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Taiwanese scooters are usually pretty good. It's the "generic brand" chinese shit that sucks.. I've heard the new "Lambrettas" are kind of mediocre, not sure where they're made though.
I got their album, it includes a poster of Jack White as a furry.A little part of my soul died upon seeing that...
The correct pronunciation is brfxxccxxmnpcccclllmmnprxvclmnckssqlbb11116.when I was in Switzerland, people usually pronounced it "pewk" (rhymes with nuke.) Weird local dialect I guess.
Thoughts on the finale? Personally, I thought the show needed more time to really wrap up. The plot of the last two episodes was kind of far-fetched, and I felt that a lot of the issues which had been building from the beginning were glossed over in the finale.
Dude, look at the spreadsheet, find out what most kitted a55s with stock carbs are running, and get a range of jets around that. The year and model of your bike doesn't matter, just what engine. Your location and the individual character of your bike are going to have as much influence On jetting as what pipe, filter, etc... So if you're running a tecnigas and someone else is running
Umm, high torque cylinders have round intake ports. But yeah you can't know if the actual port is round or square unless you take off the intake manifold and look at it. Intakes are usually round where it mates to the carb and square where it mates to the cylinder.I had one of the round ports on my stock cylinder so I decided tojust keep the stock carb. I went to a huge one when I kitted i
Modify the ports on the cylinder for more speed and awesome. Search it!
!http://mudflats.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/puck.jpg!+!http://www.teachersites.net/content/7/119/4772/my%20files/s_blue-angels-jets.jpg!=Puck Jets?!?!?"These":http://www.treatland.tv/bing-jets-for-puch-mopeds-p/bing-jets-puch-mopeds.htm are the ones you want.Bing carbs take bing jets, dellorto carbs take dellorto jets.
You are going to have to upjet. I ran a proma gp on my stock bike, others have used estoril, boss, tecno circuit etc... It's all about what kind of powerband you want. You should mod your filter too, or get a high flow one.
I can see it being awesome with some serious porting. 77 built a heavily ported a35 with a 19 phbg. The 50 athena reed kit for puch (which i think has bridged transfer ports but is otherwise similar technology to an a35) comes with a 19mm intake. I don't think a 20 on a ported a35 is too much of a stretch.
I think TFRs get much more shit than they deserve. I have a friend with one, it's wicked fast for a stock ped, and it starts up first try every time, just by spinning the rear wheel with your hand.Anyway, you should start with a pipe and filter. Cheaper, good performance boost, and much less chance to screw it up, esp. if you're new.https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1605/Piaggio-Techn
There's plenty of relevant info in the spreadsheet. Hint: look for similar setups, not necessarily one identical to what you're running. Like for instance, if someone has your setup but with a different pipe, the jetting is likely to be pretty close. Like others have said, get a range.FYI this site is paid for by MA members, like the dude you just flamed. Think about that before tryin
Confused about the difference between moped and scooter? This thread can help! "https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/1/666623/666623/":url
Seriously, having friends who know small engines is a huge help. I work with some guys from the scooter scene and having them around is awesome for tuning questions. Didn't stop me from soft-seizing my metra twice though... i swear that thing just hates oil mix less than 40:1
I doubt there's any weird obscure bing parts you couldn't get on the buy/sell forum.If you want to drop the money for a new carb though, I'd see if you can find a 14 bing and intake used. The jets already in it will probably be pretty close to what you want.Otherwise, treatland.tv should have a new 15 bing and intake. It's about 100 bucks for the both of them, plus whatever y
In order to tune your new carb you are going to have to take it apart. But if you're really set on a new one, a bing 14 or 15 is probably your best bet. The stock carb is probably a bing 14.Why aren't you able to work with the one you have already, is it missing parts?
How do you plan to tune your new carb if you can't even reassemble a bing?
I'm sure you are going to hear this a ton from other people on this site, but take it slow. I wouldn't slap together a cylinder kit, carb, pipe, filter, etc. all at once, especially if you're new. Most people start with a pipe and filter and work your way up from there.There's never really a _perfect_ match-up of performance gear... it's all about what you're lookin
Keep in mind that doing these modifications is going to significantly shorten the life of your engine unless you replace some certain key parts. I would look into getting at least a reinforced piston return spring. If you get the one with the stuffed woodruff key, make sure you remove the stuffing, or it can fall out and screw up the carburetor bearings.
_Technically_ speaking, it doesn't increase the compression ratio because the compression ratio is a constant--the ratio of the cylinder volume at BDC to TDC. But yeah, the effect is similar because it is putting more mixture in per charge, and that mixture is therefore going to be more dense at TDC. Anyway, you should get a proma GP for sure! I love mine, only gripe is the header paint st
A pipe isn't going to increase your compression dude. Compression is just the ratio of the volume of the cylinder at bottom dead center to the volume at top dead center. Basically, how much the mixture is getting _compressed._ Higher compression generally means better take-off, but you may have to run higher grade fuel. I'd go ahead and take out the head gasket or get a high compress
I'll second the proma gp recommendation. It was a great boost for my stock bike, and I'm still happy with it on my 65 metra. I've never really had it above 45, but I've never really given it more than 3/4 throttle on a flat either. Climbs hills great though. Gonna be sick with some clutch tuning.
So I'm working on getting my kit dialed in. The setup isE5065 Metra, no case match yet.Proma GPModified Bing foam filter19 phbg86 mainw6 needle, 2nd leanest slot42 pilotUsually, it starts on the first kick, runs smooth, idles nice, is pretty damn near perfect. Occasionally though, especially after a long straight stretch, if I drop the throttle too quickly and stop, it will bog and stall wh
ANCIENT POST BUMP!Looks like the link has disappeared, do you have a good one? I remember that thread being awesome, I want to send it to a friend who's tuning a modern scooter.
The alukit transfers are probably small enough that you could re-match your case to a different kit if you wanted to.
Yeah, if you can find a kit sans head for cheaper, go for it dude...But it's the cylinder, not the head that increases displacement and has better porting. A 70 head on a stock motor does not make it a 70cc kitted motor..
Cylinder = the cylinder inside which the piston moves up and down.Head = the block that sits on top of the cylinder that forms the combustion chamber. Where the plug screws in.Kit = an aftermarket performance piston and cylinder.With this in mind, could you rephrase your question in a way that makes sense?
I'm not an expert by any means, but my crackpot theory is that the aggressive porting is making it not want to run once it falls out of the powerband. The straight pipe can't provide significantly more backpressure than no pipe at all, so it doesn't make sense that it just wants extremely low backpressure. A straight pipe would change the powerband though. The shop vac could be s