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I just wired up my 6v without a battery, so this should work double easy for you. 2 pin electronic flasher with buzzer, put it in series/spliced in with the power feed to the turn signal switch. Test the flasher module with an external power source if possible to verify how to wire it. Hook in bulbs externally to make sure it blinks with bulbs on. I ended up having one side not blink and switc
The long hose argument seems dumb. You'll still build the same pressure, it'll just take more kicks to get there, same goes for the WOT. You'll still suck the eventual amount of air and build up the same pressure in the tester, it'll just take longer sucking theorugh a coffe stirrer. Just keep cranking, kicking, spinning, whatever until the gauge peaks it seems to me.Do a lo
Mine was crooked when I first got it, the screw eyes being higher than the open corners. You can sand it flat on a steel table or piece of glass with some fine wet dry paper. I also found you can actually bend the bowl slightly by placing 2 corners on a round bar and pressing down on the other 2 corners until it's "flatter" across the gasket surface. Mine still leaked after that,
If the NGK B6HS comment is right, theres also an iridium version BR6HIX aka 3419. I just got one for my KTM at oreilly. The B7 has an iridium too, BR7HIX aka 7067
Also maybe go buy a condenser at autozone for an old chevy or something. Just look up "condenser" and pick by price or size sith a single wire. They're cheap, brand new and plenty big to do the job.
Probably carb. Either air leak at the intake manifold, ripped rubber intake neck (because its probably a GY6), leaking vac nipple on intake. After that check your petcock, tank debris/filter, float needle and complete idle circuit especially. If things look iffy buy a new carb or rebuild it, which ever is cheaper or worth your trouble. There's lots of scooter specific sources out there, t
I was thinking about getting one of those because only anecdotes here and there say the trailtech can do 6v, but nowhere actually solidly said "yes, it will do 6v, dont listen to everything that says its 12v only". Thats why i ended up with the yamaha.
Dont forget the regulator if you don't have one already! If I kept the halogen headlight the other LEDs held out fine without the reg., Otherwise pop once you rev it.
My quest for turn signals takes a step closer. Did some final wiring on the new ebay multi switch that actually fits on the left grip. Now the horn and all lights work. Running bulbs from ledlight.com, they have good prices and a great selection of 6v and weird stuff. Multi voltage, AC, etc. Running a 6V Yamaha 1 wire regulator from treatland.tv. I ran it full speed around the neighborhood a
I was considering that load was crossing over in a few places. The whole grand circle of this thing is just to get turn signals on the bike and theres not enough juice in the generator to do the job. So I need the LED turn signal bulbs to cut down that wattage. If Im doing that I might as well swap out whatever LEDs if I can.I just went and ordered a Yamaha 6v single wire regulator and see what
The regulator seems like a nice piece of equipment but Im running 6v, and its 6v ability seems wishy-washy. I ordered a yamaha one wire 6v regulator and see how that goes.
So it sounds like running LEDs with a regulator would be better for the generator than running halogens? As long as the regulator isn't creating a massive load the low load from the LEDs would greatly reduce any heat buildup in the coils? Would this also reduce the engine power input required as per the article you posted? I'm not really concerned with that but I had the same sort of
So Im playing with LEDs toward an eventual turn signal install and im trying to puzzle out the basic function of the electrical system.I get the idea that the generator produces X watts and you try to load up all your bulbs to match that output. But my KTM Foxi has a headlight on-off switch as well as hi-low beam. If you plan the load of the headlight bulb in your overall wattage, what happens w
Haha, yeah, theres not alot of room to safely pry a seal out of a soft aluminum case. Im just about resigned to cracking it and resealing.
I did a rebuild on my 504 using a set of NOS green sachs seals that seem to have developed leaks (haven't done a case pressure test yet, today's to-do job after work). I ordered a set of new viton seals but I really don't want to have to split and reseal the case again. Can I carefully pry out the old seals and tap in the new ones or is clamping them in the case halves somehow cri