Results 1–30 of 165
Ned Renner — 1 year ago
Thanks. Will recheck wires and focus on insuring that the regulator is grounded.
Ned Renner — 1 year ago
Good advice and apologies, it’s an A35 Targa LX not A3 engine. Will check for dry solder joints as that has been an issue I’ve seen on other circuits this old. Will also check grounds but does anyone know where the brown wire from regulator actually attaches to the frame? I have heard something supporting what Slew said about getting the ground/voltage dump connection further from the draw of t
Ned Renner — 1 year ago
Could an inline fuse work to stop my longterm issue of headlight blowouts? Regulator replacement did not cure it. No issues found in wires. If I put a fuse on each of the low and high beam hot wires, might that work? If so, what amp rating for each wire going to separate 35 watt filaments in the 12 volt system?
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
6 volt bulbs are hard to find and auto stores usually don’t stock them. Myrons Mopeds has the best selection I’ve seen. Just got some 6V 5Watts that should work in a 3 Watt application. A 12 volt bulb will pull more power and take it from other bulbs in the circuit. LED’s want DC electricity and most mopeds produce AC. The LED won’t last long.
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
Thanks Nick, yes it’s sparse here. I’ll try your buddy. I could probably help John but am full up on projects at present.
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
Anyone in the surrounding area interested in a ride/meet? COVID compliant. My bike is stock, ie not fast.
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
Thanks, they were out of them when I shopped.
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
Thanks Pat, good article.
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
It could be the magnetto but is more likely something less expensive, like a bad ground or bad switch. Check site below for a simple picture of the electrical diagram of your bike and determine if there is electricity coming from the magnetto. Check moped army’s Wiki and the link to the article I just posted to help with diagnosing the issue. A cheap continuity light and multimeter are great to
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
I always dread electrical problems because electricity intimidates me and wiring diagrams strike instant confusion. Stumbled on a great article on Myrons Mopeds site that sort of got me over the hump. It’s in his Tomos section but is generally applicable to mopeds.http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/service/new-tomos-electrical/
Ned Renner — 2 years ago
The brake lights were always on and the rear running light off. Checked for a short or burnt bulb at the taillights but found none. Moved the wire harness around without success. Pulled off the rubber housings at the front brake light switches and found that two wires to one switch were touching from their being pinched together where the female connections attach to the switch. Thought that w
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
I like the idea, will take a caliper to the store and find a bottle that works.
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
Thanks, got it, will give this a try.
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
PD, How did you make the modification, Dremel tool, sand paper?
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
Thanks to all. Heat helped but once the part cooled it shrank and pulled off at the bottom. Even when this part was a new replacement it was a difficult to fit. I read about the hot water + wintergreen solution but think the heat part is its basis. Had an old Yamaha mc with a similar issue and heat put the air tube back securely. If the opening where the available boots meet the carb we'
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
See pic. These connect the Dellorto 14.12 carbs to the air box on the Tomos peds where you have to pivot the engine down to remove the carb. Even new they are stiff and hard to fit. After a few months they get stiffer and fit even worse. Heating with a hairdryer gives them some flex but I'm hoping to find a more flexible version that actually works well. I like to use the air box as it
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
Hopefully he just changed his name to something easier to pronounce. Thanks Don.
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
Bike failed to start one day after running well for months. Had power coming from the magneto as tested at the black wire that connects to the CDI/coil unit but no power at the spark cap. Foolihly assumed the unit was bad. Replaced the CDI/coil and still had no spark. Tested the ignition wire, which was good, and finally the spark plug cap, which was the issue. Running thru a search on the Ar
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
Thanks, useful. Ordered one before seeing your responses. Got another from Treats, made in Taiwan, this my second of that make, first only made it for a few hundred miles. Will search down the suggested make if this goes out.
Ned Renner — 3 years ago
I need to replace the ignition box on my 1995 Targa LX and there are numerous options out on the various parts sites, anyone had experience with good or bad deals?
Ned Renner — 4 years ago
Corresponded with a recognized moped repair service and the accepted practice is to tap it in with socket and hammer, being sure pressure is going to the outer shell. Used a little water based lube to ease the friction, water evaporates so it will be a tight dry ground. Most condenser capacitors have an external metal band and screw to attach and ground, great method. The Tomos A3 uses the compr
Ned Renner — 4 years ago
Thanks for the ideas, will consider an external placement but not my first choice. Think the designer had it right with keeping it inside. Looking for what Tomos did to put it in. Will report back with final solution.
Ned Renner — 4 years ago
On my '91 Bullet the condenser is held in by tight friction through a hole in the stator plate. I got it out by removing the plate and tapping it out from the back with a socket and hammer. Soaked it with WD40 before the attempt . This resulted in some damage where the socket pressed the rear of the old condenser. Am a bit Leary about forcing in the new unit using the reverse of this metho
Ned Renner — 5 years ago
Bike started for first Spring run but next morning had no spark. There is weak current at the plug as I can feel it in my hand but not enough to generate a spark. CDI is new last fall, tried another new one, no result. Plug is new, plug wire has 10k ohm resistance. Cleaned all the contacts I could see. Rear light bulbs intact.
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
You are right, isopropyl alcohol is the solvent, drug store alcohol.
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
Diesel fuel, 24 hour soak. Old toothbrush.
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
Have been looking for an answer to the product difference on these three for years, finally think I got it right. There is no difference, 2A, B, and C are simply different sized packages of the same product. Was working on a Tomos A35 clutch cover and needed to keep the paper gasket in place while reassembling. Product works very well. Don't use no. 1 as it hardens, no. 2 is non hardenin
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
Thanks, will give this serious thought. Am almost afraid to look up the priice of this fancy looking bulb.
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
Dremel method described earlier worked for the two lateral cuts on each side to create the new slots. The plastic piece of the new slot snapped right off but the metal backing plate , even though cut laterally, was hard to get to, there is very little space to work in. Be sure to cut the slots deep enough that the stud is free to move through the slot once you bend the backing plate tab until it
Ned Renner — 6 years ago
Researched a bit on plastics and aging, UV exposure, exposure to cold weather and age all contribute to added brittleness. Decided to use a Dremel to cut slots that should allow the fairing to slide forwards and off, then do some reinforcing. Thanks to both of you. Will report how this goes.