Results 1–30 of 347
Eric — 13 years ago
I have a 95 LX with the Airsal 65cc kit and Biturbo and it hauls well enough. The stock intake is not so much an issue for the older A35 bikes because they use the stubby intake. The later models with the carb outside the frame have more restriction. For you, the stock intake will do fine. I also kept the stock 14/12 carb at first and jetted it from the stock 52 to a 58. I later switched to th
Eric — 15 years ago
I use card stock, usually 80lb for the case gasket and sometimes use the Fel-Pro stuff for the base gasket and intake if the surface isn't perfect. Don't use the fiber gasket stuff on the cases... only use the paper. Do not use any sealants with any gaskets, just give them a thorough soaking in 2-stroke oil first.-E
Eric — 15 years ago
Here is a file with the gaskets for you. Print it from photoshop or something to keep the output the right size. I will post a lot more gasket sets on my website when I find time. I also have the Polini case gaskets.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Why don't you have bolts where the reeds attach? There should be Two bolts just behind the mounting face. See the attached photo. Also, make sure your o-rings for the Polini setup are seated properly and not getting crushed outside the groove.Some 1/32" Fel-Pro gasket material from your local auto parts store should make a better seal than the flimsy gasket the Polini setup comes with.G
Eric — 15 years ago
Some of the other pipes are built a little better, but I prefer the biturbo. The others, like the tecno and technigas have the stinger and baffle folding around to the front. This puts the exhaust port at your leg. I hate being the guy who smells like 2-stroke oil in the office everyday. The biturbo is by far the best for the price. I have owned that other chrome pipe you posted the link for
Eric — 15 years ago
Stock jet with the A35 motors is a 52.With a performance exhaust and stock cylinder: 56 is a good starting place.Airsal 70c with biturbo: 62 in the summer and 64 in the winterNever upgraded the stock Dellorto 14/12.... no need to. Tried a 15/15 and it didn't make much of a difference.The jet sizes I've given assume that there are no air leaks in your intake and cases. If there are leak
Eric — 15 years ago
An Airsal 70cc kit and biturbo exhaust will get you quickly to about 45 on flat ground with a 64 jet for winter (62 for summer). Total cost for the kit is about $250 at mopedepot.com Its listed under parts and accessories and then A35 Speed Kit Parts.I have had that setup for over a year and 2500 miles and have had no problems.Go for it!!!!-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
I have this very cylinder kit. It is essentially stock, although the porting is more like the AV88, so it runs a little better then the AV7 stock. Nothing special though.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Athena makes kits for he A-3. Wrist pin size is correct for the A-3.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
If the ped is in good shape, go for it. Keep in mind that you may not get huge improvements until you add a performance exhaust.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
You should really use a larger jet for break-in and down jet once it is ready to go.Using a smaller jet for break-in is a very very bad idea. Smaller jets reduce fuel and lubrication intake and increase the engine temperature (as well as power to a point... then it melts down if you go too far). You want to brake it in slow and cool. Jetting so that you 4-stroke at the top end (nowhere near win
Eric — 15 years ago
What jet do you have in there right now? I run a #62 with an Airsal 70cc, 15mm Delorto and a Biturbo pipe. With the Tecno Estoril pipe I needed to upjet to a 64. My ped does 40-45mph easy with both setups. You would probably be in the #62-66 range with your current setup. Buy a range of jets and read the plug.Like Brennan said, "You could try tuning it."Don't wast more money or
Eric — 15 years ago
You need a larger front sprocket and smaller rear sprocket for increased speed. With that setup, you should be doing at least 40mph with stock gearing. Do you need more?-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
The use of the word "pearlite" essentially means that the cast iron has been cooled slowly. This gives the metal a more relaxed structure and makes it less prone to distortions with subsequent heating. They could have quenched the iron (or skipped an annealing step) for faster throughput, but decided to go with quality over quantity.The pearlite/aluminum cylinder uses a cast iron sleev
Eric — 15 years ago
Looking at both the Techno Estoril and Technigas Next pipes. Any major differences besides the price? Both claim great low end and some improvement in high revs.Thanks,-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Actually austenitic stainless steel is non-magnetic. This type has a higher chromium content and nickel added. This is your high quality stainless, but is softer. The nickel makes the chromium oxide rust barrier more robust.Your regular (cheap) stainless has a ferric structure which makes in magnetic. A minimum of 10.5% chromium is required to designate it as stainless. Adding carbon to this
Eric — 15 years ago
Swap away! No difference in the cranks. The nuts are different though... the variator one is deeper.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Ino on how to repair it can be found "here":http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/6/100421/100421/I just bought some pop rivets from Lowes to put it back together.Good luck,-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Sure... If you change the cylinder or pipe, change your jet. Either case will give you higher airflow and probably lean out your fuel/air mixture. Upjet responsibly, brake it in properly, and you will have no issues. You may go through clutches a bit quicker, but that is the price you will pay for more power.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Don't even waste your time watching it. There was only one shot of the exhaust header. The rest was about 100 photos of a beat ped with some stickers on it, which went on for 3.5 minutes with some boring music. I attached the only picture of the exhaust header, along with two shots of the bike.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Here is the port map of the cylinder. The shapes of the ports are very accurate. They are just that ugly. Also note the height difference between the left and right transfer ports. I can see this with the piston in the cylinderThe top ring is exposed in the exhaust port at BDC and that is just unacceptable. I measure 3.5mm off from where it should be. This is a really really cheap kit, so what
Eric — 15 years ago
So what crazy kit is this you found? Give some details and/or photos please.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
If the stroke was longer, the piston would be coming 3mm out of the top of the cylinder at TDC since it comes just to the top right now. I'm pretty sure it was a casting problem. I found some 3mm aluminum plate from another project and will probably start the machining tonight. Should be perfect with the spacer.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
Works out to 41.65mm by my calculator. I measured that for the stroke on my Moby tonight. See my Kit Proma post in the Performance tuning forum for details.Using the bore and stroke above. It works out to 50.82cc displacement. Pretty close.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
I was installing my Kit Proma 70cc top end tonight and found that all of the ports are 3mm too low. That means I lose about 30% of my port area because the piston is blocking them at BDC. Also, that means the port timing is off since they will be closing earlier.I mapped and measured the ports on a stock cylinder and compared it to the Kit Proma. On a stock cylinder, the bottom of the transfer po
Eric — 15 years ago
I have tried both the Saito pipe (stock AV10) and the AV7 pipe on my stock AV10 setup. The Saito gives me low end torque, but limits me to 28mph. The AV7 pipe is weak at the low end but then gets me smoothly to 35 mph on flat ground. I am working on a 70cc kit with an awesome intake and case/crank setup, but am not sure what pipe to get.How well do some of the other pipes work? Can you keep your
Eric — 15 years ago
Kits can be very reliable if you treat them well. Break-in is the most important. Be patient. If you know you cannot be patient, up-jet a ton so you can't ride fast and lean for the first 200 miles or so. Running too hot, too fast can make your piston slightly oval. Then it won't seal well in the cylinder and won't transfer heat well... next thing you know you have blow-by and y
Eric — 15 years ago
With a 16mm inlet on the carb and a what?....1 or 2mm ID for the boost bottle tubing and hose nipples. Add in the conductance along a small tube and the resistance due to the pressure build up, you would be very lucky to get 5 percent of the back-wave going into the boost bottle. Not that that even translates to a 5% improvement in performance. Given the wrong length of tubing, you may even cau
Eric — 15 years ago
If you have a stock exhaust, a larger intake and carb won't give you much of a performance boost. If you have a performance exhaust already... then by all means go for it. I have a straight intake you could modify if you can weld aluminum. e-mail me if you need the intake. $5.-Eric
Eric — 15 years ago
What exhaust are you running on that? Too little restriction can give you low end problems. You need back pressure for low end or a carb that can give you separate adjustment in that range. Is there a low end adjustment on the Bings? Too much exhaust restriction can also cause problems. Exhausts on 2-strokes are quite important. My one ped had a huge lag at 25 mph until it got to 30 and picked