MOPED ARMY

No, using the stock HT coil

i've been rocking the olympia coil on my pietcard setups, they seem to work quite well too

Just curious, what is the resistance in ohms of the "pietcard coil"

That is all that matters in this circuit.

I assume your current coil is outside of spec

I just got done kinda figuring out this combo. I set mine up on an E50, starting first with the 2013 box. In my experience, if it idles but will not rev, flip the flywheel 180°. It's wanting to run backwards, but it fired up forwards, cause that's how it is.

Set it exactly opposite of where the woodruff key would go. Figure out your fire mark again and set it up as you had it.

It clicked for me when one time I started and it kicked back and ran backwards. And it rev'd! So many times of just idle, no power, no rev. Hope this helps.

Did you try swapping the lighting coil location with the Pietcard location.

Threw the Pietcard ht coil on today, no change sadly. Spent an hour trying basically every position and combination the flywheel could fit on, coul flipped in and out, it either backfires / sputters or does the wonky idle with no rev.

I made a quick video before today’s rage quit showing the motor running at idle with various timing marks 1-5.

In the video I’m using the stock key position. I’ve tried timing to various of the marks like I would my hpi but womp womp.

Edit: YouTube destroyed this video, can barely see shit (edited)

I can next time I’m out in the garage

I have a spare za flywheel I can try using before this goes in my parts bin.

And you're probably noticing that it only has one point at which it is firing the ignition.

And if you had looked closely inside that flywheel you would have seen that it was One singular magnet wrapped all the way through the flywheel.

Rather than the four magnets in the normal Bosch ZA E-50 flywheel but yours was probably more like 10 because of all the shattered magnetic material causing multiple flashes on your timing light (edited)

Late to the party but I went thru this exact same thing. You do indeed have to run without the woodruff key, because it will always spark where it does, so you have to set flywheel onto the crank as near to correct timing as possible, then fine tune after by moving the backplate.

Your drill speed is in the zone of the kickstart retard these CDI's have, which you can see here in my post. This can be misleading for your base timing setup.

Puch E50 Pietcard 3055 and 2041 timing problem

So make sure you have the right flywheel, and timing set properly per the basics, and accounting for the initial kickstart retard. It is a good setup if you can master the installation

What measurement are you looking for? The two coils of the 3055?

No im interested in the HT coil measurements

Since people report issues using their stock HT coils with pietcard, that's the first thing is check

I am going to try this again today.

I think my last cdi box failed because I was using treats internal cdi ignition coil and golden magneto. I am now switching back to a stock magneto and stock internal light coils.

I am now going to use the pietcard 3055 internal ignition coil with a 2041 cdi box.

I have one working very well on another bike. It was a PAIN to get working!

What's crazy about it IS.. (if I remember correctly)

...I think I got it working when timing was set exactly at Top Dead Center (TDC)..

The bike that is working well is a superstock maxi with a 3055 internal coil and a 2013 cdi box and a pietcard HT coil.

I forget the magneto #(I think a 066) or if the internal coil is flipped (I am guessing numbers out: not flipped)..

I am pretty sure that the 3055 internal coil is still in the upper right position on the stator plate.

I don't want to take the cover off of the bike that is working right now but I might have to if this doesn't work today.

Oh I am not an electrician but I believe the Pietcard HT coil tested at 3.45k...