Results 1–30 of 57
The condesor is the cheapest thing to replace. If it doesn't work, then go to the points (regap first), then replace if necessary. Then look at the main coil and then the stator coils. Good luck.Chemglider
I agree with Zane. The teeth have to line up just right for it to engage fully.Chemglider
Try Napa Auto parts. They have always had the correct NGK spark plug I needed. I have a morini Franco engine and use the NGK BP6ES. In addition, I had a problem with an intermittant spark awhile back and traced the problem to weak magnets in the magneto. Just food for thought.Chemglider
The points are under the flywheel magneto. The open and close as the magneto turns. You can gap the points with a feeler gauge (available at an auto parts store for under $10.00. I would suggest you get one made of brass or copper so the magnets do not "pull" on it) through the openings of the flywheel on most mopeds. If you need to remove the flywheel, you'll need to get a pulle
I would clean the points and regap them (0.016 in). If that fails to produce a spark, then replace the condensor. Then go to the ignition coil (inside the flywheel), and replace it. If that fails, then replace the spark plug coil. Lastly, replace the magneto flywheel. You can check the flywheel magnetism by place a 1/2 in socket inside and try to shake it loose. If it comes loose easily, the
Here's the web address for how to build a magneto recharger: http://www.old-engine.com/magsum.htmChemglider
OK all, here's a lesson for all. It's a long post (sorry) but may be worth reading if you have (or ever had) an electrical problem.I have been working on a spark problem for my NVT easy rider with a Morini Franco engine. I had it running by replacing the condensor, then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. I checked the plug and it had spark. I adjusted the points and timing, but
If it sparked before, it sounds like a gounding issue or loose connection. If you painted it, make sure the engine and spark coil are gounded. In addition, check your on/off switch for proper grounding.
That's a good explanation. It was what I expected (except for the spark plug gap verses the wear). My understanding is the point material is usually made of tungsten which can take high temperatures (from the spark jump). I guess the tungsten can crack from rapid heating and cooling. Thanks again for the explanation.Chemglider
I have posted previously about my Morini Franco motor and the electrical problem I have had with it. I have been trouble shooting for a long time and kept getting that intermitant spark thing. It sparked at low rpms but not at high rpms or visa versa. I believe I have narrowed it down to the points. I took those points COMPLETELY apart (I mean I separated each piece, sanded with 400 wet sand p
I've used a bicycle brake cable and modified (filed down) the end to fit the carb slider. Then I cut it to length and installed a keeper for the hand throttle. You can pick up a keeper at your loval hardware store and modify (file/grind it down) it to fit your throttle. Cost was about $3.00.
Undo the cable from the speedometer and wheel assembly. Pull the cable out. It's probably broken. I fixed one by buying an automotive replacement cable at Napa Auto parts for about $8.00 (just the inside cable). I had to cut the cable to length and install the end that fits into the wheel assembly. You may have to modify the end to fit as your old one did.
Yes. I gapped at 0.014. I adjusted them to closer and farther to see if that would make a difference. The farther I adjusted them open, no spark. The closer, a BIT more spark. Still loses spark at higher rpm.
Which coil? The magneto coil or the spark plug coil? I have several spark plug coils I have tried and they all give the same result ... spark at low rpm and no spark at higher rpm. I'm still puzzled.chemglider
I have a Morini Franco motor with a sparking problem. It will spark when I peddle the motor slowly then quits sparking when I increse the motor rotation. Does anybody know what cause this? Could it be a weak magneto? Do the magnets get weak and cause this? I've replaced the condensor and it still does it. Any insight would be appreciated.Chemglider
What causes a condensor to die other than age?Chemglider
Thanks. I'll check all the connections.Chemglider
What did you gap it at? (0.014 in.?)
I just took the points out and took them apart. I carefully sanded the points with 400 wet sand paper. I had an old set of points from another moped and I replaced the plastic washers between the points and spring. I put it together but still got that sparatic spark. I'm going to hard wire the coil to the frame to assure good grounding. If it doesn't work, I'm lost! Thanks fo
Man, I just posted the problem. I'm puzzled as well with the same motor. You say your motor runs fine now? What did you do? What is your point gap? Did you clean/sand the points? I've worked on my motor and got it running, then after a few rides, it dies. I'm perplexed!Chemglider
I have an NVT Easy Rider moped with a Morini Franco motor. I'm having problems with the spark. The spark at the plug is "sparatic". I mean, it sparks at times, then it won't. If I adjust the points open, it may spark bright and then nothing. When I adjust them closer, I get a spark, but not enough to start the motor. I've been trouble shooting this for quite some tim
I'm looking for brakes shoes for a suzuki fa50. I need two sets of front and back brakes. If anybody knows where I can find them, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.Chemglider
I just repainted/restored my 1979 Motobecane and replaced the chrome tank panels with black hex head screws (they are stronger than regular screws). If you are worried about them vibrating loose, use the "blue" loc-tite. It is meant to be strong enough to hold, but weak enough to loosen if necessary. I rethreaded the rivet holes on the tank with the same screws I used to hold the pane
I'm not sure of the wire gauge, it is the same wire used to wire a trailer for tail ights. Are you thinking that the wire is too large and giving too much resistance?Chemglider
I don't think I have a rectifier but I do have a flasher unit. The cats eye turn signal unit has circuits built into it that include a capacitor and two diodes. I'm not sure if these act as a rectifier. What kind of rectifier would I need and where would be a good place to obtain one?Chemglider
Thanks, I'll try that.Chemglider
I tried hooking the turn signals up to the brown wire but was unable to get the turn signals to work. Once again, I hooked up an outside charger and they worked. The up side is that the lights did not dim when I hooked the turn signals to the brown wire. I appreciate the good information/advice. However, I'm still in a dilema where I can't get the trun signals to work. I'm assu
I have "modified" the Cats Eye Turn signals for my 1979 Motobecane. I simply mounted the unit under my seat and ran wires. The blinkers worked when I hooked up the cats eye batteries to a charger but when I tapped into the electrical system in the motobecane headlight, the head/tail lights dimmed. I charged the cats eye batteries but it still dims my head and tail lights to where they
I have a motobecane and just went through an "ordeal" to get it running. I had spark, so I pursued the carberator. I did all I could that was related to the fuel system. It wouldn't start. I looked into compression. Took everything apart, cleaned it, retorqued head, and checked the compression (150 psi). It still wouldn't run. I pursued the electrical system by replacing
Thanks for the reply. Where did you get the condensor and how much are they?chemglider