MOPED ARMY

Integrated pipe into swingarm bro do it

I feel like way that the rear wheel/transmission mounts is what makes it difficult to do it any other way except square. It could definitely be done, it's just easier to make it a dumb looking box than a cool normal looking swingarm

Just throwing ideas that might be in your wheel house.....

Why not a trellis swingarm/subfram?

Yeah my concern was it would just wear between the brass and alum. Probably better tho

Prob with a longer belt is finding one that works well. The 1800treats belt is the pinnacle of hobbit belts. Bx sucks shit. Ax is ok but you lose a lot of variation. So you better plan on making a special longer 15.5mm belt

I've had good luck with my design over the years. Lots of highspeed runs, crashing, and getting air off railroad tracks. No cracks or bending that I can tell. I really like the added strength of the tube connecting the bracing to the lower engine mounts. However, it's a circus act getting the rear wheel and trans in/out. It can be done, but if there was a way to keep the ends of the swingarm open so the wheel pulls out the back like stock, I'd go that direction. Keeping the bracing low allows me to run the shortest intake possible with big reeds and a tm24.

I love Joe's design he landed on, but the individual mounting points set into curved tubing really complicates things. It looks fantastic but would be much more difficult to build.

Multiple people have mentioned they would like to have me weld up a custom hobbit subframe but no one has yet to pull the trigger. I've imagined I would build one with a combination of tube and plate.

Just using some pictures from Joes thread as an example, I would cut the individual end plates out of probably 1/4" steel.

Instead of using more plate to connect the front and back like his original design, I would do something almost identical in the ladder pattern but with thin chromoly tubing.

Maybe 3/4" .049 wall tube for the top and bottom and 1/2" or 3/8" .035 as the cross ladder bars. Its possible it would be rigid enough to just use .035 wall tube for the whole assembly. Maybe even 3/16 plate instead of 1/4. Anything to cut weight because no matter what that thing is probably gonna be hefty. (edited)

Thank you

Jake basically described exactly what ide like.

Plates for the mounts, trellis tube for the midsection, 3/4 round hoop with the trans mounts inside like joes for the rear.

Use the 2in longer belt and make room for the carb

can I just suggest someone finally put a rear wheel adjustment that isn't just an open slot? Like put a system in place where the wheel position is repeatable. You know, like most bikes came stock with.

Like Joe was saying, the one downside to his design is the closed in hoop on the rear makes it so the wheel can't just pull out. Thats why I would consider plates for front and back. If you aren't concerned with that issue then for sure go for it.

Graham, yeah I think 1/8" could probably be alright but I wouldn't go any thinner. It would indeed be cool to slot and bullnose the tubes. We do this at work for some engine mounts, I might even have the dies for 3/4 tube already accessible.

I definitely like Jesse's idea of adding in wheel adjusters.

Jake I was gonna say post some pics. When Tyler and I talked about this years ago he sent me a pic of something you guys made that was really nicely done like that.

I've seen it done on bicycle frames and stuff like that. You could fillet braze it and make it super nice if you wanted to.

Im already doing this for sp intakes, but yeah ide like to do a hydro upgrade and get dies that arnt homemade

My first die