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Yeah I mean if all you want is a speedo/ tach there's cheaper stuff out there, but if you can save a bit more $, want something that's not gonna break for a while, and has a lot of other helpful features a Trail Tech is the way to go.( Fair warning though, I haven't researched other alternative products for years so there could quite possibly be some other good stuff out there now)
Yep, it was the return spring. Got the gears pulled off and it was nowhere to be found behind there.Part# 223 121 on this diagram:I found this other helpful thread on the return spring:https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,1732459,1732583I'm going to be putting it back together without it; One less thing in the transmission to break at 50mph.
Learn to poop properly.Most everyone has the wrong form and it puts too much strain on the 'ol sphincter leading to blood vessels bulging and creating hemorrhoids. Humans weren't meant to defecate while sitting on a throne, we were meant to squat, the bowels don't line up properly otherwise and the muscles around Uranus don't work the right way.- Take a leg out of your pants an
. . . how do you reinvert your nuts on the seat while going into superman~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~It's uh... a difficult problem.Sometimes things work out, sometimes things get squished.
If the engine is actually dying from too rich mixture you've either got too much gas, not enough air, or something interfering with those.How long since the carb, intake, and air filter have been pulled and cleaned well? If the air filter is all gunked up that could do it.
It probably wouldn't hurt, but not sure if it'd help either.I think the different fluid mix + extra fluid is to let the clutch slip more before fully engaging. On a kitted bike with lots of power this will help with the shift into 2nd because it will let the motor rev up higher in 1st gear before shifting, so it will be higher rpm when entering 2nd gear, to keep the rpm's in the hig
Thanks, I'll have to pull the gears off and get a look at that return spring.Will post up some more pictures once I get into it.Would anyone know if the damage to second gear in the second and third pictures is bad enough to replace the gear, or if it could be ground down?
I noticed some nasty metallic noises coming from the engine/transmission area on my 65cc'd Tomos A35 and opened up the transmission. Found some metal bits (see pictures) and damage to first and second gears. Most of the damage seems to be on 3 consecutive teeth of second gear.This is my first time working on a moped tranny, so I kind of know what I'm looking at, but not quite what's
Also soak the tire in a hot water bath and hit it with a blowdryer while working it on to soften up the rubber and make it more pliable.
If one has the R&D money and time of a Yamaha or Honda for tweaking the tuning a boost bottle can help get a little extra power. Very finicky things though, will screw with your idle and might harm more than help.
Part of this is getting a headlight with a good beam pattern, too. Does no good to have a bright light if it doesn't have a focused beam that puts the majority of the light down the road where you want it.
I had a stripped stud on my Puch E50 and redid it with a stainless steel Helicoil. The hole will need drilled slightly larger, tapped and then have a Helicoil threaded in.Looks like it might be large enough already, could try skipping the drill part.
On the Murray make sure to take the carb off of the intake manifold and pull/cut out the plastic restrictor. They came with a 14mm Bing but it's choked down to 10mm or something with that piece of plastic in the intake.On the air filter side the stock box isn't bad if you want to keep it quiet, take off that big black piece of plastic, pull it apart and take out the plastic tube inside t
If you tune when it's really humid out you will end up tuned leaner when the humidity goes down. Same with heat, tune when it's really hot out and when it cools down you will be leaner (remember to upjet for winter!)
I've got one, included on my Trailtech Vapor (rpm, mph, head temp). The sensor goes in place of the crush washer on the sparkplug.Though I killed the sensor somehow (vibration?) and need to put on the replacement it came with.
Don't forget a decent high-flow air filter as well. It will depend what type of carb you're using which one you can get that will fit.Honestly you shouldn't have to order much of this from the US, there are probably lots of shops over there you can get this stuff from (I just don't know where to find them).<50cc.nl> should have most of what you need, though navigating the
What's your compression?Gas:oil ratio?
The biggest thing you'll notice will be the noise, it'll be much louder with a foam filter than the stock airbox.It's a good step towards other performance mods though, you might notice some change.For the needle, think about it like this, the larger the opening the more gas gets through (richer). So if you set the clip so that less of the needle covers the hole, it will be richer.
Open part of the C shape should face towards the engine (not the air filter)I think the next leanest needle would be a W12, but I'm just guessing from the needle size chart in the Wiki.
The tach on my Trailtech Vapor has a sensor wire that just wraps around the spark plug lead. Maybe this one can hook up that way too?Red side of the wire gets wrapped around the spark lead, black side of the wire gets bolted to a ground on the frame.
Where'd you mount the magnet for the sensor on the Trailtech Vapor? I've got one on my Tomos, just JBwelded it to the rear hub and ran the sensor wire along the swingarm.That thing is amazing.
I have this Trail Tech Vapor and it had the right cylinder head temperature sensor:Vapor Kit ATV: Yamaha Blaster 1987-02 75-2020Came with a black plastic clamp that worked to mount it to my bars, too.
Right you are, with the 4 petal block it points the intake straight up into the frame, with almost no clearance to even get the engine bolted back on, and nothing to add on to the intake to move the carb elsewhere.If you want to do 4 petal on Tomos you need to make a custom intake. I have the Malossi 4 petal and 21mm PHBG now, I'm trying to find some raw materials to make the intake. There
Dellorto PHBG's seem to run OK with a bit of forward angle (air filter pointed up). I'm not sure about if the air filter is pointing down, but anything that's not too extreme should work OK.Have you tried cleaning the carb (main jet especially) really well? If it runs better with the choke on that means it runs better with less air. So if your main jet has a blockage restricting it&
Yeah, if you want to cruise at 40mph you'll have to kit it.If you want to get some quick speed I believe most Murrays came with a Bing 14mm carb, 14mm intake, and a Puch Magnum style plastic air filter box with a metal mesh filter inside.There is a plastic restrictor in the intake making the hole maybe 8mm, you should be able to pull or drill it out. Also if you pull the black air box apart t
If you ask Treats which kit you're looking for he can probably source it.
Well, technically speaking the worse that could happen is that it flies apart and locks the engine hard at speed, and you crash and die.But it looks like a sweet set up, and I'm sure you'll test it lots at speeds low enough not to die :-)If it works amazingly, it would be awesome to be able to buy these through one of the online shops. <wink wink, nudge nudge>
By "without oil" do you mean 0 two-stroke oil in your gasoline or 0 transmission fluid?5-10 minutes with no two-stroke in your gas could do that.