Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Jesse Nordlander /

Evening gang

I have a Peugeot 103 engine with many mods, aftermarket everything, except clutch. Runs great once off the line.

The problem is this

with 2 star washers it revs very pleasingly high, as soon as it engages it falls right on it's face, will stall if not let off, then chugs along at about 3000 until it gets back onto power. If not for this it would be a dream. I have tried aftermarket, and stock clutch plates, nearly the same symptom. I do have a third star washer, maybe it would allow more slippage? It will rev 7000 with just 2 stars. Any ideas?

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Dirty30 Dillon /

Sounds like variation is the issue, not the clutch.

I bet you're into variation as the clutch engages.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Stock pugeot? The Vario isn't turning until the clutch grabs so it's not variating.

Yeah they are kinda grabby, I assume you've taken steel balls out? Someone had posted once about finding ceramic balls on McMaster I think.

You could try drilling dimples into the pad, I dunno how much that would help just an idea.

Your low end tuning might not be on point either, high revving French bikes have a way of covering up mediocre tuning just because they rev right through it.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Jesse Nordlander /

Ya as the design goes it seems unlikely that any variation is happening until the clutch locks in.

The peugeot subframe is grafted to a garelli ssxl. Aftermarket cases, airsal 50, le partie cdi, 19.5 phbg, carbon reeds, Doppler streetcup. It has only 3 balls of course, and I have thought about going to the ceramic if I can't get it right soon. The aftermarket clutch plate does have some holes, and has absolutely no change from stock. The bell's D hole is good also.

It runs absolutely fabulous other than the abrupt clutch lockup, there wish a bit of chatter as it slams in also. the cylinder, and pipe certainly like higher revs, no doubt. Both clutch plates do seem a bit stiff in the clutch housing. Seems if they were any looser it would be difficult to slam the clutch on without parts falling out.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

EH 📣FCC of the QCB /

Like Dillon and Graham said + look up how to mods the starter shoes. Makes a decent difference. I think it was Cheetah Chome that made the post about it.

The ceramic balls are a game changer or just pull every other one and run 3 if you have not done that. McMaster car has them like Graham said. I thought I posted them in the Vogue thread I had with Stephen…. but I did not. I’ll search after I hit post. The stock clutch is a tricky beast.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

EH 📣FCC of the QCB /

https://www.mcmaster.com/ceramic-balls/

I forget the size? 1/2? But out the old measuring tool

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Sticking_stock_clutch_remidies_for_Peugeot_103

Did you read this in the Wikki? (edited)

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Dirty30 Dillon /

You're of course right, the variator is not flying open prior to engagement, but given a 7k engagement, it's likely the moment it grabs and spins the variator, it variates harshly.

You should be able to see this on loaded takeoff. Lighter weights would help but also a stiffer spring may help as well.

I remember I was using 3 balls in my stock+ pug and it was very mild, and definitely variating/ed at like 5k.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

EH 📣FCC of the QCB /

There is a better answer… my phone was glitching and I could not read your last post without it flashing so I gave up and stated spewing Diarrhea of the fingers.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

> Jesse Nordlander wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Both clutch plates do seem a bit

> stiff in the clutch housing. Seems if they were any looser it would be

> difficult to slam the clutch on without parts falling out.

interesting - what do you mean by "stiff?" the clutch pad needs .024" - .032" operating clearance to the pressure plate. adjust with washer under star spring. you do this with a factory tool that is essentially a clutch bell with the starter bell cut off.

it sounds to me like the chatter is your "slip", and then you are locked up. if you don't have enough clearance, your pad could be heating up and expanding, binding everything up.

I know many have, but I have never had issues with my starting shoes sticking. you can always take off your starting shoes to test what effect they are having. they will become part of the power train once you get to the pedal starting road speed.

+1 for silicon nitride balls.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

You can lighten the clutch all you want but it won’t matter if you don’t have the proper resistance on the motor, be that a Doppler spring, Polini spring, or gas shock

What are you running?

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

+1 on the clutch plate movement, isnt there leaf springs that add resistance. Cheesy but try an old dry rotted belt.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Travis King /

Here's a simple trick to try before going all out on starter clutch shoe mods, if the starter clutch dip is your issue:

Use the closer starter shoe spring posts, so that the springs have less tension on them.

This makes the starter shoes grab almost instantly, which is a bit obnoxious while pushing your bike, but in most my experience has been sufficient to get rid of the starter shoe dip in rpm on modified stock clutch setups.

The above assumes you do have your clutch pad properly adjusted as Jumpsuit suggests and variation set right.

Re: Peugeot 103 clutch engagement woes

Jesse Nordlander /

Thanks for the responses. I got to tinker on it a bit tonight.

I had most of a polini spring setup minus actual spring. Noticed a few porch swing springs in the misc junk, worked great keeping rpms up in the power. Unfortunately the high rpm drop in continued.

I then removed starter clutches, and reassembled. Interestingly it wouldn't fully engage at any rpm.

Added a 3rd star washer on top of the 2 presently mounted, in comparison they looked nearly flat. It now smoothly engages starting at just off idle, and locks in around 4000. Feels really good, except rpm's are too low now.

I'll try rebending the star washers, and adding starter clutches back in hopefully soon.

So in all I'm not sure what the official issue was. It may have been the spacing as was mentioned, possibly the extra washer closed it up.

I may walk it back to figure out exactly what it was.

Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first:

Login or Create Account