MOPED ARMY

The pug vario clutch is actually pretty good, it can be tuned and has a nice engagement. It's great for stock and even your middle of the road kitted builds.

The clutch pulley is much more aggressive, it takes a lot of work to make it really work well but once it's dialed in it will let you rip on screamer high rpm ripper setups.

Usually if you have to ask, you will want to run the stock setup. There is plenty of info on stock vario tuning including a really good thread that just got bumped. If you really build to the next level you will know when it's time.

If your interested in making a fast 50cc motor the clutch pulley is really your only avenue to bottom end, however I have found them unneeded for the most part when going 70cc's. As Graham said, the stock vario tuned is very nice, but the ER3 or the Malossi Multivar are fantastic with a stock pulley

If your going 50cc's your gonna want a pully for sure, its the real ticket to get bottom end outta them

Yes to what graham says that the stock vario clutch is ok for stock and middle of the road builds. Where it begins to suffer is when you start adding pipes and really twisting the RPMS up tight,

The components begin to fail in three ways. First the composite clutch disc crack and break from excessive RPM or the locking ears start to shear off the disc from mods to the weights in the variators engagement point or the removing of more than two thrust balls from the thrust plate to delay engagement and gain initial higher RPM at take off.

Another way the stock variator clutch well fail from performance mods is that the higher RPM stresses the clutch locking ring and causes it to snap followed by the shearing off of all the clutch disc ears. This is especially prone to happen when the builder has removed the primary starter clutch shoes to once again gain that sweet sweet clutch slip off the line .

I have in the past built in some extra support post on the locking ring to help keep the locking ring from warping and snapping due to the empty space left by the missing starter shoes. It worked good for a long time but eventually snapped.

The third week link is the the clutch bells center double"D" hole that locks onto the crank shaft. Variator mod and high RPM Wheelie engagement will cause the center of the bell to "round out" or to snap the center out completely.

I have read on here that people have had success avoiding the "rounding out" by tack welding the double"D" washer to the clutch bell as it gives it double the surface area connecting to the crankshaft.

That method is great but it wont help when the cent decides to just snap out. It's all going to go.

This is a great info. Hopefully anyone else can use for info down the line.

I ended up with a

Doppler 50cc h20

Polini race case party

Artek crank

Er3

Clutch pulley.

Cdi

Etc etc

It might a solid step into the ripper category.

Rad mount is likely going to be my next issue to resolve.

Thats a great looking platform bike. Attention to detail will also help your sucsess

Ya. Easier said than done. My hype level is up there.

Thanks for help. I'm sure I'll be asking for more.

There are some good posts on radiator options, Andy scouten has posted some you tube vids as well that walk through a H2O setup. Just make sure you get all the air out of the system before you start giving it the beans.

If you keep the timing low and run heavy weights to start with, it will give you a lot more margin for error as you tune. Worst thing you can do is high timing, air leak (or rings not seated) and high rpm with no load. Running heavy weights will keep the engine from wanging up to a million rpm while you're still trying to figure everything out.