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Definitely tune that clutch for high RPM engagement and put a 14mm Bing back on.My setup with lightly ported 50 TCCD, high comp head, tecno circuit, 14mm Bing, and 16x45 gears does 42 mph uphill, downhill, and sideways all day.With the Bing it still runs a bit rich at low RPM when jetted properly for high, and that is on a carb where you can actually mess with atomizers, etc to get things working.
I second the Surly Furious! All the Surly beers are top notch. I currently live just outside their distribution area and lose sleep knowing such good beer exists just across the border.
The Dogfish 120 minute is heaven in a bottle for hop lovers if you can find it. Pretty pricey but worth it. The only places I have ever seen it are online and randomly hiding in the cooler at an Old Chicago restaurant where I had it.
Temps in the 90's versus temps in the 70's is not going to make a huge difference in heat transfer. With head temps at like 300-400F you would only see like a 5% difference in heat transfer.
How many people have even really had problems with the bushing setup? I have heard of and seen plenty of roller bearings turn into projectiles in moped engines and destroy the piston, cylinder, and other components. I have also seen plenty of burnt up, smeared, scratched Puch bushings. It seems while the roller bearings are probably a better bet all around, their failures are far more catastrop
Definitely best to just get the tool. Costs like 10-15 bucks and is well worth it for clutch tuning.
I think thats a d cylinder. I thought the d cylinders were square like that? If its a d its the same as the one on your Hercules.
I demand a fully dimensioned port map!
I got a 2.17 atomizer from handybikes about a year ago. Not sure but I would imagine they probably have the 2.11 too.
If you are willing to buy used, the best source for cheap Mikunis is a motorcycle junkyard or ebay. Mik VMs were super common on older Japanese motorcycles. Just do some research to find what bikes have the size you want. I got a VM18 off an old Bridgestone for like 15 bucks off ebay.
You should leave that last cylinder untouched and just put it on and ride. Then do a lot more research on how 2-strokes work before trying this again.
Thanks crackstar! Thats what I needed to hear.
Sigh... I have the fat header and I am aware of the two piece biturbo option. I was just looking for some other alternatives. Really want to hang the pipe from the motor as well and I don't see that happening with the biturbo.
I have a 77 Foxi GT with the 504/1A motor. I am just about finished putting it together, but I need to find a good pipe to modify for it. I heard some Peugeot pipes are close? I was kinda of thinking of something like the "Peugeot Vogue Gianelli":https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1588/Peugeot-Vogue-Gianelli-Exhaust/ or the "Peugeot Faco":https://www.1977mopeds.com/product
Airleaks? Otherwise you might need a different needle jet. If you can find them there are a range of different sizes... 2.17, 2.20, 2.22, etc. They make a big difference on your idle.
Get some 2 inch tires! I've got some 17X2 IRC NR-58s and they are nice and light!
Has anyone had any luck finding some automotive control arm bushings or something like that to replace the crappy rubber mounts on these motors? I know the Motobecane guys found something that worked so it seems reasonable that something out there might fit Sachs.
Clutch and gearing is crucial for these things. Its bog city if the clutch grabs before the motor can build some RPMs.
I had that exact setup on a ped last summer and switched to the 50 TCCD (similar to the treats kit). What I noticed was basically a shift in the power into the higher RPM's. I was getting mid-upper 30s with the stock cylinder. The kit brought it up to mid 40s with noticeably worse low end but generally better power all around. Super reliable set up as well and tons of fun.
I had an E-50 make a similar noise when the lower rod bearing went bad. Is there a lot of up/down play in your connecting rod?
I have a similar setup with a 50 TCCD (similar kit) and had what sounds like the exact same problem. Clutch tuning is definitely the secret to fixing the problem. I had a two shoe with Paz springs tightened as far as they could go and it still would not engage high enough once the motor got warm. I was able to fix the problem by taking a bit of weight off the shoes. Now I have great power all
Bings won't leak as long as the float is properly adjusted and the float needle is in good condition. I'm pretty sure this is true of any type of carb.
Lol @ the different sized chunks. Kit selection decision matrix anyone?
Old school VM 17-18 is exactly what I got. Needs a little work though. How do replacement parts work for VM carbs? Are things like floats and float needles pretty much common for all VM's, or do they vary by size?
Lulz. I'm sure they spent millions on the R&D for a $60 moped cylinder kit.
The window on the 50 Kstar does nothing except possibly help lubricate the cylinder wall. Piston's with holes such as the one on the 50 kstar need ports cut in the wall above the intake port to be effective. Look at the ports on a 70 kstar or the old 50 TCCD to see what I'm talking about.The reason it won't run with the piston upside down is because the hole in the piston is openi
I was hoping to find a VM-16 but I couldn't turn down a VM-18 for $15 lol! Good to hear they are being used successfully. Seems like a better cheap option than a knock off dellorto imo. Didn't know the small jets were hard to find though...I was hoping to be able to get them at a local motorcycle/atv dealer. Are there any good places to buy jets on the cheap online?
Anyone using the smaller Mikuni VM carburetors on Puch setups? It seems like all the talk around here is mostly about PHGB's and flat slides. Considering it is pretty easy to find old MIKs at bargain prices I would think someone must have tried this. I have got a VM-18 I am thinking of putting on my E50 Newport with a 50cc TCCD kit. I am curious about other people's experiences befor
He used an Oxy-Acetylene welder to make the pipe. Before electric welders were invented this was the only way to weld. Its not really like brazing at all. Gas welding like that produces quality welds on par with TIG...far better than cheapo MIG setups.
Is there some advantage to doing this over just switching to a 2.20 or 2.17 jet holder? I have a 50 TCCD I could not get to idle at all, and switching to a 2.17 fixed it beautifully. I cannot imagine many setups needing a smaller idle jet than a 50 TCCD...