Results 1–30 of 391
And there i went spending all that money on Doppler parts! I should have gotten one of these!There are six million ways to die. please choose one.
Is the pedal arm mounted all the way out on the crank arm spindle? a cottered crank usually has some amount of positioning variance because the cut for the cotter pin on the axle is wider than the pin itself. Bending the crank-arm will make it feel a little wonky, but not that bad for just getting it started, and you could always do a compound bend that regains pedal alignment. The forces requi
I could see this thing having nothing but sidepanels and stock rear shocks. i've got a bunch.... i'm enjoying the theory better than getting off my ass and shipping them to you though...
sounds like a good place to start.
Don't get offended already Mark, it's only your second post! There will be a lot of attitude and criticism mixed in with all the great advice you can get on these forums, and being laughed at as a newb is part of the price of entry.Try the moped wiki, search the forums, and read this http://www.mopedriders.org/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=46it tells how to do almost anything on yo
I don't recall precisely, but if you load the spring by winding it up a bit instead of unwinding, that is the direction the tensioner will want to go, there are only a couple of possibilities, so try it out. As I said before, I take all that stuff off. :) sorry that probably wasn't super helpful. What i really wanted to say was...Thanks for using your local bicycle shop.
This is the pedal side, not the drive side, a couple more or less teeth won't affect much of anything unless you plan on pedaling this thing around. Should still be reasonable to start I would think. I've got a used 20t freewheel if you want to buy it. cheap.
My experience rebuilding freewheels is strictly from the bicycle side of things, grease is great for assembly, really the only way to do it, but the oil added later on will never clean it out properly and it will hold dirt and debris better than oil will and will be harder to clean out and only shortens the lifespan of your overhaul. Bearings like grease but pawls don't. 24 years in the bic
The numbers do not refer to the length of the chain but rather different width chains. You will probably need to shorten it regardless of which you get.
Possible I suppose, but not really the sort of job the average moped user does. New wheel bearings or crankcase bearings sure, but I don't think that many people go into their freewheels. Could be wrong though! Still if it's not currently working properly it doesn't matter what the last guy did!
Best to flush the grease out afterwards and replace with oil, grease will be too stiff for most pawl springs to operate properly. I like rebuilding freewheels, but it might just be grit or rust particles causing your problems as well, so might as well try cleaning it out first. Dusty, were those 1/8" bearings you ended up ordering? or 3/32"? Local bike shops should have these as well
If you're handy enough and the bearing surfaces aren't destroyed these can be rebuilt with new bearings as well.
I ran a 68 with this set-up as well.
What's wrong with the old freewheel?French bicycles changed over to english threading around the late 70's. Not sure if Motobecane mopeds ever followed suit or not. If the old freewheel is seized up soak in wd-40 and clean it out, then relube it with some heavier oil like "Phil's tenacious oil" or a chain lube intended for wet conditions.
It may be french threaded, in which case a modern BMX freewheel won't work, if it is English threaded I don't see why a BMX freewheel would be a problem. My two Motobecanes from 75 and 78 were french threaded I believe. I didn't pay too much attention because I was just removing them and going pedal-less. Which means I've probably got a couple around if you want one. To det
that cat did some work on my moped.
Rebel, ces programmes de traduction sont les diable!Motobecanes are fantastic machines which can bring great joy to any patient, soulful moped user. Plenty of parts available, and lots of knowledge as well, a great choice for someone looking to get the most out of their moped experience.
I too loved the circuit pipe with SHA 15.15 + polini reed block. Was good for 45mph with the stock cylinder on my 103 VLS-U3 on flat ground, (disclaimer, I am very lightweight) had great acceleration, hitting pretty well about 20mph and sounded pretty good too (loud though). Had to machine a threaded mount to get it to fit, not having known about the exhaust flange, which was a lot of work, so
I heard you need to upjet when you install that kit.
You're liable to get pulled over if you are in full tuck, even it the bike is still on the center stand.
Yah, it's hard to tell how fast this thing is without someone posing on it in an extreme racing position.
I'm usually not that much of a chopper fan but I must say this one is pretty cool... nice work.
Hi, i bought the black 50v from you last year. My co-worker wants to buy this one from you. sending e-mail as well.
Hey swoop, i'm not a lance fan, but i've lost people to cancer, and your contention that beating it and then going through the voluntary torture that is the tour de france makes him a pussy is retarded. remember, that one balled doper nailed cheryl crow, that's not exactly un-masculine. if you go through anything in your life as difficult as cancer, riding your bike over 2000 mile
Don't think Rampar is the actual model as Rampar was a subdivision of Raliegh and stood for "Raliegh America Parts", which later became Cyclepro and then Avenir. They also used it as a brand name on some of their bikes. Either way, totally rad! I had a little motorcycle style bike with 16" wheels which got stolen off my back porch when I was a kid :(