MOPED ARMY

As a result instead of a hex head bolt like the standard ktm, they have a socket head bolt.

On mine 1 had a low profile socket and one had a button head. Both of them are m6 plain bolts with a m4 drive, which seems kinda chincy.

Instead of a shoulder (knockoff KTM) or a spacer (og ktm) they are using a plain bolt that is actually bottomed out into the tapped hole and secured with red Loctite. AT low spring pressures and load this is probably acceptable. Since it’s a fairly light coil spring, I reckon this would hold up decently right out of the box.

Finally, this is the piece that we were talking about in the other thread. It would be trivially easy to make this, this one looks homemade, hard to say if it was ever run or not like this. Its just a tapered bushing pressed into the hole and machined to the correct (smaller) inner size to go onto the V1 crank.

Thank you for coming to my Ted talk.

If anyone has any experience or tunign tips for this botanas clutch, i'm all ears. I'm going to have to buy another china KTM clutch to get some of the parts i'm missing to make this work, and i'm also going to source some hardware store/mcmaster springs like some people talked about in the other KTM e50 thread, and see if i cant get these to work.

I think I have one of the early ones since I bought it before they were for sale on the website. I've had quite a bit of trouble with it. Multiple rounds of loctite of blue and red variety and it's always tossed a bolt after a very low number of miles.

That being said, I think this would be a great performance replacement with a little alteration. I think the open, full thread bolt is the weak point because it has to rely on the threads holding the whole things together. Yes, you can bottom it out but, when I did that with mine, it would barely grab the preload was so high.

I need to think about this more but shoulder bolts are on my list as that can help set preload while bottoming out on the top and holding the threads tighter.

Or maybe I just suck at clutches, I don't know.

Why is there no V1 jammer clutch

Has anyone tried making a stock V1 clutch out of high grade aluminum or whatever is strong enough (I'm not a metal scientist) but also light?

I was looking at it today again, it's not a modified KTM, it doesn't have the kickstart drive on it, it does look like the same style of forging so maybe it's adapted from another mass market kiddy dirt bike application? I dunno, cool either way.

Awesome that's exactly the kind of thing I was trolling for... You know the old trick where nobody will give up the info until you post the wrong info then everyone shows up to correct you?

Haha

I looked a bit closer at that last night and you're totally right, they are sloppy as hell.

Ran into another problem building the bottom end, damn crank bushing to the clutch bell is way too small. Do they have different clutch bells or are they just different bushings? Am I safe just boring the thing out in a lathe?

Nah boring out the brass bushing, currently it's 13mm id x 17 OD by 27L, I need it to be 14 mm id.

Oh yeah just looked it up, I just need the other bushing, no biggie.

Also some shimmy shimmy

Gol darn V1s I tell ya

I know you can't see it over the internet but I'm making a face.

I got on of these botanas clutch and has been waiting for the project to move along.

Time has com!! .....and it's (of course) keeping me from having fun.

Where are we at with spring tension? I'm getting zero engagement.

Just pulled the clutch and adjust bolts to 3 turns in from flush with pads. Still nada.

:-(

my review of the 1977/DOS E50 superclutch was very thorough on ways to make it better.its not easy and because of all the aftermarket parts you have to buy, the treatmetric clutch is actually cheaper and far easier to tune.

it seems my review was deleted...it was at best constructive criticism.

i did not mess with the Pins and completely agree they are a problem too. once you get it all tuned up and it stops falling apart, it likes to get bound up and stuck engaged.

You're getting no engagement? Are the shoes free to move out? Everything is tight on the shafts?

Right out of the box it ought to work

Ya nothing...

I pulled it all apart and the shoes all slid off the pins easy.

Made sure all my gearing was in alignment.

Only thing that could be is the clutch is just spinning in the bell and not centrifuging. So I backed the bolts off. Still nothing.

Also will disclose its a fancy cnc bell ( which shouldn't matter )

Measure cnc bell vs stock bell.

Stock measured 84mm

Cnc measured 83.9x

Also think I found the issue. The bolts too short. With the bolts torqued &/or 3 turns from flush compressed the springs so the shoes had zero movement. Got some 25mm m6 button heads and I can actually pull the shoes away from the core.

Got too late so tomorrow will be the test.

These are the bolt that came with the clutch.

Plus a washer.

I got some 25mm instead of 19mm.

And at least had grab to pull me up and down the block.

Yeah that style is counting on it just bottoming out in the hole, not the best design. A shoulder bolt is better but there isn't a lot of room with how small everything is.

I guess get longer screws and maybe trim them to fit