Results 1–26 of 26
I'm running the three-wire stator and originally had some backfiring/sparking issues, some advice I was given on here was to just set the stator right in the middle dead stock and adjust from there if needed. Somehow that worked like magic for me. See if that fixes it before entirely ditching it.BUT I have seen that the three-wire stator internal ignition condensers can sometimes be hit or mi
^^ truer words have never been spoken.
yeah it seems like you gotta make sure there are no air leaks and do a low 70s/high 60s jet IMO. Try the 69 you got which might make it feel a bit better but my guess is like a 70 or 72
any recs on sealing that port? I feel like I ALWAYS have a leak there on my Bing 15. The Rubber piece seems to be failing me now too
This is so awesome and would make a great project, the temptation to buy is unreal but I can't right now...GLWS
Graham, I tried out your strategy with setting the stator in the middle and seeing what happens, and honestly, it feels a whole lot better so thank you! when I can, I plan to hit it with a timing light to really dial it in.Like you said this thread is like beating a dead horse at this point but as a resource for people in the future, I think this thread is soooo helpful.
Dang, I def need to check my pipe. I still have proma GP on it but could switch back to the bi-turbo. massboy, what did you change at your pipe to stop the backfiring? Just slapped another one on? updates to come as I start to mess with this more...
How would you recommend best sealing the carb at the intake? That's def been an issue on my Bing 15. The little black shim does not seem to be working
I was having the same issue, same setup, in the fall. I kept backfiring after a certain speed. I have a feeling at least part of it has to do with the timing and I am tempted to switch to CDIbut also I think the issue for both of us could be whether or not the pipe is sealed on the cylinder, i think mine might not be so that's gonna be the first thing I'm gonna check when it gets warmer
great to see this thread revived. im running 15 bing and 15/40. I havent had detonation issues but my timing is so wack so its running pretty poor rn. once it gets warmer (25 degrees in MI rn!) im gonna check my timing before i mess something up. also tempted to just convert to CDI.....
I actually was having the same issue with some backfiring on my maxi and airsal 65cc last fall before I put it away. except my stator is the internal ignition with only the 3 wires.weirdddd that it was the horn for you, I still haven't exactly solved it but now my spring prep is to figure out why I can't go WOT without killing the bike/it bogging down. l
Hope you gave it one last ride over these last few perfect weather days in SE MI! GLWS!
Damnnnnn I need one of these to time my bike, would be a life saver. GLWS. I would also pay for one so someone PM me pls
naw ur totally right, that is about what I spent after my rebuild. converted wheels to sealed bearings and got new brakes and cables and all that and it really adds up. we def have very similar kits too.
I would def recommend the internal coil stator from treats. https://www.treatland.tv/puch-E50-ZA50-points-stator-plate-p/puch-e50-stator-plate.htmYou can ditch the condenser with it and it cleans up your wires. Wont really change how you time the moped but may help your issue.Make sure your wire going into your sparkplug boot is on firmly, as the loose wire going into the boot made me think much m
Get a 12mm drive from treats https://www.treatland.tv/VDO-style-speedometer-drive-gear-p/puch-vdo-speedo-drive.htm and slap it on with the axle set sent above and with the correct spacers it should work justttttttt fine
> Graham Motzing Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> I've got this exact set up on my maxi for about a thousand miles now,> runs great, tops out around 45 and feels like a faster stock bike. It's> not the fastest but I friggin love this bike, it feels like a stock> mopedy moped but it just cruises.>> proma gp, bing 14 with a 2.17 atomi
I used 78 jet but recently switched to 80 to see if I had any change but there wasn't much. I have needle 3rd down and 2.17 atomizer. I adjusted the clutch today and it helped a bit but I may switch to kickstart springs.Leaking a bit at carb and intake connection but I think I got it sealed. I def feel like my top end is suffering though
Hey all, I have a 1980 puch maxi with like no low end power and im trying to figure out why and could use some advice. Here is my setupAirsal 65cc - not case matched, 44mm sport head. rebuilt the engine with new bearings and seals.stock clutch - with blue springs 2 turns in from flushBing 15mm carb 80 jet, velocity stack, needle 3rd down, sparkplug looks richProma grand prix pipe 16/40 gearingtimi
if you have one that's drilled to 12mm that works too. pads or no pads is fine, just need one that works
Or really any type of mag wheel that will work on a 1980 Puch Maxi.Doesnt have to be in great shape, as long as they workPM me and lets make a deal!
Hey all,So I recently replaced my stator plate with the treats 3 wire stator ( https://www.treatland.tv/puch-E50-ZA50-points-stator-plate-p/puch-e50-stator-plate.htm ) for my 1980 puch maxi and I'm trying to figure out how to get all my lights hooked up to the single yellow wire coming from the stator.What sort of part would be able to hook together the yellow wire with all the other ones com
Hey all! I am mostly a lurker but am in the process of rebuilding and wanted to get some info on the 65cc airsal kit if anyone has experience with it. Here is the kit http://www.treatland.tv/puch-airsal-kit-p/puch-airsal-44mm-kit-02030844.htmMy questions are basically this:When installing the exhaust, did it not fit? I've been removing some of the fins and some of the exhaust but it is still
Pretty sure year doesnt matter; so whatever works but I just need a stock complete stator plate that is at least in better condition than my current one lolI don't trust these treatland replacements.