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In response to folks digging through VERY OLD posts looking for camino mags (I just received another query today) - these are SOLD (long ago). I apologize for not posting a SOLD.I recall working out a deal with a euro seller, person to person. I don't know the who.
I use this tool:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1752Has worked great so far . . . .
Thinner single stage reeds are better for low end.Thicker single stage reeds are better for high end.Thinner single stage reeds don't reliably close (they flutter) at high RPMs.Thicker single stage reeds can be too stiff to open well at low RPMs.The dual stage reeds are intended to give the best of both worlds, by allowing thicker reeds than would be used if the reed was a single stage design
Try your local auto parts store for acid.Did you buy a battery with the proper connector? If not, you'll need to make a jumper, or splice two wires together.
The air screw adjusts the idle mixture ONLY.Is your carb squeaky clean? The midrange mixture is controlled partly, if not mostly by the emulsion tube. It has drillings that let air in. If you really want to try and tune this out, you could incrementally drill an opening larger than stock. I recall that the tube has four air holes - so you could do the bottom two. The only problem is - if you
Well, my Hobbit doesn't "shift" into the notched range until slightly over 30 MPH. So . . . the PA50I weights could be too light (definitely on the edge).
Do the bearings still fit in the case (without any slop)?
Stock PA50II weights are heavy enough to fully open a notched variator.Check your notches - are they wide enough for the weights to pass through? Did you leave the small ramps at the end of the variator?Rear pulley: it could be the wear notches, but it also could be - that it's just resisting the additional movement. Can you, by hand, fully open the rear pulley? If not, see the wiki, and t
I bought mine straight from Boyesen. Lucky for you they are sold is sets of two. Treats breaks them apart to sell them separately.
Last time I checked - westernhillshondayamaha had PA50I weights in stock.
Based on my assumption that you know how to adjust the rear wheel to achieve proper belt tension . . . I'd say replace your belt. It sounds like you've tried everything except replacing the belt. Just guessing - but it may be possible that the belt is contaminated (maybe the grease soaked in?). Anyway, clean the pulleys thoroughly before you put a new (or a good used) belt on.
I'd say between 27 and 30 MPH (based on my past experience with the same setup).
Yes, you need a larger jet - a 92 would be in the ballpark.You should also consider notching your variator, too.
There's no down-side to just removing it . . . .Care to share your reasoning . . . ?
I just remove my air inlet tubes. You don't need them. They are only there for noise reduction. If you're running an aftermarket pipe - you won't here it.
When using a rope, the force exerted on the piston is spread out over the surface of the piston.When using a bolt, it will contact the piston at a point, or a very narrow area, due to the dome shape of the piston.Personally, I'd be worried about damaging the piston using a bolt. Maybe it would be fine - it's not something I'm willing to try . . . .
The PA50 does not have an adjustable base plate.Set the gap per the specs - and you'll be timed.Certainly differing gaps will affect timing. If you're in doubt, set the gap, and use a timing light.
When I modified my PA50I variator, I actually used an air cut-off tool (a 3-1/2" cut-off wheel). I just went slow - starting opposite the existing flat - ground some off - paused and did a test fit (holding the ramp plate against the variator to check for angle of grind) - then continued. If you go slow, and are careful, I don't see how you can get it wrong.
My 2 cents:First, I don't recommend that you grid your crankshaft. I personally wouldn't dare grind my crankshaft end - unless I had it in a lathe, and I had good dimensions to use. I don't have the dimensions, and I haven't seen them posted either (mainly the length of the crank to the end of the relief needed for the PA50II bearing sleeve).Second, lacking specific experienc
Most likely - the main jet only controls fuel mixture from 3/4 to full throttle.
As you've noted, the material is coated with a rubber-like material on the sealing surfaces - acting like a built-in o-ring. Regardless, I have had one that are "too flattened" - that have lost the resiliency to be used without some sealant.
Yeah, what he said.My setup - a lightly ported stock cylinder with a LeoVince exhaust. The powerband down low took a hit, but the mid and upper ranges are much stronger. With a notched variator - with stock PA50II weights, full variation would happen much too quickly (meaning at too low of an engine RPM), so my "middle of speed range" acceleration would be hurt. By using the lighter v
I added a picture to the wiki (actually modified an existing picture) - to help show how deep the notches need to be.Midrange could be affected - depending on the weights that you are running. I'm using PA50I weights right now, and it won't shift (into the notched area) till I'm over 30 MPH. If I were using stock PA50II weights, it would be shifting much sooner - hence the "m
This yellow Malossi rear spring doesn't fit the Honda Camino's either.The Camino's upgrade rear pulley (1985+) measure as follows:3-5/16" tall1-13/16" outside diameter1-1/2" inside diameterFYI.
I don't mind getting "dissed" when it is appropriate.On one hand, there is a picture in the wiki which clearly shows that the weights are held in by the plate - if one were to look at it, and to understand what it shows you. I put the picture there just for this very reason (the question being asked before).On the other hand, it is probably true that there's not a lot of "
Search, search, search.Yes - a lot have done it. It works. Weights stay in.
RE: TJT variator: search, search, search.
*I used honda dio clutch springs and they killed it, literally sheared the crank.*There's no way that clutch springs caused the crank to break. Your crank had to already have been cracked/weakened before the clutch springs were installed. Heck, people have failed cranks with stock clutch springs, too.Cranks get cracked when: people beat on the variator (with a hammer/chisel/screwdriver) to
RE: clutch springs. I agree: search, search, search. Plus, use the wiki.RE: ramp plate. The stock ramp plate can't be used on the TJT variator . . . .
Just modify your PA50I variator to accept the TJT ramp plate. It's easy to do. Go to the wiki - its under *Honda PA50I or PA50M Performance (or lack thereof - and what you can (or can't) do about it)* section.The bushing sizes are also in the wiki http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Honda_PA_Model_Differences.The wiki is your friend.