Has anyone tried one? Airsal usually makes good cranks (I always run their stuffed cranks on my mobys), but 60$!? The Moby version is 100$ I think?
Whatcha think?
Has anyone tried one? Airsal usually makes good cranks (I always run their stuffed cranks on my mobys), but 60$!? The Moby version is 100$ I think?
Whatcha think?
What I've noticed is usually crankshafts under $99 doesn't have a hole drilled on the small end to lubricate the bearing. $99 and over crankshafts do. The ones without the hole drilled to me is more for stockish setups that don't see hi rpms or get beat on. So I would say if you're going for a mild build, go for it. If you're trying to blast hard don't do it........
> Stephen Simmons wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> What I've noticed is usually crankshafts under $99 doesn't have a hole
> drilled on the small end
Good point, I've scattered a couple small end bearings but never really paid much attention to the hole being there or not. I have drilled them out and chamfered bushing ones, but I don't know if the roller needs that much oil? (edited)
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Stephen Simmons wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > What I've noticed is usually crankshafts under $99 doesn't have a hole
>
> > drilled on the small end
>
> Good point, I've scattered a couple small end bearings but never really
> paid much attention to the hole being there or not. I have drilled them
> out and chamfered bushing ones, but I don't know if the roller needs
> that much oil?
I've scattered a few in rods without the hole. Never have I in rods with the hole.
I'm sure a hole could be drilled in that 60 dollar small end . ;)
> P D wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I'm sure a hole could be drilled in that 60 dollar small end . ;)
I was just thinking the same exact thing
Honestly, even on some of my real fast builds, I use the stock crank, its help up at 57mph with no issues
the last Artek crank I used the conrod was 4-6mm longer then stock, so on the stroke it was like 2ish mm longer? Created a bunch of headaches, buuuut the other Artek crank Im running was perfect, so a drop in option would be nice...
Or maybe its time to use that Malossi stroker crank I have laying around.....
> Toledo Riot wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > P D wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > I'm sure a hole could be drilled in that 60 dollar small end . ;)
>
> I was just thinking the same exact thing
>
> Honestly, even on some of my real fast builds, I use the stock crank,
> its help up at 57mph with no issues
>
> the last Artek crank I used the conrod was 4-6mm longer then stock, so
> on the stroke it was like 2ish mm longer? Created a bunch of headaches,
> buuuut the other Artek crank Im running was perfect, so a drop in option
> would be nice...
>
> Or maybe its time to use that Malossi stroker crank I have laying
> around.....
If the artek conrod was longer the stroke should still be the same though?
Isn't that what the malossi crank is, longer conrod but same stroke to help vibrations?
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Jeeez that's a fuckin deal. I mean nobody's gonna really know for a at
> least a couple thousand blast miles but it's airsal I mean they always
> got pretty decent stuff.
>
> Made this meme for another thread but I'm so excited to use it again.
> Maybe I'll get some more use out of it...
You better watch out Graham, you're adding fuel to Roff's "Graham's an Airsal-apologist" argument.
> Dirty30 Dillon wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Graham Motzing wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Jeeez that's a fuckin deal. I mean nobody's gonna really know for a at
>
> > least a couple thousand blast miles but it's airsal I mean they always
>
> > got pretty decent stuff.
>
> >
>
> > Made this meme for another thread but I'm so excited to use it again.
>
> > Maybe I'll get some more use out of it...
>
> You better watch out Graham, you're adding fuel to Roff's "Graham's an
> Airsal-apologist" argument.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I had to look at that again, does it not have any balance holes or is there some magic happening I don't understand.
The other one has aluminum stuffy plugs, but the 55$ one doesn't look like it has any. That can't be right, right?
For cheap , maybe they say 'do your own balancing' ? LOL
> L e e wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Toledo Riot wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > > P D wrote:
>
> >
>
> > > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
>
> > > I'm sure a hole could be drilled in that 60 dollar small end . ;)
>
> >
>
> > I was just thinking the same exact thing
>
> >
>
> > Honestly, even on some of my real fast builds, I use the stock crank,
>
> > its help up at 57mph with no issues
>
> >
>
> > the last Artek crank I used the conrod was 4-6mm longer then stock, so
>
> > on the stroke it was like 2ish mm longer? Created a bunch of
> headaches,
>
> > buuuut the other Artek crank Im running was perfect, so a drop in
> option
>
> > would be nice...
>
> >
>
> > Or maybe its time to use that Malossi stroker crank I have laying
>
> > around.....
>
> If the artek conrod was longer the stroke should still be the same
> though?
>
> Isn't that what the malossi crank is, longer conrod but same stroke to
> help vibrations?
you could have a longer conrod if it was set in the lobe properly to correct the stroke? But if its in the same spot in the lobe with a longer rod it messes with port timing, and caused the piston head to protrude past the lip of the cylinder, on 4 separate cylinders, 2 of which I slapped on stock motors, just to check, the issue went away.
Also Im with Grahm, pro-Airsal alllll the way
Yeah the longer rod is going to put the piston further out of the hole. You could have a shorter stroke but then your port timings will be off. Spacing or cutting down the cylinder is the only way to fix that.
I think some of the clones like wallaroo have different spacing, maybe that's the rod issue? Maybe the crank is meant for a different clone bike or something. Lots of weird nos parts from different markets floating around with treats and dos scouring the globe. Also they made different weird racey shit over the years that turns up every now and then.
I think this belongs here
So has anyone tried one yet?
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