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This is too important to miss.
Try Mr. Moped .. but that wasn't the adjustment anyway .. the adustment is similar to the brake adjustment .. something you turn at the end of your cable before it goes into the handgrip. There's also an adjustment at the other end of your cable at the carb .. it's under the little rubber hood. You'll have to play around to get it right.One Big Tip - take your time in repairs
Mine is a 2001 - A35 engine .. I don't think there was a gasket on the head when I took the thing apart, but one came when I ordered the gasket kit when doing my rings. I cracked it in two places now from overtorquing .. small cracks .. be careful if you use one .. torque to specs which you can find on the web service and repair manual. My compression is over 100 now that the rings are seat
Sounds like you need to adjust your choke/throttle cable .. this is done at the carb or at the handgrip.Sounds also like your exhaust system is plugged full. Take it off and fill it with carb cleaner or gasoline and slosh it around lots and drain it and fill it again and let it sit overnight and slosh it around and drain it. Then take out the baffle tube and clean it .. then while the baffle tub
With the A35 muffler I take out the Baffle Tube, then look way up into the muffler, and I see a small diameter tube which I use a coat hanger wire to clean. That tube seems to run to the front of the muffler.
Your rings will have to 'seat' - wear in - conform to the slight variations in roundness in the cylinder. It'll take a while. Did you torque your head? If not you may have cracked your copper gasket by tightening too much.
I'm so glad I could help someone with that particular problem .. it was soooooooooooooooooooooooooo frustratingfinding what was wrong.
It may sound like it's inside the engine but is probably outside, my healight rattle sure sounded like the engine was flying apart . . especially if it's a two stroke with no valves to clatter. If your connecting rod is banging it won't last long .. but you can check it by disassembling down to the crankcase and looking in and feeling and moving the piston.
Examine your contacts very carefully and make sure the bulb contacts touch firmly . . make sure the new bulb is good by trying it in the brake bulb position .. trace your wires looking for damage very carefully.
By the way .. some laws call for one of the bulbs being on all the time .. it's a running/riding light .. the brake light is the other bulb, but I can't remember which is top and bottom.
On the other hand .. I look to see if I can help no matter what the bike is, and I read the posts and learn. Identification is needed in the posting though.
Does the bottom one light up when you put the brakes on?You'll probably have to put the bike on its stand and rev it to test.
I can't resist the top end, Mick, and up here in Canada that $70 - $80 part is @200 - for the kit it's $300. We get soaked .. ripped off .. stolen from .. kicked in the gutter and left to die.
Dirty fuel filters and dirty exhaust systems are tops in moped problems.
Yes .. a tire iron or two from a motorcycle shop is what you need. And a good quality baby powder instead of the soapy water for slipperiness. Water can cause your rim to rust for one thing. I'm not surprised your pncturing while using a screwdriver. I use one tire iron and one box end of a wrench .. but two irons might be better. You'll never regret spending the small money for the
I did the conversion to miles. There's no problem with the exhaust if it's clean.
Yes, but money doesn't grow on trees up here in Canada .. the winters are too cold for that .. and parts are expensive here .. probably doubel or triple U.S. prices.
Yeah .. not much compression. If you tighten your head's nuts use a torque to specifications or you might strip threads, break bolts.
Your spark plug electrodes reveal conditions by their colour. If your electrodes are pale you are using too little gas (too lean) if they're black you're using too much (too rich). Various colour stages in between. If you are using too much gas perhaps your air filter is dirty, and that will suck in more gas than required.
I don't know about your bike, but your name is simply great.
It's probably parts vibrating outside the engine. If your piston were hitting the head it might close the spark plug gap (I don't know what your head looks like .. or your face either) but there is no reason for your piston to hit your head, well, unless you had your head off and did not replace the gasket, and your tolerances were that close.
The stock Tomos A35 muffler has a small diameter (less than 1/4"?) tube ahead of the Baffle Tube which can plug and cause lots of problems which will be misdiagnosed leading to unnecessary parts purchases/replacements unless the tube is discovered and cleaned. In three months of trying to solve my problem by efforts including contacting people like four North American dealers, Tomos&#
You'll have too rich a gas mixture and maybe destroy your oil pump and oil lines as it's made for oil not gas.Really though Madtown, I have 10,000 miles on my A35 with not the least oil pump problem .. the pump is too simple to break down .. I think riders forget to fill their oil tank and blame the pump.
Does it have a gas tank filter? I had a serious power and heating problem that made me think I had a seized Connecting Rod bearing but the problem was a plugged fuel filter. Mabe your electrical glitch is just coincidence .. but I guess you could have a short.
And get a torque wrench and torque specifications to prevent breaking a second bolt. You might need a new head gasket.Torque specs appear to come in 'wet' (oiled) and 'dry' (not oiled). It is said on the forum that wet specs are what you should use after oiling your nut and bolt (stud).
Wish I could help - my knowledge stops with the A35 engine and exhaust.