Results 1–30 of 699
Hold the presses!New info I just stumbled on. It appears there was indeed some kind of ring originally installed on the variateur shaft to limit the travel of the movable pulley cheek.....They sell this ring on their website:https://mauger-moto.fr/epages/07497c7b-551b-48b5-a80a-938add7658ea.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/07497c7b-551b-48b5-a80a-938add7658ea/Products/MM251This issue has been a real he
Getting the left-hand threaded locknut off is a HUGE bitch without the right tooling. You either need an impact driver and a 35 mm socket or special tooling and a good vise I have none of these. Here is the process:So, I took the variateur to a mechanic friend and he got the left-hand threaded locknut off pretty fast with said pneumatic impact driver and an assistant. The normal-threaded fixed che
Got some input from a bloke I know in the UK:"The moving cone is moving out too far and running off the end of the pins. Definitely not right by a long way.Needs stripdown and at least the washer taken out behind the fixed cone.Back nut is LH thread *very important.Fixed cone is standard RH thread, but needs to be undone with a chain wrench , and we heat by oxy-acetylene to heat and release t
Okay, upon further inspection it appears that the fixed pulley cheek....wasn't so fixed. It's somehow slipped closer to la moteur....thus, allowing the moving cheek to ride too far from variateur housing.......FUCK!You can see the silver score mark on the shaft where the fixed cheek should be located:So, I'm pulling the variateur (a bitch job in itself) to take a look behind and see
> pat splat wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> You can add a shim between cheeks. Wider belt or taller rollers.ThxWhere can I get these materials?
Here are few more shots. Normal position of the fork of the moving pulley halve low gear (not variated). The pin from the variator housing located inside the fork normally:Now, here is the position the variator gets stuck in fully variated. The fork move nearly completely past the pins and hangs up:One of the 3 rollers can also come out of it slot and jam the variator fully open....this has happe
Hi Folks,I installed a new variator on a rebuilt AV7 motor in 60' Mobylette Tourisme. Rode it for about a month with no issues. Now the little bastard sticks in high-gear (the belt rides at the top of the pulley) and then actuates suddenly upon deceleration, causing the moped to lunge from the sudden motor braking.....Near as I can tell, the "fork" in the black sliding pulley halve
> pat splat wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> So what happens when crank seals leak is it will let in air n lean your> mixture out. Replace by operation crank seal. You can check by running> it w choke on, spray fuel into carb or closing off half the intake etc> by enrichening the mix the motor will run.Hi Pat,I rebuilt another motor from the botto
> Brian F Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> I've found an ultrasonic cleaner to be really helpful at cleaning out> tiny passages in some carbs.Hi Brian,The Frenchies actual boil the little fucker in pure vinegar. I may give this a shot.Thanks for the feedback.T.O.
Hi Aaron,Agreed. Gurtner are absolute shit. Extremely fiddly little bastards. Yeah, I've considered the Dellorto and may do this.I took the bike to a local guru in a nearby town who actually runs a classic moped shop:https://mauger-moto.fr/epages/07497c7b-551b-48b5-a80a-938add7658ea.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/07497c7b-551b-48b5-a80a-938add7658ea/CategoriesI mean this dude is like a serious M
Timing's good. 1.5 mm before TDC for the AV89. Thanks for the suggestion.T.O.
Any ideas? She still down.I replaced the float bowl cover and the float needle. No improvement.Fires right up. Will not idle without dying after slight warmup. Sluggish acceleration/lag from stop...top end performance good with good throttle response at high speed.Here is a great cut away of the H14:Any feedback appreciated.TO
Hi Folks, been a while.I have a 60/61 Mobylette AV89 Grande Tourisme "Chaudron" Fully restored it a few years back including a rebuilt Gurtner H14. Ran great up until recently.Bike starts normally but dies after warm up and upon deceleration to a stop. I can keep her running by fanning the throttle. From a stop, I fully open the throttle...the engine lags, then finally catches and has
A LOT cleaner…..I wish I would have discovered this product/tecnique years ago. Surprised it's so uncommon outside of motocross circles….Check the internet and you should find some.For the benefit of newbies reading this: To remove an installed chaine, I attach an old chaine to the master-link and pull it out from the sprocket end, leaving the old spare in it's place. Once the serviced c
Okay, good deal it looks like the cylinder is fine then.Thanks!
Okay, take a look:Viewing the cylinder from the head side looking towards the crankcase I found what looks like "pitting" on the inside cylinder surface….. The pitting is not deep because I cannot feel anything running my finger over it. Note: the pitting only occurs at the top of the cylinder above the ports…..1. What is this pitting and what caused it?2. Is the cylinder still good and
Thanks for the feedback Reb :-) I am a bit new to these kind of mods, I'm not completely clear on things like duration of the ports, what the chrome horn is, etc. Please provide any links showing the processes you described if you can. I'd like to keep the original head but I understand what your saying about the cooling….. In other words, my goal is a stock "looking" origin
Okay, got the case split with the help of a small plumbers torch. Heated the cases around each bearing starting with the variator side. Once that was off I did the magneto side. I was very careful not to heat up the crankshaft itself…...This is the technique recommended in the Manual but thanks everyone for the feedback.One main bearing seems good, the other rolls a bit rough but that might just b
She's down. What measurements do you need?
So I cracked open the big tin of Putoline…..reminds me of a giant tin of Kiwi Shoe Polish. Jet black but softer and not crumbly. I clean some moped and bike chains in petrol. Then heated up the wax on a camping stove until it melted and soaked the chaines for about 15 minutes to allow the was to penetrate. I attached labeled wires to each chain in order to avoid getting burned fishing them outand
You are welcome Ishmael ;-) I guess you could say my world is pretty mysterious….I'm kind of like the star of my own single shooter role playing game…but it's not a game….Here are few shots from a recent trip to Morocco, moped capital of the world. Nice place but nothing to lose your head over….:
I gave the moteur a preliminary cleaning and tore it down. Moteur is in GREAT condition, even the coils! Really quality and obviously built to last!So far haven't seen any damage, cracks, major wear but I have not put a micrometer on it yet. I'll take a closer look.I'm planning to change the following;crankshaft bearingscrankshaft sealspiston wrist pin (if needed)piston wrist needl
Public Applause:Actors, musicians, performers, politicians, and other such professionals etc. put a lot of effort into seeking and gaining mass public approval/appreciation. So for the rest of us slobs who live thankless lives out of the spotlight an un-solicited public display of approval can really be a pleasant surprise.So I was down at the beach surfing last weekend on a lovely sunny day. The
Thanks Reb,I would like to keep the stock exhaust. Is their some mod I can do to the baffles inside? The H14 carb is already pretty decent, would and SHA 15-15 make much of a difference? Any kind of port work I can do to increase the flow, etc?Near as I can tell the simplest is just to increase the cubic centimeters via some kind of bore kit, larger piston and sleeve……make the engine a 75 cc….What
Thanks for the feedback gents. The moteur is sitting on my workbench ready for cleaning and initial inspection. After I get the grease and oxidation off of the case I will begin tear down and post some photos.T.O.
My fully re-built stock 1960 AV89 "Chaudron" will do 60 kph with my 10 year old on the back. It will also haul two adults no prob. She'll do 75 kph with just me in a crouch so this bike is neither slow nor feeble for a puny 50 ccs……..I picked up a spare moteur to toy with. Its an original 1960 AV89 motor so it's got the big ports, high compression, etc. I will fully re-build it
Merci for the input Reb. I do not recall the notch on the piston skirt. I changed the segments/rings and inspected the rest, it looked good. No, I did not change the api seals on the crank shaft, nor give her a leak down test. I will try and do this per your wiki page. The engine only has approx 6K Kms so not a lot….just fact that it's from 1961….That said, I did find this odd charing on the
Hi folks,The AV89 is running pretty good. I re-timed it for the 3rd time, this time using a multi-meter so it's about as dialed in as I can get it, 1.5 mm btdc per Moby original spec. Starts right up, idles nicely. No throttle lag when the bike is underway.However, there is still some throttle lag opening up the throttle from idle and the engine will kill sometimes. Also, the engine seems to
Found the nipple on top of the spark plug loose….. Tightened and now the new old-school plug cap is on rock-solid. Test-ride. This was not the problem.Tore down the carb for the 4th time and changed the clip position again on the float needle. Test-ride. This was not the problem.Checked all grounds and wires….good here.Took off the magneto bell, checked the points and all the wires (again)….still
Thanks. I have the covers off and it's not the fuel line…….but I will double check. Just maddening…...