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Hmm well shit... Just looked at the needle bearing I bought and the description says make sure to check if you have 15mm or 16mm ID. My factory one is 15mm and this one is 16mm.I didnt have mine apart to measure BUT I dont see the ID of the needle bearing being a huge issue though right as the bushing goes on the crank?https://www.treatland.tv/INA-HK1616-honda-hobbit-clutch-bell-bearing-p/hobbit
Cool. I just wanted to make sure I hadnt done something wrong when trying to install.
Yeah I thought it might be but its 10mm on the "outside" so it doesnt even go past the threads that direction.Attached are pics as well as measurements of part if that helps.
PA50-2I tried it on factory and aftermarket crank and it goes on the aftermarket just a hair more but not enough Id be comfortable cranking it down to force it on.
The triangles show where the quick disconnects go in. If you look at some there are three triangles and one without. The one without is where the "multi tap" is crimped to the wire.Some of the connectors are 1 to 1, some are 2 to 1 (Y looking thing), and some are 3 to 1."G" is a good example to look at for the 3 to 1 scenario. Sorry I cant read the pic well enough but I thin
Not on the Hobbit but has happened on cars when threads have become worn out. Old Ford Expedition 5.4L is notorious for it.If you pull the plug out do the threads in the head look chewed up or worn down?
Hello All,Picked up one of those x-treme clutch bells for my hobbit as mine looked a little bent but am having an issue with install.I got the main bearing, two way needle bearing, and spacer but the spacer doesnt seem right. It doesnt slide onto the crank far enough without a LOT of resistance.Small side ID 10.00mmLarge side ID 12.00mmCrank OD 11.98mmFirst pic is stock crank and second is treats
I wouldnt trust a gas can or anything like that in my car during a Georgia summer.Why would I need tools with me? Wait are you telling me this isnt going to be 100% reliable?! Hahaha
Normally Id just do the gas can thing but live in an apartment with no place for storing that.My OG tank was messed up and couldnt be easily salvaged so Ive got a treats aftermarket tank with no little cup.Ive seen the little tool tray thing and dont have one but was going to 3d print one. I figured that would be the spot. I just didnt want to have missed the "store your oil here" box
Got a duuumb question but where does everyone keep the bottle of oil on their hobbit when they need to fillup? Do I have to carry a bag, strap something to the package tray, use my pockets, store it in my cheeks like a chipmonk?I feel im missing something obvious.Thanks for helping a dumb guy out lol
I took the easy route this time and bought bolts already but think when I tear it down for for a more custom build in a year or two Ill look again at studs.
Brand new tank so hopefully no issues with junk in carb on that front.Ive heard a lot of wishy washy stuff on that carb in stock location. Some love and some hate it. Seems too split on reviews to fight with.
Oh yeah even stock this thing is a blast but too slow with me on it at the moment. Im trying 96 on stock carb based off info I found here.Id love a better carb but honestly hate the "carb out the side look". Eventually Im hoping to make my own subframe from scrap at work and that will open up carb options. I just havent found anything I really like yet.
Damn... I had heard the dr kit was hot but its getting ridden 2 miles at a time so I was hoping that wouldnt kill it too bad. This is NOT intended to be a long distance cruiser at all for me.I guess I should look at a head *sigh*
Im hoping stock head will be ok for a bit. Eventually I will do a full rebuild with crank and better kit. Right now Im trying to see if this can be a reasonable rider for me being way too heavy of a rider. Dr kit was cheap and got it on sale.
Awesome. Appreciate the help. Hopefully I get this all done and it runs beautifully.
Worth it to run a tap down the holes you think? Normally on a car or motorcycle I replace head bolts every time and would run a tap just to clean things up but dont know how touchy such a small motor with such small bolts would be.
Awesome information all. Im going to go browsing and see whats in stock.Im just planning on reusing stock head on dr kit currently. Maybe if this rides nicely do something fancier later.
God I hope Im not taking this thing apart so frequently that stripped threads are a problem.
Good Morning All,.1983 Hobbit PA50ii.Getting ready to go 70cc and I SWEAR I read something here about going with head studs instead of bolts. I cant find that thread anywhere though and now that I think about it the information might not have been hobbit related..That being said is there any benefit on a motor this small to head studs and if so anyone have part suggestions? I figured maybe due t
These are the ones I got. Again Ive only put ~20 miles on them but WAY better and no bottoming out like the original ones.https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=300mm-BLK-shocks-puch297
You know I dont even remember if I compared the stock one I have vs the new one... Ill have to pull them and check. Original tank was coated inside and coating was peeling/rusting so I had to swap it and petcock was "crunchy" so I replaced it too..Yeah ive got a cb450sc for faster riding this was just a unique machine and more of something fun to tinker with.
Oh no I didnt take it that way. :) I know im too heavy and trying to make some changes in my life to improve that..I would LOVE disc brakes but I think thats further down the list of mods. Im honestly shocked how well this thing stops considering how small the drums are and my weight. I did buy some of the like $60 shocks from treats and WOW im impressed. I wanted the fancy super adjustable one
Yeah I need to drop weight in life but it would also help my hobbit.Im not looking for fast at all I would just like to be able to not be a traffic hazard on a 2 mile ride to work. Speed limit is 40mph anyway.Yeah I tightened the belt "pretty hard" when installing as that was before I read much. I was treating it like a fan or alternator belt on a car. From what ive read especially wi
Hmm... Maybe Ill strap my ancient go pro to the back to see if I can see it moving. I guess Ill probably have to add that to the teardown list for when the dr kit comes. Appreciate the direction!
I forgot ive got a tjt variator as well.Idk if that changes anything.I know the variator belt isnt going all the way to the edge up front as I think Ive got the belt too tight. I know that would put the engine outside its optimal power spot but wow I would hope it didnt kill it that bad. Im not sureAlso as a note when I say slow It does 25-30 flat land and like 12 up slight incline. I see the v
Hello All,Got my moped running and ooh baby its dangerously slow but I'm really too heavy for it (270-280) so that's expected..The question that's come up is I've only put like ~20 miles on it and had to switch to reserve on the petcock.... Does that sound right? The petcock filter (in link below) looks SUPER long so I'm thinking its just too long and causing me to have
Thats awesome data to have!
My dad had the harbor freight pump but since you have to take it in and out it spills a lot and is a hassle.I just got my dad this for his birthday and he seems to like it. Pricey I know but since it seals on the can it doesnt have to be messed with. Its got auto shutoff and all that jazz so no overfilling tank. He is filling his lawntractor so might be overkill and overpriced for a 1 gallon mop
I have not checked it since I got it running. I checked voltages around the harness and got 12vdc with all the lights and turn signals working at 12vdc.I failed to go back and do anything since I got it running but yeah I definitely need to check.