Results 1–30 of 33
Looking to buy one front and one rear turn signal and the center stand for Suzuki FA50It's okay if they're missing the lenses since I've got a bunch of spares already but I would like the lens screws and gaskets if available
I'll take PD's advice on this one and then declare how toasted anything is.
PS: I've lost my airbox "slipper", as the service manual calls it: the little dovetail joint under the airbox that holds it shut, twice now. Is there anything I can apply to it to make it hold tighter? I've got it duct taped right now but feel the ped deserves better.
I was running around 28 on a good stretch before modifications so I suspect any lack of gains is failure on my part to install and break in the new kit properly.In regards to oil I’m putting off plenty of nice blue smoke so I think again the problem lies with my haste to have fun with my new kit instead of more carefully breaking it inOut of curiosity PD you say very close to stock — what have you
I’ll post plenty of pictures later, but is getting rid of the pump necessary? It was my understanding that it actually put out “too much” oil compared to the 50:1 a lot of people seem to premix. It’s just a pretty big point of convenience I didn’t wanna get rid of unless 100% necessary.
Hello,I recently put the 60cc cast iron kit from treatland, as well as the MLM sidebleed pipe on my FA50, and upjetted my stock carb to 82.5. Everything else is stock and I’m still running the oil pump as general consensus seems to be that they are reliable.I had it going 32 for a while with no problems but the other day, while going at full throttle for long stretches, I’d lose power and slow to
Hah... the gauge is threaded into the side of the tank and somehow managed to unscrew itself completely. Quite a mess under there! That would explain why the “leak” but not the complete emptying of the tank. I’ve cleaned that whole area up and I’ll give the motor, etc a good wash, should I worry about any oil that may still be inside the frame itself? Looks like the oil ran down the hole in the im
The attached images tell it all.I was riding around last night after putting my new kit in and all of a sudden, my engine stops... I take it off to the side to see what the problem is and just about have a heart attack when I see the oil gauge is on empty... surely the kit is toast... I checked the inside of the oil tank and saw there was some in there and I also noticed the bottom of the frame is
We ride mopeds, our sexualities should be obvious ;)Try not to be discouraged, MA is an indispensable source of moped information and second to none when it comes to getting advice on just about anything moped related.
Yeah, I know I chowdered it up quite a bit with the pliers... all the more reason to replace itSeller confirmed that it could indeed be replaced
Tapping sounds like a good idea, if it's replaceable.I'm using this clone.On my stock carburetor, as per the diagram above which is pulled from the service manual, it appears like it's meant to be easily removable such as to replace the o-ring.Maybe because it's a cheap clone that had the wrong jetting to begin with I shouldn't count on it being replaceable or true to the
Hello,I just received my carburetor build kit from treatland.tv and have replaced everything but the needle seat (number 9 in the diagram).The only problem is I'm having trouble getting the original one out. It seems like it's just a push-in sort of thing, held there by friction, so I tried to pull it out with a pair of pliers. It didn't work because there isn't much space to
This weird thing I got from a gas station (not my picture but the spout is the same). I have never seen anyone complicate the simple act of pouring a liquid this much. You normally have to push that stupid red lever down while you're pouring but I think mine got stuck :)Next time I'm buying a metal jerry can.
Good question I was really excited to see his FA50 pull 70 mph ;)
Stock FA50 is quiet, and fast enough for my needs... My family is surprised when I walk through the door and they don't hear the moped outside. If performance exhaust ie those MLM pipes you can get on treatland is all its hyped up to be I wouldn't mind the extra noise :)
I'll try this. Can I take the bulb out to rule it out as being the cause, rather than the fault of the flasher relay (I believe that is also kept inside the headlight housing?)
Hello,My Suzuki FA50 got left in the rain a couple weeks ago and ever since then, turning the engine over prevents my turn signals and brake light from working properly at idle, and either the headlights or me testing the other lights causes my battery to drain pretty quickly.I've tested some things like battery drain with the key off (there is none). I tested the turn signals and brake light
The other night it finally happened, I ran out of gas on my way home after forgetting to hit a gas station.So I did the reasonable thing and set my petcock from ON to RES, and got about another 20 yards or so before my engine petered out again.The manual says there's supposed to be a tenth of a gallon of reserve fuel, so what gives? Are older mopeds just like this or is there something wrong
How much for the oil pump, I wouldn't mind having a spare for if (when) mine goes...Shipping to 03451
I see. The manual makes a great deal out of cleaning carbon from the combustion chamber and exhaust port as part of the maintenance procedure, and I've already put my stock carburetor and air filter on, as well as fixed any air leaks. It runs consistently at full throttle, but just barely breaks 25 mph. Judging by the amount of carbon I found in the exhaust port while cleaning the pipe, there
So I put the old carburetor back after what I think was a good cleaning, and it stopped bogging at full throttle but still only went 25. I noticed an air leak (detected with starting fluid; engine died when I applied it to the intake manifold) which applying some Permatex seemed to fix. Any issues with top speed should be with the engine itself at this point, right?
I took apart the clone carb and the main jet was completely unlabeled and the overflow was a completely different style than the original. Needless to say I’m gonna take my lumps and clean out the old one.
Is it possible my throttle may be opening too wide? I read somewhere that if the throttle isn’t flush with the top of the carburetor bore at WOT, and goes too far up, it can cause “turbulence”... Is this adjusted with the nut at the handle?
I guess I’ll have to anyway if it’s gonna keep overflowing
Mine is completely stock except for the clone carburetor.I took the air filter off and it didn’t bog down at WOT like before, but it still only topped at 25. I’m gonna try to clean the air filter first and if that doesn’t work I’ll just put the old carburetor back.
I don’t have a primer button. There’s a prime lever on the fuelcock but I only had to use that when I first replaced the carburetor.
I’ll also run it without the air box and see how that goes, it’s just a pain to find a filter than can fit the FA50 given how close the carb is to the rear tire.
I’m going to clean the old carb and put it back tomorrow cuz I got the day off but I also noticed the carb leaks a bit of fuel out the overflow at the bottom, would this be an indication it’s running rich or some other problem, or is it normal? It doesn’t seem like a lot, it is barely enough to wet the surfaces the overflow tube is resting on, and make my finger wet if I touch the end of the tube.
Yeah it was brand new, I went out and bought a matching NGK plug.