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I guess I answered my own question by actually reading the diagram:(Sachs uses a 6.8 ohm/10 watt resistor between the green brake feed wire and the ground. If this resistoris bad or missing, the engine will stop if the bulb is burned out and the brakes are squeezed.)So, I'll go pick up a resistor. Where would one go about picking up one of these resistors? I found some on Amazon, but trying
I have been having the same issues on my westlake. Bike would start up and run, tail light works, breaklight would not work. When I pull a break lever, no light, but the engine didn't die.Interestingly, I swear that it was working fine and I don't remember ever changing anything off the wiring diagrammotoplat from wikiBut, I've thrown that out and decided to go with Sunday Mornings
I'm having the same exact issue as you with the brake light. I'll try the option of pulling the light and testing the brakes.My other thought was that I'm not getting power from the black wire as you stated. I'm hoping to get some time to work on wiring again this weekend. I'll update if I have any success.
Cool bike. I have it's twin. Mine came with the "C" header. I've since added the airsal kit.http://garage.1977mopeds.com/build/Sachs+Westlake
They are good dependable bikes. $280 is a good deal for a good runner.
Thank for all the responses. Yeah, I'm only down there during the weekdays. So if you are ever up for something after work, let me know. My work is near midtown.I'd need a loaner for rides, but have no problem meeting you all first so you know I'm not a total shit head.
Hey Memphis,I'm working in your great city quite a bit for the next few months. I head back to MN on weekends. Do you have any regular rides? I know this week is rainy, but next week looks nice.I don't have a bike down here, but would be willing to meet pre or post rides.
so, the two springs were not just on top of each other, but where there was 1 spring before, it now goes: spring - washer - spring?
Where exactly did you put the two extra springs?
Pretty much any condensor will work. THis is what I have on my westlake.http://www.treatland.tv/puch-moped-condensoer-screw-top-type-p/puch-condenser-screw-top.htm
I did adjust the idle. I had the throttle cable so tight, the idle screw couldn't reach it. While there, I adjusted the air screw as well. I think that should be good. I'll get out at some point today to see if that did the trick.
I have an 83 Hobbit with a new Dr kit, proma pipe, notched variator, boyseen kit reeds, stock carb(90 jet).I'm still breaking in the kit. Have put about 40 miles on it. When starting off the line, it hesitates, or kind of sputters for a few seconds before the clutch engages. I've ordered yellow clutch springs and a yellow rear spring.Any suggestions for this hesitation?
Just cut a couple extra vertical slits so there are 4 total. Use the existing clamp, and put an allen head bolt in so you can get it good and tight. I've had the giannelli for 3 or 4 years and never had it fall off.
That engine is a 504C on the westlakes. Clean it up and should be a dependable runner.
If you are looking to keep this bike stock, it should be pretty reliable.The 505 1D should run mid 30's. Especially if the rider is only 130.$425 might be a bit high. I would suggest maybe $350 tops if it starts and runs well. With a bike that age, you may be looking at needing new tires as I'm sure they have some dry rot on them.If you have any questions, I'm down in Hopkins and
Grime Boss Heavy Duty Hand wipes... They are baby wipes for men.Man-wipes if you will...Seriously, they take moped grease off like butter
Search Craigslist. There are a lot of 125's for under $2,000.50cc's for around $1,100 - 1,200.
I'm putting it on a 504 C. If you are on FB, check out the group: Lovers of Sachs Mopeds. There is a thread there right now with some other folks and their set up.Also, there are a few i think on the garage on 77.
I actually just got my 15mm bing, I'll be starting down the same rabbit hole this week.It would seem that you need to down jet if you are still four stroking. You are getting too much fuel for the amount of air it is able to suck in.
It should work with the 504. Says so on the airsal website as well. You will still have the shorted crank of the 504, but I wouldn't see any issues beyond that.
My original intent was to throw a bing 15 on it, hence getting the larger intake. But, the intake ended up too close to the frame of the westlake, and not enough room to slip the 15 on. So, I've been trying to get the most out of the 12.Interestingly, when I measured the inside of my existing intake, it was 14.5mm. Not all that far off the 15mm.
I scrapped this idea...Put a new base gasket on and putzed with the timing a bit and the low end has returned somewhat. I'll be out soon to check top end speed.-Tim
Sorry, yes, base gasket.504/1Cbing 85/12/104 (no needle) - 60 jet15mm intakegiannelli pipe
Has anyone had success with removing the head gasket on a 504?I replaced with black gasket sealant, checked for air leaks. I've been playing around with the timing, and that seems to help, but the low end power seems to really have taken a hit.Suggestions? or just keep adjusting timing until I hit the sweet spot?
Try cleaning the carb again. I'm not familiar with the amal carb, but there normally is an idle adjustment screw that you can screw in or out to control how high the idle is.Also, pick up a small inline fuel filter. They are cheap and are extra insurance against old, rusty tanks.
Have you checked for air leaks? Do you have an in-line fuel filter? Can you adjust the idle screw on the carb?
Do you actually use type A? If so, where have you found it?
I have always used ATF type-F