Results 1–30 of 345
I'd like to avoid parting it all out on ebay.This bike is not running.crank froze from not ride.Engine needs to be taken apart.I have 2 other 50 cc cylinders with multiple pistons and ringsa brand new 77cc (piston and rings)soooo many gasketsI have NOS clutch assemblyNOS spokes and nipplesMultiple side covers and knobs that attach themMultiple head light buckets with perfect NOS speedomultipl
Tomos SprintThis bike runs, kicks first start, idle fine.Spanking NEW PARTS:alukit 70 ccmalosii 4 petal reed blockweakends pipe (sawed to fit phbg)phbgtecno circuit pipepetcokfuel linegas capgripsleather lined clutches !!!!!!!!!!plug wiretank has been sealed with caswellNever seized.clutches grab well (can even do wheelies)...It has a leak in the seal behind the sprocket lubing up the seal that ne
My Tomos starts first kick and rides and idles well.I can ride it all day.I have a problem at WOT where the bike jumps / lurches / surges for a few seconds then stops. Sometimes it will do it until I let off of the throttle, sometimes I go WOT for 10 minutes and nothing happens. It never cause it to shut off, it just acts like it needs fuel.It doesn't feel to me the same way lean and rich b
I have a Puch Top Racing Crank.Yes it works, if you kit your puch, you probably need an upgraded crank.The tranny side needs a new bearing (I put the wrong one on it).In exchange I need new shocks for my tomos step through.I would prefer something beefier than stock ones, but let me know what you have to trade.
actually that tomos would look real sweet if the back of the seat wasn't raised.
At rest, the clutch pad material shouldn't be in contact grabbing the bell.That is about all.If there is a mm difference either close or away, that is just a fraction of a second more or less that the clutch takes to make contact or not.It basically means you won't notice.
You can get into an e50 tranny in 10 minutes.Just lay your back at a 45 degree angle and all the oil will go back into the case.This way you can reinstall the clip, and adjust the clutch as you tune.Saves all the time from draining and refilling oil every time.
clean it out, then seal it.don't use kreme.por15 or caswell (I always use).will never rust again.
what kind of air filter do you have?When you get moving, can you max it out?If so what does your plug look like?double check leaks, do it again, then again.make sure your timing is not too advanced or retarded.Your main jet does influence your idle some, but the idle jet could be a bigger problem.Also (if you are new to phbgs)...check the wiki, it has a picture of what I'm talking about, and
both those points were great advice.I have a push start maxi with high compression.I only push start with the wheel locked from the get go...the second it rolls, it will start.
I've been riding my maxi for sooo long.It's a slips up until like 20 mphthis tomos has some torque.pullin wheelies style.
My maxi hits 64 mphverified from gps and trail tech speedoIt's a rocket from 30 mph on. . .polini with port workpolini 4p with dual layer reedsphbg 19treats cdi3 shoe (with work done)simonini15x36here is how I first built it:and here it is now with some different wheels, no storage seat, etc...
If you really needed a quick and permanent fix, then you would've read my first post, done your research, and then realized you are doing too much work to get too little of a result.Yes, clean your tank out.Then seal it.There are a bunch of brands, however, you should really stick to something like caswell or the por15 tank sealer.The sealer takes 1 or 2 days to dry depending on temperature,
scrap the cork.it won't last.find the big thread about doing clutches yourself.my suggestion is that you do some research, then buy chrome leather from mcmaster and epoxy it on there yourself.then blast while knowing your clutch will now last for a long ass time
problem solved.The gun I was using to try and set the cdi had to be funky.whether i put the cdi at full advance or retard, all my marks always showed in same spot.Got timing right.80 jet in.oh my god fast (i have a polini geared tall and am not used to all the redic low end)
malossi, the squareish one.use the same one of my maxi/polini and was wonderous.
So here is my situation:I have a very low top speed. Maybe 25 mphI can't really feel if it's 4 stroking (atleast not how my maxi feels, which is very obvious)I'm working on the jetting now.When I look at the wiki, everyone has a way higher jet then what I have now.My plug is dark, which is telling me to down jet.I figured I'd post what I have and see what some people think.aluk
it's around 1964. I can tell by the engine and the fact that it still has the old style forks. I have a yj1 which shares a lot of very similar qualities to this.
read up on the tach readings.everyone is different.might get some interference, some have to wrap more and some less.Some people do better on the 1 setting, others on the 2.As for the speedo, it's up to how crafty you are.I have non stock wheels on my maxi and so I made a bracket that bulted onto my rear hub, and have the magnet on the rear gear.worked like a charm for me.
Panther pink.black powder coatsome parts black and sparkles (need to see up close)
just seal it, will save you a lot of time and work.I suggest using caswell and not the other brands though.You can do some reasearch on that.In the end it will be like having a new tank.
just to be careful:use carb cleaner to spary head, base, and intake at idle to make sure you have no air leaks.on your carb, make sure your float is set correctly and engaging / disengaging properly.Get a new plug, run on WOT for a few minutes....shut the bike off at WOT, pull over and do plug test. What color is it?That is going to tell you whether you are fine, need to up or downjet.If you are
That is the exact same thing I just posted about :)the difference is, I normally seal all my tanks with caswell.I already have the instant gas tank fix (some sort of putty/epoxy) drying on the outside.I'll caswell it in a few days and then should be good to go.Thanks for the verification!
The leak is small enough to where I cam up with this current plan...instant gas tank repair on outside to plug leak.caswell inside of tank (could of used it anyway).that should fill this little leak.
I can dump the tank and let it air dry a few days.That is no biggie.I was just making sure I could mig this... I have a few friends with crappy mig welders so yeah.
So i was grinding on the seam to make clearance for my intake (which turns out I didn't even need to do in the first place).I got overzealous and went a little too far, now I have a drippy leak.the leak is coming from the seam itself and I can see the exact spot.Would I be able to hit that hold with a shitty mig welder?or is this a job where I'll have to pay somebody to tig it to fill in
Iamcrkt is definitely right.You don't need threadlock.It's not the slick oil.Built a shit ton of e50s, never had this problem.Put in a piston stop, then hit the nut with the correct amount of torque, or just torque it on there.Only way it will then come off is with, again, the piston stop and torque. . . .
Polini is my favorite kit. hands down.Lot of people fuck theirs up. that is for sure.Do your homework on this, and then retune your bike correctly.You will then have a ripper that is built like a tank.Lots of people shred theirs soo hard everyday and don't think twice about seizing or anything going wrong (I am one of them).If Wayne told you to look at something, treat it like gold.Also learn
sounds lean.go to the wiki and look how to correctly jet.you can cure the problem by possibly putting on stock air box.or you could upjet and then tune your carb.