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This is exactly the kind of solution I was looking for! Thanks,
OK so now I just have to find a torque wrench that measures counterclockwise - many of them go that direction but won't "click" and are design to measure just one way - not impossible to find but more $. Anyone else run into this issue? Anyone else run into this issue and have suggestions?
Thank you! I had JUST finally found that manual and came to post it - tons of key info there.
HEY so late response (had to put off this project for a while) but question for you or anyone that knows: WHAT are the torque specs for that backwards threaded nut? Or where do I find that info? Looked around a few places and can't seem to find it. Thanks,
> What does your fill plug look like?>> Original plastic ones crumble and fall inside. If thats the case now> would be a good time to remove the majority of scraps before putting> together. Although the gears will just gind em up.You beat me to it. I got a new plug a while ago, but me getting in there to get the bits out of the old one is what started this mess I think? But yes it
Right. So I ripped the OG gasket like a dumbass a while ago (I now know how to open it properly). Ordered a new one on treats that claims to be the same thickness, put everything back correctly (I think - I realize now I should have been more careful. I was in there trying to get the bits of my crumbled stopper out which now I WISH for fucks sake I just left alone) and a few weeks later the smalle
Check! Already done thanks to many of you on here highlighting the importance. Mine were completely gone. Put Loctite on the screws after install as well.Now to try and nail this shimming thing...gonna grab a torque wrench, and some plastigage and give it a shot. Found a few helpful guides on here including some heated debates of course...
I've read through every word of that za50 wiki many times, and greatly appreciate all the info there. I just couldn't make complete sense of what it meant in reference to which side was which with "springs" etc and kept questioning if I had it right. I'm learning as I go and not the most mechanically inclined but wanted to be 100% sure so thank you for telling me where min
So I get the appeal of flipping the 2nd speed clutch but I dug around on here, and youtube and can't find a sure visual on what "normal" or "flipped" looks like (wondering if mine was already flipped or not when I got in there). I have the handy za50 exploded diagram but I can't tell from that which way is which? I'm probably missing something obvious, but can so
Oh ok, I thought it "dampened" the shift into 2nd, but I guess it wouldn't be to the point you could feel on the bike.So when pucks go out what kind of damage does it typically cause? or is it more of a performance thing? Trying to connect the dots between that and the damage I experienced with the bearings coming through the side and the stripped retaining nut...or just know that t
Ok thanks that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure before I tore it apart further. Saw the bit about putting on loctite after I get the new pucks in there.Don't know how long it ran with the pucks gone/messed up, but hopefully didn't cause too much damage. I would have noticed it slamming into 2nd gear though right? I think that was what was happening right before it punched
So I'm attempting to repair my za50 and learning along the way thanks to all you folks, and youtube. I've attached a video of the 2nd gear all floppy like, which I would assume is not how it's supposed to be and probably an indication that I need new pucks? I couldn't tell for sure looking through the videos/tutorials I found. I'm just trying to nail down what parts I nee
So I dug in a little more, and the roller retaining nut not only won't thread onto the shaft (I know it's backwards), but the smooth "rolling" part has some scuffs in it that seems to prevent a smooth roll, and one of the rollers also has a little ding in it.So all together I know I at least need: side cover, smaller side cover bearings, rolling retaining nut, a few rollers and
Another question: considering my current za50 isn't in amazing shape (aside from this issue), would it be better/easier to just get another za50? Saw a few on ebay but don't know if they're any better than what I have (again aside from these issues). If this route makes sense, looking for recommendations on those to buy a za50 from, that would be in great, tested shape.
What exactly is the "gasket removed" method? Gotta say I'm getting a little lost here. I get the gist is, make sure the super specific distance is correct with shims and such. It's just hard to know where to start?
Hm ok. Yeah when I took the cover off, I accidentally ripped the old one. The one I put on was designed for za50 on treats but who knows could be. I appreciate the tip though, I really do want to figure out what caused it so it doesn't just happen if/when I replace the needed parts.
I tried hijacking a way old post about this same thing (happy to reference if needed) that I found via search, but I'm going to start a new one because I need all the help I can get, I'm still a little green on this sort of thing.Before this happened I noticed the transmission sort of "slipping" taking a few seconds to get into 1st but I was almost home and then I heard a piece
Haha yep, did notice it was old, just was trying to search to find solutions to my issue vs. just posting new. Had to dig back this far to find the same issue, but awesome to be able to find the EXACT same issue.
This SAME thing happened to my za50 yesterday. Bummer. More for curiosity: anyone know what may have caused this (for my sake and others with za50s)?The bigger question: is it worth rebuilding the za50 as laid out above with it in this shape or should I consider e50 which I've heard are more reliable? It's for a Magnum MKII though so no idea how it would fix both physically and performan
Keith curious if you ever figured out the issue? Thanks,
Going to revive this one a year later. What did you end up figuring out? I'm having a very similar issue with the taillight on my MKII (not LTD or UPS). I'm getting voltage grey wire to any brown ground point, proper 5w bulb (proper 10w for brake, 21w for head which both work). Know the 5w bulb works because it lights when I put it in the brake light spot. Took taillight assembly apart,
Guess it's only 2 bucks to find out? https://www.treatland.tv/light-bulb-6-volt-single-filament-p/light-bulb-6v-1.2w-ba7s.htm
I've clicked around the Wiki and old posts on this forum and learned a lot but to boil it down: if my speedo bulb is burned out that would throw off the voltage as each bulb acts as a resistor? Got on a bit of a rabbit trail wiring wise trying to figure out why my rear light is dead - the bulb looks fine and the brake light works. The speedo bulb is def burnt but has been for a while without
So...3 years later but where did you find it? I need a diagram for MKII (not UPS) and had the same problem with the link on the wiki.
Ok that makes me feel better about buying another. Also great idea shutting it off 50 yards before stop to empty. I usually just shut it off after I was stopped and settled.
So I bought an OMG petcock off ebay about 8 years ago and was just draining my tank and noticed it was leaking (small yet constant trickle). It should be completely dry in the off position right? Obvious answer right? I'm about to buy another off treats, just mainly curious if it is common for these to fail or if there's something I did to cause it that I can avoid. My ped also sat unuse
....If I had hundreds to spend haha. Good to know though.
Looks great but don't have that fender mount piece - wish I did. I'll make a bracket thanks everyone for the suggestions.
Thank you Ken for these awesome detailed instructions, worked like a charm. Finally got around to it after I got a block off plate. If anyone else is looking to do it was very easy.
So I just got this new pipe on treats (they said this would be the best fit), and while it fits great at the header, the mounting holes on the muffler are a little (up, over and back) off from the mounting holes on the frame. I figure this a matter of just rigging a metal plate up somehow to account for the difference or maybe bending the pipe a little? Thought I'd ask on here figured you all