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Runs great, has new oem seals, gaskets rings and more. Fresh powder coat Runs great. Needs the wiring harness installed.I’m just Southeast of Chicago in Crown Point Indiana.If anyone can delete my prior post, please do, I messed it up.
Dropping the price to $325, that’s my bottom dollar but I got to clear out the space in the garage before it snows.
I used OEM Yamaha parts where I could with the motor
Runs and rides, fresh rings, fresh seals, gaskets, carb...1970 Yamaha QT50Needs cables put on, I’ve got them all I think and brake pads which I also have.Fresh powder coat. Very clean. $400
I’ve got a QT50 in Crown Point For sale
I’m just listing these things as I think of them. New reeds(the better ones) new gaskets, new tank cap rubber seal, converted to mixed fuel in tank.
It comes with a bunch of other things not shown here, like the headlight and wiring harness but you can fire it up as it is.I’ve got new cables for it as well I think.And a Speedo, with a key!
The entire frame, bars, rack and light shell have been powder coated. Engines been properly rebuilt and has new seals. MTM stock type pipe.Needs brake cables put on, and wiring harness installed. It runs and drives though. Seats recovered. Tanks been powder coated and is in good shape. Good winter project. I’ve got most of the parts someone would need. Need room in the garage. I’m in NOrth
Well recently I broke down a QT motor and when i broke down the drive portion, in the sleave that covers the shaft i found a lot of chunks(shreds) of black rubber..... I havent investigated further yet, but I suspect what you are saying is possible in some condition... I'd love to know the cure for it, maybe just lots of grease... who knows.
They sure seem to be installed correctly but I’m going to do a leak down test and see if I’m losing something somewhere.
So what about this little jet I held up a photo of, I never hear of anyone changing that one....
I’ve had really good luck with the brake hone, you just have to keep moving in and out, at least for me that helped me stay off port edges back when I had any.
Years ago I’d got a new outboard motor and was told to break it in(first full tank) 25:1
I’m going to try this 77.5 (seemed like a good spare to order being I didn’t know what I was doing). Tomorrow I’ll up the oil in my fuel.I’m going to check and see if I can get a cooler plug, what’s the coolest plug(that’s good for a 50cc QT50)that’ll still start and run good?
Alright put a new(fresh rebuilt) carburetor with the 77.5 and I made it three times as far before the soft seizing which I think is the term for what I’m having happen. Again it started back up and drove on home this time. So...Bigger main jet is getting ordered, I’m thinking an 85 or 90 and I’m going to mix my fuel with more oil, maybe 30-1 over 40-1.Yamaha shop told me 25:1 but that’s insaneWh
Just seems like a better situation. Fresh Yamaha gaskets, actual Mikuni jets. A choke, so no free flow or leaks.
The forks are on backwards, I did it on purpose, long story. When my powder coat guy gets things done that will change. But for now I needed a brake and didn’t want to argue with the tool store people about the expensive snap ring players I bought that broke first use.I found a 77.5 main I’m going to swap for the 70 that’s in it now. I’m also going to install a choke and an oem Mikuni(in place of
So I went for my first longer(only went on 2 miles due to this issue) ride this morning.So I’m about a mile into it and at mid throttle, running good. I hear this sound naaaah followed by a light non breaking pop, bikes dead. So I pull over, give her some throttle and she fires back up, I did this every 1/4 mile headed back home. It’s like I’m fuel starving it or something. I don’t know.
I still don’t understand why it won’t run with the choke just in there.
I bet I can come up with something like that
> Den 23 Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> I would completely install the choke plug and the little spring to the> cable and cable to the carb and choke lever. Adjust it correctly, then,> with the engine cold, activate the choke and start the bike. Immediately> turn the key to RUN. My engine is warm enough in less than 15 seconds.> Move the chok
Slightly bigger main jet help maybe? I didn’t think that’d do anything for start or idle but who knows.I’m running a cone air filter, oem(70) main jet
Took the carb off, shook it upside down and got the choke plug out, put it back together, plugged the choke actuator hole in the top of the carb. Fired first kick.Guess I’m running this way?
So I got a proper throttle cable today as well as choke... I installed the cable, ran great. Next I figured bikes warm let’s just drop the brass stopper in the choke barrel. Put it all back together. Nothing. Played with my mixture screws, nothing.I’ve been running with the choke just capped off, literally it’s had a cap screw where the cable fitting is on the carb top.This is an OEM VM12 M
Post a photo of the brake end of the cable