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I don't have that tool to take off the crank armsUse a hammer to get the pin out. It's tapered and it's jammed in there really tight and it's a huge pain, but you can do it. I recommend unscrewing the nut on the pin so that it's level with the end of the pin, then using the hammer. If gives you a bigger target and makes it harder to mess up the threads on the pin.
Since the "A52" wiki page redirects to the A35 page, I assume that's saying that A52 really just means A35.You might get some useful info out of the repair manual.There's a Targa manual here and a generic A35 manual here. Those will probably tell you how much fluid to add (so you can make sure you didn't add too much or too little), and they should have exploded diagrams t
I took the can of carb cleaner/ starter helper. And took off the air cap and sprayed it inOk, so that's problem #1. If you want to properly clean your carb, you have to actually remove and disassemble the carb, and use carb cleaner (not starting fluid, not WD40, not anything that isn't labeled "carb cleaner") and thoroughly spray out every. single. part. Yes, it's annoying
Your carburetor, the intake, the exhaust, the head or cylinder, the air filter, or (worst case scenario/unlikely) some part of the engine/cases.Wiki: Fred's GuideWiki: Air leaksAlso, I assume most people on here use flat view, right? You can switch from threaded to flat by clicking on the "flat view" link at the top of the page, kind of under the "Events" tab. You can read
Ok, first, since all your old posts got bumped and there was never any resolution on any of them ... was it working fine before yesterday? Did it develop this issue overnight, over the winter, or while you were riding it? Did you change anything on it right before it started having this issue?If you only changed the spark plug, that shouldn't have caused this issue, unless either (a) you didn
I want to learn its just not easy. Every time my dad sees me trying to work on it he gets mad saying I'm going to break it and then locks it away for around 2 weeks and takes away all my tools.Do me a favor and tell your dad to bugger off. Yes, of course you're going to break it. Then you're going to fix it (or you would, provided that you ever got any help here). That's how y
When you go to put it back together, get some stainless allen bolts. They're easier to put in, easier to take out, and look very nice and shiny. And yeah, I had to use a handheld impact driver like the one pictured above, probably with an extension for the really deep screws. And I also second that PB Blaster works better than WD40 for this kind of thing.
If it works ok when it's cool but dies or loses spark when it gets warmed up, that's a sign of a bad condenser. I always put an external condenser on my Tomoses so they were easier to change out (one of mine seemed to burn through them ever year or so), but given that it's been 7 years since I posted this and probably 4 years since I really touched a moped, I have literally zero ide
Yes, really.I have an old scummy Tomos that I want to make run. It used to have an Encarwi and it worked great, except that it never idled at anything less than half throttle (whatevs, it adds character). I took the bike apart a long time ago and lost the carb, and now I want a new one. I suspect that a Batavus Encarwi with an idle screw would fit and be superior to the standard Tomos Encarwi, but
Anyone know the Best site to find Every reg necessary for traveling state to state ? I just looked at moped2.org yesterday and I think it's good.The wiki is pretty good.Moped Laws
The Grande parts manual has pages that say "version with 20mph top speed", "version with 25mph top speed" and "version with 30mph top speed" in the safety/passing section. It mentions stuff about a 50-60 mph pass, but I think it only mentions that to say that the moped isn't capable of passes like that.
To respond to the question you didn't ask: Have you researched the crap out of that scooter? We generally tell people to stay away from chinese scooters, but as has been noted about 5 times above, we're not scooter people. If you haven't already, I suggest that you track down a good scooter forum and read some reviews and ask questions to make sure that you're getting something
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Woodruff_keyScroll down to the second section for info on the pin.
This probably needs pictures, but...http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Install_an_external_condensor_on_a_Puch
After you remove the clutch cover, the retaining ring, the plate thing under the retaining ring, the nut over the clutch, the clutch, and all intermediate circlips, then yes, you can easily pull the drum off of the crankshaft. The main gear meshes with the gear on the clutch drum, but it doesn't prevent removal in any way.
There are instructions here. Just don't take the engine off the bike, don't take the top end off, and and don't split the case halves. Just do the parts with taking off the clutch cover, removing the retaining ring and the cover, and etc. Use a piston stop to get the nut off, and use a clutch puller to get the clutch off the crank. And use circlip pliers where there are circlips.
also could you please tell me what the rectangle thing with holes is on the blue wire coming off the magnetoThis?If so, that's a wire connector. Or rather, the brass/metal part is. The black plastic thing around it is just a protector for the connector. If you want to buy new ones, they're readily available at Radio Shack, hardware stores, on Amazon, Harbor Freight, WalMart, auto parts
Blue is for your brake lights. It connects to a grey wire that goes to front brake switches and to a grey wire that goes to your brake light bulb. It's been a while, and I switched some wire colors, but I'm pretty sure that one is important. Like, "your moped won't run if you wire it wrong" important.This thing?On Puchs, you just "screw" (screw/push" the spa
Which wiring diagram are you trying to use? Or more specifically, are you trying to wire it up stock (brake lights, head light switch, horn switch, horn), or are you attempting to remove or simplify some of those features (remove horn, wire headlight on all the time, etc)?So that green wire on your top row goes to ground, right? And you left the stator plate and the wires coming out of it alone --
I've got a cleaned up and combined version of the MRA's manual too.http://projectmopedmanual.info/Manual_HTML/yamaha.html(Mostly I just straightened pages. Their copy is actually pretty clean. I made my own scan of the owner's manual though. The illustrations in it are hilarious.)
If the person whose name is on the title signed it as the seller, and nobody else has signed it as the buyer, you can sign it as the buyer, take it to the DMV in KS and get it registered in your name. Note that if the owner signed the title a long time ago (dated it a long time ago), it'll be assumed that you've owned it since they "signed it over to you", and you may owe a fee
The throttle type is a good point -- there are two (at least two) different kinds of stock Puch throttles. Some of them have a set screw, so to install the cable onto the throttle assembly, you thread the cable through a hole in the throttle assembly, and use a small screw to clamp down on the cable, holding it in place. This kind of throttle assembly uses a single-ended cable (so there's a n
Did you ask the motorcycle shop for a "Puch Maxi brake cable"? If so, that's your problem. Any generic motorcycle cable will work -- just bring in the old one so you get the length and the end nubs right or close to right. If the cable is too long, you can always cut it and knarp it.But either way, Treats has them and ships them fast and is generally awesome in every other way.
Awesome work!I also added it here: http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/List_of_wiring_diagrams#Honda
Yeah, I sent him a PM to put it on my site.I don't think it's "illegal" to put 1977's version online. If 1977 was still selling them, I for sure wouldn't do it (I think it's great that they got them scanned and were making it easy and cheap for all of us to get that info, and I wouldn't want to take business away from them), but since they don't have th
So much fail/incomplete info in the wiki when it comes to puch timing and engine rebuilding.So why don't you spend some time making it better instead of complaining about it? "I don't know how" isn't an excuse. If you can figure out mopeds, you can figure out the wiki. The help pages are really good, and if those aren't good enough, you can always ask me for help, or
Stephen -- if that's a "no" to me, why don't you take the time to write enough words to enlighten me as to how I'm wrong? I can only tell people things to the best of my knowledge, and I don't know everything. I try to explain things the way I wish they had been explained to me; if you know something I don't, share it, and we'll all be better off.And Orion -
How about we quit thinking about timing as "full advance" or "full retard" and just measure it properly? I'm beginning to think this is like women going clothes shopping ... just because you think you're a size 6 doesn't mean that a size 10 (gasp!) can't fit you perfectly, and just because you've been told that "full advance" will blow up your
Exactly what Jake said.Your timing could be spot-on. It could be terribly off. All you know right now is that the stator plate is rotated as far as it will go in one direction. Timing is a measurement of the piston's location in the cylinder when the spark plug fires, not a measurement of stator plate rotation. To be sure, the stator plate rotation and the point gap can both drastically chang
Holy shit, redundant condensers? I want to be you.This.