Results 1–25 of 25
Old VW cases were a Magnesium alloy, both engine and transmission.Real bitch to weld with all the oil that soaks into it.
I like the darker beers, stouts are my favorite. I'm all for a nice oatmeal stout.But honestly dude, if your bringing awesome homemade beer to our rally, we'll love you for it no matter what it is.
Paz has it wired,I just had this issue with a couple people. A Tomos A35 and a E50.Don't Torque hot and the OEM studs tend to be stronger than what I'm seeing on the aftermarket side. Both had "new" studs from a parts vendor.A decent torque wrench on a cold engine solve this, period.
hmm,i don't know what the difference is with the case dimensionsthere are alot of factors to consider,btw, what were you doing to that bat with those monster bolt cutters?
yah,I realised that right after i hit post, hence the edit.the con-rod would have to be the correct length though for a puch crank offset though, right?good luck getting that to fit on the m56
Edit:The crank offset would need to be considered with the con-rod conversion as the crank offsets may be different between the puch and m56
i think the stroke is different, the puch i think is longer, so, if you have access to machine tools, you could shave the cylinder. however this will affect the port timing.which is another mess.Another better option might be pressing a puch stroke length con-rod with the same size lower end bearing as the m56 on an m56 crank and using a puch kit.An issue could be the stud spacing. I have no idea
Hmm,i see what your saying about the internal baffle cone,that would be pretty cool if you could get it tuned to react properly to exhaust gas pressure.though, the higher rpms would push the cone away from the cylinder, increasing the effective length. which reduces the effectiveness at high rpm.you would want the cone to travel towards the cylinder with increase in revs.as for my idea with the va
Or use a split cable like for oil injection to either slide the cone out. or actuate a valve.you could put a valve on the stinger, which acts as a pressure and heat bleed off.As the valve closes it will increase the mean temperature of the gases inside of the chamber, which will lead to increased wave speed and a shorter effective length. (optimised for high rpm)As it opens, temperature will decre
What someone else has for a stock puch 2hp cylinder could be different from yours. the exhaust open duration is mainly dependent on the port map, something could be varied between engine model years, so its not a sure thing.why not just measure it?the best way probably to pull the head and the flywheel cover, Spin the flywheel until the exhaust port opens, mark both the flywheel and the crankcase.
The torch has always worked for me, however if it fails, try drilling out the stud and using a screw extractor. (if you don't have one, get one, get a set, you'll never have to heli-coil again)Another option is grinding flats on the stud to help the vice-grips.
which morini engine? m01? m1?which model pacer? SS?i know for a fact that if everything is relatively clean and tuned, a stock SS with the m01 will do 30's.install a bigger carb and pipe, port match, shave the head, install the polini kit, if you can find it, trim the piston skirt. blahblah. read some of the general tuning posts in the performance forum. Alot of that stuff is applicable.
Pittsburgh, PA!Come enjoy the hills and bridges.
Nice one John,Dan is right about karma, I can't think of a better guy to grab a $125 TSM, especially if your gonna let it go to your roommate.The Ponies are rivaling SHS on the TSM front now. I guess we got to step our game up.
Thanks to all for coming out and riding with us.You guys are great guests and I certainly enjoyed having you here.We had a blast, blasted and got blasted.
Chief's is still there,still awesome.
Come enjoy giant sandwiches, cheap beer and the two stroke goodness only the Iron city can deliver.
My basement?There really aren't any moped shops in the immediate area.If you need something in particular, feel free to email me and I'll see what I can do.Also, if your in the Pittsburgh area, we ride every Thursday, let one of us know and we'll get you the info on when and where.
Mojo, I mentioned the gas access, it would require some thought but it's easy.!http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Oxblood999/IMG_0057.jpg!I'm still as ugly as ever but its just scars and busted teeth now. It was an awesome prom and I had a kick ass time, you guys put on another great one.Amanda, you owe me a crank cotter! Although, You should use it on your kick-ass Murray project. I
After my experience with Murray quality, I would recommend stripping any Murray down to the bare frame and inspect all the welds/braces carefully.The weld that broke on mine was a mess. It was completely porous and did not penetrate the steer tube at all on one side. The paint was hiding it nicely.If you have access to a welder I would probably re-weld EVERYTHING and add a top brace. This would re
Heres the one I made a few years ago. use it with two of the strongest bolts you can find to thread into the tapped holes on the gear and clutch. Slowly tighten the center bolt in stages while heating the gear then letting it cool. I would avoid torching the clutch to prevent any burning of the friction material.After a while it'll pop off. Be patient and don't break anything.!http://img
the m1 and m01 sprocket are the same.I have had the same trouble before, the m01 sprocket was difficult to remove while the m1 was pretty easy. I second the universal gear puller, also, In the morini manual there is a picture of a "universal gear puller" which i made out of two pieces of 3/8" square tube spaced 10mm apart welded to a 3/8 nut. grind the tip of a 3/8 bolt to a point,
Theres always Enco, decent selection of high quality precision tools and they're cheaper knockoffs.http://www.use-enco.comGrizzley handles a decent amount of metal working tools but does alot more wood working equipment.http://grizzley.com/MSC/J&L does alot of good metalworking tools and general industrial supply.http://metalworking.mscdirect.comin general mcmaster and grainger have most
same swingarm and chainguard as the pacers.i wonder if the motors were the same two options M01/M1 or if they had a different model?