Results 1–30 of 883
i like it.if you used a clutch with an outer pressure plate, you could push on it instead of pull. and a small hydraulic slave might do the job discreetly.typically a clutch like the one pictured would have the actuator on the clutch side and use a lever arm or ramped plate instead of a clutch pushrod (or pullrod in this case)
how do you know it isn't getting spark - using inductive or in-line tester?
how are you able to find motobecane parts but not peugeot?anyways like sonettguy said just go to treatland.tv
OK cool, thanks for the info.that black wire is the ground side of the primary winding on your HT coil (? i think ?)so the brake light switch circuit (normally closed) acts as your ground for ignition, as well as feed to brake light switch. so when you open the switch, the ignition finds ground through the bulb and lights it up. so with a blown bulb, it acts as a kill switch. some have additional
2 coil or 5 coil?on a 5 coil stator the black wire kills your bike when grounded. you have it backwards. black is connected to hot side of points. so grounding it shorts the points.disconnecting the black wire at the bars. will take the variable of the kill switch out of the equation.do the diagnostics you plan on. clean your points. check your HT wire and boot, and coils.and a new condenser is a
If you want accuracy - whatever method you use for static timing- finish the job off with a strobe light.the map is not the territory!
OK!so i made a quick die à la baird. used 5/16" flat steel stock and twist drills. lined them up and tightened in a vice - et voila!to single crimp shows the die line, but it doesn't offend me enough to not do it. i think it does look classier than the hex, and I work on enough antique motorcycles to justify this style. so I'm going to proceed by making up some tooling to do all the
pat is correct is noticing that that tool is in fact a cable housing ferrule hex crimping tool.they are not trying to pull one over on ya, because that is the tool, and what it does. it is a cable housing ferrule crimping tool that crimps the cable housing ferrules in a hexagonal die.i did not realize the importance of the particular style of cable housing ferrule crimp design, so i apologize.I l
good lord.Cable housing ferrule crimping tool
so is the peugeot spoken for or what
factory service manual.impact drivers on built up cranks isn't great, but I've done it enough in the past to be a hypocrite.
in addition to aaron's info: if your belt is loose, it could slip if and when you get the starter shoes to engage the bell. sometimes the nut on the engine spring thrust bolt is too tight (against the swingarm cross bracket above the engine), bottoming out and preventing belt tension. and make sure you have a proper length belt.
yeah but what if it turns out it's water in the gas from the ethanol
we have raced an mb5 without a balance shaft for a few seasons with no ill effects.
> pat splat Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> The more i read this^ the better of a solution it sounds. Would also> make lining in the clutch pack easier too for sandwiched install. But> wouldnt welding give better hold?I tend to use silicon bronze more than er70s in GTAW for motorcycle stuff. especially on thin wall tube, sheet metal, and if you can
kubota? forklift? ktm? ninja?the world wants to know!I like this because it is old, but i wish it was, like, a little weirder looking.
damn. are you bringing this to mike's?
showed up for the creative problem solving and helpful suggestion part, and stayed for the using the right tool to get the job done part.+1 for follow up and photos.standard issue expected trash talking about who even knows, that never actually goes anywhere - unlike this small project.props to the nerd who helped you because it is interesting, and he probably recognized that your wheel wasn'
that thing is in amazing shape, not too common. I agree with dave^.its a little too nice, definitely collectable grade.
get the D washer that sits inboard of the bell (against the crank) bronze welded to the bell. this should increase the thrust surface area. never done it, but I think the theory is sound.along with your power increase (this transmission was designed for <2 HP) aggressive clutch tuning and erratic throttle operation will also make this problem worse.
Man if you were out East I could do it. have a 25" gap bed and a brake lathe - you said you were tapping bike and machine shops, but try a hotrod shop or old car club. a brake lathe should be able to sneak in there.At least those machines are so underused that there is a better chance of finding one to make the tool holder work (in case the drum is too small for the standard holder) vs any ma
stock are 15/32" but i found some 12mm Si3N4 and they work.
on top of Moped GP East running in syracuse & cuddebackville, the USCRA has a 50cc class and we race at NHIS Loudon, and Canaan Motor Club in NH.NJMINIGP which runs at a number of tracks in the northeast just updated their class architecture by splitting F1 into F1 and GP120. GP120 being GP chassis / mini race bikes, and F1 being NON-"GP Chassis" so basically mopeds/scoots/and kids d
I would machine it concentric.certainly affordable peace of mind.
something like this:https://www.treatland.tv/buzzetti-micrometer-p/buzzetti-ignition-micrometer.htmit acts as a LIGHT piston stop to come up against while locking rotor down, and finds tdc easily.and/or find a good way to lock the clutch bell, or otherwise work the other side of the crank so nothing budges when you put the rotor on.timing light is a great tool too, shows how accurate your process
your symptoms sound like late ignition timing.what method are you using to establish top dead center?check your timing again, and maybe your process as pat suggested.make sure to also check that your top dead center mark ( >3/4") still corresponds, not just that points open at notch. any rotation of the crank during the process will alter timing.highly suggest a micrometer ignition gauge.
That stator looks different because you have the upgraded 5-coil star Magneto.that is good.notch is your mark.what did you set the timing to?