In this thread I'm going to be posting step by step pictures and information about my restomod? Or 1999 tomos targa LX project from the beginning to end. I'm hoping that you will follow along and guide me through this process of I have any questions.
This is the condition I bought it in.
and this is it's current condition. (edited)
The first thing that I did today was Kickstart it to make sure that it runs and it started right up. Today I'm going to remove the engine to rebuild. (edited)
This is the engine and it's components before.
Everywhere I look I see unburnt fuel.
I got my engine off
I went to take the clutch cover off and there was no oil inside again. I don't know where all the oil keeps going. I let my friend borrow it last couple weeks he wrote it once and he said he couldn't get it started again he's stupid he forgot to turn the gas on but I'm glad that he didn't ride it. I found a machine screw inside I'm not sure if it was in there already or if it fell in when I took the case off I don't see any damage to any of the teeth or the clutch so it probably wasn't in there the whole time.
There's a ton of carbon buildup in the piston head. And everyone knows that I put a seal bearing in my crank so here's that.
Second gear is missing part of its shoe but first gear is fine, and it better be because it's basically new.
Is it supposed to have that much room between the seal and the shaft?
Last time I did this I used paper glass kits from treatland and gasket prep for engines from O'Reilly Auto parts, and I see now that all of my oil leaked through the gasket and out of the engine on both the clutch cover and the main seal.
So this time I'm going to use the better green gasket from treatland. Does anybody have any suggestions on what I can use to seal it better this time.
So what were realizing is that after 6 pages of previous troubleshooting why your bike was so slow.... You had the wrong size seal your crank....
WILD
You use Hondabond or yamabond to seal cases up. Be careful on how much you use, and you can typically get away with not using a gasket if you apply the correct thickness of the bond. Torque the bolts down so that you retain the proper thickness and let it cure 100%. It will be sealed until you break it apart on the next rebuild.
There is a metal spacer ring that should go behind the sprocket that seals up that output shaft seal.
All the 'unburned fuel' could be the trans oil that's getting sucked into your crankcase through that bad seal/bearing
Your surface rust on the crank is great as well as the sealed crank bearings.
> Dirty30 Dillon wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> So what were realizing is that after 6 pages of previous troubleshooting
> why your bike was so slow.... You had the wrong size seal your crank....
>
> WILD
That seal is a direct replacement to the one that was factory the first rebuild and the same one I got to replace it this time.
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> There is a metal spacer ring that should go behind the sprocket that
> seals up that output shaft seal.
>
> All the 'unburned fuel' could be the trans oil that's getting sucked
> into your crankcase through that bad seal/bearing
Okay, do you know what size the ring is so I can get another?
I've already bought and have gaskets made for this. I bought head gasket sealer at O'Reilly's today. They told me that would work, the guy at the counter used it in his Harley vtwin and had no issues. I trust him. I'm going to use that on the mating surfaces as well as red thread locker to make sure the machine screws don't back out. I'm guessing what your saying will work with* gaskets too.
Always fresh never frozen patties ready to serve.
Installed brand new bearings in the crank case.
> pat splat wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Your surface rust on the crank is great as well as the sealed crank
> bearings.
You got me thinking that there was rust on my crank but this is not rust, it's discoloration from I'm guessing fluids that run through the engine over time. I might not a camera that can take a picture that makes not not look like rust but this is my attempt.
To the right is the one that I used last time to the left is the one that I got for this time.
This really is turning into a thread about how strong these engines are and how they'll run pretty much under any scenario. I put this ring in the wrong place when assembling it last time.
It goes here lol.
Somehow during the disassembly process I lost all of my dowel pins. I don't know how I did that. I've looked everywhere and I can't find them and so I'm wondering if they are 100% necessary or if I can just use the screw holes as locating pins?
You are going to need them, treats ought to have them.
The case center gasket sets the bearing clearance, you need to buy a factory one of them, plus they are a huge pain to cut. Put in a treats order for the dowels and a gasket set.
I don't know anything about that sealant but you shouldn't need anything between the head and cylinder, or on the base gasket. Generally speaking I don't trust people that work at auto parts stores or Harley people for advice on just about anything. Anyone that goops the head on a Harley is 100% blowing it.
Don't use red loctite either, you can use it on the cylinder studs going into the case and that's it. There is no reason for it and when you take this apart again you'll strip all the screws.
Last time I put those bolts in as tight as I possibly could and they were all finger-type when I removed them, they were all falling out. I was told heat made red loctite loose so if I ever wanted to take it apart all I had to do is heat it up with a blowtorch which is what I did for putting the bearings in. I'm asking should I use blue loctite? I already have gaskets from treatland but they do not have dowel pins available right now. That's why I'm asking if I line it up really carefully by eye, would that work? Dowel pins are the only thing stopping me from proceeding with the engine. I can't find them anywhere where I took it apart and I am pretty sure that they fell out during disassembly, or on the road. I know I can't use plastic because the case gets really hot but could I use wood, does it have to be metal because it only metal ones I can find are super big. Can I get copper tube and cut it into pieces and round off the edges?
One more thing I'm not using the gasket sealer for my head, I'm going to use it for the main crankcase, and not as a replacement for gasket but as a sealer for the gasket, it's supposed to hold the gasket in place while I put it in kind of helping me not needing dowel pins if I can do that, but that's not the reason I bought it.
Today is Easter Sunday, Happy Easter everyone!
It's the day that the local hardware stores are closed, and wouldn't you know it, I need supplies. So to combat this, I will choose this beautiful spring day to get some work done on the frame.
Starting with disassembly.
Removing the gas tank was simple it was missing its bolt. Only being held on by two rubber pads at the front.
Man, I hate that the previous owner painted this, it looks so bad!
and the over spray is simply disheartening. (edited)
Okay so positives, I only had to drill out I've screw throughout the whole disassembly process, my brakes look to be in good shape, and I only lost 1 ball bearing removing the fork 😶 lol, oh well, I'm sure I'll find it.
My frame is almost disassembled and ready to be powder coated black. I'm keeping something of the original blue so that I can match it if I ever wanted to go back.
At the end of the day, I feel accomplished, and isn't that what matters?
Today I took the ped apart, into the main pieces I want to get powder coated, and inspected every part along the way.
My front and rear brakes are good, the cables need to be replaced.
Almost every bolt and nut will be replaced with new non rusted components.
My rear wheel bearings need to be replaced.
My wiring is good.
My tires need to be replaced, and one was installed backwards, which I already knew about and have the parts for.
My forks are in fantastic shape.
This ped only had 3k miles on it, so despite it being 21 years old it should be in great shape. The frame and body are mostly rust free, and the parts that have rust can be repaired super easy.
Overall I have high hopes for this build.
Nice!
Let me check my stash and I can send you some dowels.
You don't need any sealant on the gaskets. I usually wipe them down with a thin smear of 2 stroke oil to swell them so they seal better.
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Nice!
>
> Let me check my stash and I can send you some dowels.
>
> You don't need any sealant on the gaskets. I usually wipe them down with
> a thin smear of 2 stroke oil to swell them so they seal better.
Okay thanks.
That makes sense. The only reason that I ever bought sealant was because I was watching a YouTube video a year ago when I did the first build and that guy used sealant. If I can return this and use the money to buy circlip pliers to get to second gear so I can fix that shoe, that would be great.
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