MOPED ARMY

Sometimes the spark plug wires fuck with the gauges. Do math divide in half then…20,000rpms call it 10,000. For $25 bucks it offers temp, rpms , hours and more thats dirt cheap!

Had the opposite problem temp was all over the place tach was okayish.

That’s kinda the good and bad ain’t? It does all that for only 40 bucks, almost too good to be true! Haha I agree with the posts above tough my idle always read super high and once you got any serious power going it was very jumpy, enough so it was almost useless (edited)

Just to re-iterate a few things that have already been said

Right out of the box replace the battery (at least you can change the battery, this is the soul reason I switched to these, you pay 40-50$ for a trail teck and cant replace the batteries when they die), it will negate many of the posted issues

The sensor on the plug is a bit weak but can be replaced if broken, also if you break the lead, you can zip tie the brass to your plug and it works fine

The RPM sensor works well IF you swap it to 2-stroke mode, and keep the sensor wire tight on the plug wire (just tape it on there)

Of the 6 or so Im using only one started acting up and reading the wrong temps ( you could tell as it would read consistently 40 degrees hotter then it really was, 60 out temp reads 100), that said I got them on sale for 15$ so who gives a shit, swap it out for another one, go on with your day

Yeah for ppl that don't know, you take your spark plug boot off the wire, then you wrap it, and put heat shrink over the windings. It stays in place and doesn't look stupid.

And yeah you gotta rtfm and click through the menu for the right mode, one cylinder, 2 spark per rev, but the mode fucks up and resets if the battery is low.

Ohhhj heat shrink idea sounds good, I still have mine and will give this a shot for sure

I've been meaning to do a 3d printed handlebar clamp for this guy too.

This would be very tight. My printer's been running for like the last 3 weeks straight printing out some other hobby stuff.

Just installed the Runleader I had. Seems to work fine and I like the on/off switch function. It was a little work to change it from C to F but so far so good.

The one minor issue I have (and not the Runleader's fault) is that there isn't a great place to mount it. On stock handlebars, there's no real straight / horizontal section to install it. We kinda made it work with zip ties and tape but may need to come up with something else as a mount.

I have one on my Stella. I don’t trust the temp gauge. It doesn’t seem to go over 300 ever, even when I managed to soft seize the other day.

Hit it with a bernzo torch and see. Fan cool bikes rarely go over 300 and can seize much lower than free air.

How do I know what boots are resisted? I have a plug that has a big fat "R" on it, do I assume that it is resisted. The packaging says nothing to this effect. Is the resistance marked on the boots tho? Mine says nothing, it is just rubber.... And I have some of these hard plastic NGK ones on other bikes.

Best way to know for sure is test each component with a multi meter .

Almost any resistor type plug or cap can be made non-resistor easy enough .

Just stick a multi meter probe in /on both ends at once with the meter set to OHMs .

Hard plastic caps are usually resistor type , unless they have been altered .

Soft rubber caps are usually non-resistor type .

Spark plugs will usually be marked with an R somewhere in the number , if they are resistor type . They can also be tested for resistance , to be sure .