yooooo
anybody ever run a KTM clutch in a V1?
I know people used to put the V1 bells in e50's so they could use the ktm, so it stands to reason you can just machine the taper on the KTM clutch and pop it in a V1, right?
I can't find ANY info on someone doing it. Is there something i'm missing?
E50 taper is wider than v1. E50 and ktm share the same taper. In order to get the KTM on v1 you'd need to add material in taper and machine that to be correct or have a cone adapter of some sort to go between clutch & crank.
Thinking about it now I have enough KTM hubs chilling and they're cheap enough I might try doing the taper welding and recutting to v1 spec sometime
Oh shoot, that's easy, I've made taper adapter cones to run XR 50 ignition on puch, cooooooooooooooool
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Yea if you make cone adapters and feel like selling 1 or 2 I'd totally be into that
👀👀
Cool I just picked up a kickstart v1 from dos... The cylinder I'm putting on it will probably destroy anything else, and will probably destroy the china KTM but.... Science!
I keep running shit through my mind on how to make a manual wet disc clutch for a V1, but haven't come up with anything.
The clutch itself I could do, but the lever action stumps me.
FWIW I feel a little hesitant about a taper cone, unless you reinforce the retaining clip somehow.
I have a V1 hammer clutch that will always do a lateral motion and suck the seals out
I have a cone adapter already. Came in a clutch kit from SA that was doing exactly what you're trying to accomplish. When I get back in town I'll dig it up if that's helpful.
Blake, maybe if you can dig it out and get me pics and measurements, sounds like this might be worth making a few.
Maitland: I'm not quite sure what you mean, you are talking about the clearance between the snap ring holding the bell on and it's clearance outward going towards the clutch? Maybe that will have to be shimmed or the spacer will need a small shoulder.
IDK I'm just saying I had a bad experience with a taper that was just slightly off on a performance clutch, and so would be hesitant to try something that also isn't a uniform taper, but to be fair I never actually determined why that one clutch fails but I was able to confirm the failure mode was the same regardless of engine I used
@maity, use the metal seals and forget you ever had issues with seals popping out.
Ktm hub and V1 taper
I just finished this. Essentially the same as this Hero single speed. I’ve put the Ktm 50 clutch in a tomos too.
A bit of warning. Welding together these two different materials can get nasty. The cast hub of the Ktm must be stripped bare of all waxes and grease. They’re really gross and end up fucking up all your clean work right at the end.
Man that's definitely a different way to do it, Did you take a stock clutch and cut it down or machine the bushing and weld it in?
I had a junk clutch I just threw away, shoot, hate to cut up a good one but I can at least measure it.
If you want to clutch it'll last forever get this one even comes with a slinger plate.
Just machine your old one down and machine the center of this one out press them together drill too small holes through it where the two pieces are pressed parallel with the crankshaft thread and install Allen set screws with loctite.
You will need to mix a little sulfur powder a teaspoon with your oil to make it rip your face off.
my favorite V1 clutch (edited)
Damn that's no joke, steel on steel huh?
I didn't even realize, dos has this:
https://www.doscycles.com/products/minarelli-v1-botanas-racing-clutch?_pos=1&_sid=9528f738c&_ss=r
Pretty much solves that problem, 75 for a racer clutch is cheap cheap
It's not steel on steel it's like a metallic bronze.
The same stuff is those racing clutches for cars and stuff that just had those three little pads that's what these are.
And if you're super slick and you cut down the shoes you can put two sets in staggered as a six shoe.
Set one of them up so it will slip but never grab so you can get off the line when you don't need to do full power take offs and then when you want to do a full power take off just pour on the power and slide through the first clutch until the second one removes the skin from your face.
I had one of those clutches like that about 15 years ago that Benji gave me.
It lasted about 4 days before the screws and the little wafer springs just became a nightmare and then it started to delaminate so I didn't even bother to do a write-up on it.
Have you looked at the KTM Junior clutch it's almost exactly what that dose thing is but a better quality. (edited)
Yeah the KTM clutch is what this thread is about, Todd posted pics but here is a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0839BKPR4/
I am putting it in a kickstart v1 so I'll probably just see what happens since it's 20 bucks so fuckit.
I've never really messed with the chainsaw clutches but they engage with a lot less torque transfer/converter action. It's a lot of effort for something that's less proven/demonstrated, the KTM clutch is really well documented with lots of people running it, cheap and easy to get, and you can upgrade all the parts to OEM stuff if the china junk isn't cutting it.
Well sorry Graham why don't you just go ahead and delete all my posts in this thread then for me thank you.
I opened it.
You can really see the weld contamination behind that washer. The slug is welded in the hub on both sides. I ain’t to worried about it. That’s a stock v1 bell with the starter teeth removed.
Doin big thangs with that hero engine. Almost makes me wish I hadn't sold off the two I had. Ha!
Daniel it didn't matter if they were metal or rubber
The clutch taper is malformed in such a way it will suck all seals out no matter what
Have you tried doing a little trick like many engineers have.
There is a reason they put oil slingers that look like fender washers close to a seal.
No, I try the magic trick of not using a failed component.
I like totally understand that Matt.
The old adage of sorting through the Carnage to eliminate the cause.
Just wondering if it wasn't moisture from SF humidity that was in the oil.
And as your transmission oil exceeded the boiling temperature of the water.
And then when you're transmission cool down I suspect you don't have a small hole drilled in your fill cap.
A plugged vent would create a vacuum inside the transmission much like the process of canning food.
That I could understand vacuum in the transmission pulling the seal into the transmission easily. (edited)
So it did work for a while TBH, pretty sure it was the clutch that got me up to the top of Mt Diablo too!
Then one day it started sucking seals out.
I rebuilt the motor with a new crank, still did it
I swapped the clutch over to a known good bottom end on another bike, sucked the seal out too.
I just said screw it at that point and put it on the shelf of shame. I still have it I think the taper is just worn in a wierd way
Dos hooked it up yet again, like 3 days shipping on this bad boy.... Blake said it's' in rough shape' fer crying out loud I could probably put a top end in her and wash the spiders out the bottom end and rip it as is.
I haven't actually owned one of these or seen it in person, guess the starter drive is actually riveted onto the clutch. This one is a stub plane so the clutch wouldn't work for me anyhow on the new roller crank, so I'll have to do some fuckin around but I'm heading out of town for a week so it will have to wait until I get back.
I was thinking it was just a big washer like dingus like some of the other bikes run. Either way not a big deal I'll just cut it off, but then I'll have to either weld it to the KTM hub or figure out a clever way to pin it so it can act like a washer and float, either way the kick teeth will have to get cut off the KTM so hopefully it's a nice soft forging and not some geezin hard thing.
Why not just machine it from the back side and stick your KTM clutch on it.
Can you post a pic of the back side.
Stub planes are so easy to remove for servicing.
Yeah that was mine I'd be grind in the pins out of the back side and peeling the crimp off to get that plate off and then cutting the center down on the lathe and mounting that chainsaw clutch on there but I'm not supposed to talk about chainsaw cuz she's right I don't know why that is but I guess it strikes in there with people to use something that might last more than a week.
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