Dell...and while I was at it, a new Tech
Well I just bought the SHA so that makes me feel very warm inside...I am going to make it work. I put the stock carb on and lined the shim with some RTV and will try it out in the morning. With the stock cylinder and manifold, I couldn't do a PHPG could I? I'm not into fabricating either...
It's got the shim, but I did port the manifold inlet with a dremmel. I mean I didn't go overboard but the wall is thinner..
I sprayed carb cleaner around the carb where it connects to the mani and motor died down. So I must have a leak there...But why everything is tight?
Carb and intake are tight and manifold gasket is intact.
It never idled high like this before? I mean would a big jet cause a high idle?
I have a 1991 Tomos Bullet with an A3. I switched the stock dellorto with a 15.15 SHA and added a Techno Bullet pipe. The Stock carb had a 56 main and the new 15.15 has a 68. When I crank her up, she will rev up and idle really high. Which scares me! Idle screw is turned out and throttle cable is not pinched or stuck. It performs poorly aswell and pulls itself on idle. Is the 68 jet causing this h
So I have a '90/91 Bullet A3 that is all stock and begging to scoot. My dellorto 14.12 is shot so I need a new carb for my short 18mm intake. I am looking at the 15.15, will it work with my stock manifold and is there any gains? Next I am looking at that lil cute Jarmacol (yeah ive read the threads) because I can't afford a bullet. Then I'd like a UNI to eliminate my inframe airbox.
I have a '91Tomos A3 and looking for a Pipe/Filter Combo. I've got the stock carb that sits in the frame. I am not looking to spend too much, so the Techno Bullet looks good. Will I have any complications with my kick stand with a Techno Bullet? Also what size Uni will work on my stock carb?
not too many bolt ons. you can buy a slip on chamber or hack and weld a pipe, make your own intake manifold adapter with a 19mm flange and run a bigger dellortho carb, round out the square exhaust port to match stock pipe, dremel out lip on stock intake mani, mill the head for greater compression ratio, if yours has a varaitor you can extend the path for the weights and play with different weights
how do this bolt up to an a3? I'm after some speed, but would rather putt along at 30 than hack and weld and rejet a thousand times....I've got mono too and don't have the strength
I've got the 2 HP stock ZA50 (Rectangular Tranny Case) puch engine. What's the usual jump in jet sizes for a pipe? I mean let's say I have a 64, would I jump to 66 or 68?
Thanks! I know what upjetting is, but I don't know the main jet size since I have yet to open the carb. How many jet sizes are you supposed to bump it up with just a performance pipe? I guess I'll just do the HC Head and a nice pipe to get some more juice outta her. Any kind of special head gasket or plug for the new head? Pretty much I'd like to two easy bolt-ons and skip the tunin
I have a 1985 Maxi LS-2speed (ZA50) currently all stock. I want to keep the standard bore. I was looking at some other Puch's that had an aftermarket ignition...I liked that. I think the most I'd like to do would be a Ignition, Pipe, and High-Compression Head combo, what do you guys recommend? My baby's nice and original so I still want to keep it classy and reliable, just a little
Wow, thanks for the information!So, my Solo is a one-speed then (I had my hopes up for a two.) I checked the exhaust port and it was clean, as was the pipe. Tomorrow I will play with the timing and re check the carb slide and see if that cures the problem. It starts up first kick in 30 Deg. Weather, so that's a little hope for me :)Will let you guys know...maybe take a few pics if you're
Hi all,Just purchased a nice little '77 Solo Odyssey locally for $100. It's complete and in pretty decent shape. It has the automatic watercooled, reed valve, 10mm bing setup. Who ever ran it before me must have used a TON of oil in the gas, as the carb was full of oil and the exhaust pipe almost completely carbon clogged. I chipped most of all the carbon out of the pipe and cleaned the
Funny, my friend has this exact same scooter. It is OIL INJECTED meaning you do NOT mix gas with oil. If you look at the floorboard where it goes up towards the seat there is a little plastic "door" or compartment there. Unscrew the screw that holds this piece of plastic on and fill the tank with two stroke injector oil. Unleaded gas only in the tank. It is probably running with the impr
Can somebody help me out. I don't have the tolerance tool and need to shim. I'm very desperate now to get this straight!
How can I measure the tolerance without special tools? I have a bunch of shims from 2 different ZA's. Can you walk me through the whole procedure keeping in mind this is my first puch motor? I have a ruler and a measuring tape and patience to get this right, but I'm new to moped mechanics and don't know the run around on how things work.
So I am rebuilding my ZA50. I have some washers and two shafts for them to go on (clutch and main shaft) to shim for tranny bearings. How many and which shaft do they go on
I was trying to hold the drive sprocket shaft with vice grips to loosen the nut. I sheared one of the teeth on the gear that holds the "pucks." I DID GET THIS NUT OFF: I found a heavy duty motorcycle chain and drove the pin part of the way out of one link, then I stuck the pin in one of the holes on the puck gear and the chain link wedged itself between the gear and clutch bell. I put th
I have 15mm socket and different length ratchets to turn that nut, but no real (humane) way to stop the gear from turning since I don't have a drive sprocket.
Well what I'm saying is that I don't have a sprocket and I can't wait to order one. I tried jamming one of the big gears with a screwdriver and thus sheared a tooth or two. I can't find anything to hold on to in order to stop the gear from turning (that won't be destroyed in the process.) I'm sure somebody has a clever way to gear that first gear off w/o a drive sproc
I'm in the same boat, I don't have a drive sprocket. Is they any other way to get that nut off besides using an impact wrench?
jeepers I don't own an impact gun...any other techniques?
I am taking out the tranny on my ZA50, but I don't have any of the puch tools to make it easy, aswell as not having the sprocket to jam a socket in to loosen the gears. Since I don't have a sprocket how can I remove the gear that has the "pucks"?I tried gripping the sprocket shaft with channel locks, but that didn't work...also tried jamming a screw driver in the gear teet
How would I advance the timing? Could a dirty carb cause this because it 4 strokes at WOT @ 28 MPH and seems to sputter as the exhuast goes vrooooombaaabaooooombabaaaoooom instead of vrooooooooom....