Building a ZA50.

I picked up a pretty nice Maxi Sport MKII last week. The frame sticker says it's a 1.5HP. I cleaned the carb and realized it a 12mm bing.... Then I looked at the cylinder and noticed it's a restricted 1HP cylinder. Lame.

I got it running and it goes 23MPH on flat. I'm 6'2" 280lbs. So that seems to be pretty good for a totally stock 1HP Puch. I've ordered shift pucks and cover gaskets. I'll check to see what the gearing is in the trans when those come in. The case number matches the frame, so I'm hoping someone just put a 1HP top end on the 1.5 ZA50 trans.

I have a good 14mm Bing carb, a new Techno Boss pipe, and a new treats 70cc kit on hand. The 70cc kit is for another bike but I'm not opposed to using it on this one. I have no experience with a ZA or a 1HP cylinder. Will the 14 bing and Boss pipe do this 1HP cylinder any good? Would a stock 1.5/2HP cylinder with that pipe and carb do 40MPH reliably? Or is a 70cc kit necessary to do that?

Re: Building a ZA50.

What do you want out of it?

I think 40 is doable with a pipe/carb and stock kit, maybe ditch the head gasket for a smidge more compression.

REQUIRED ZA50 ROFFMAN NOTICE

ZAs apparently don't like high RPMs so if you do kit it, flip second and gear high. Enjoy 2 gears it rules as long as it doesn't break

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I would love to hit a solid and reliable 45MPH. But 40MPH is good enough to get around on in traffic.

I've used a belt sander to cut the head down on two stock bikes. Made a really noticeable difference in power on a bike that already had a pipe and carb on. That'll happen on this bike if I keep with a stock cylinder. I plan on flipping 2nd gear when I rip into it for the shift puck replacement.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Do the transmission pucks + flip second whatever you do

The 70cc treat kit / 14 bing will be good. Ditch the boss pipe for a low RPM pipe like a circuit or estoril. Gear tall to keep rpms down to protect your stock crank. Oh my two ZAs I’m at 19/38 (city bike) on one and 19/35 (cruiser bike) on the other.

Enjoy low to mid 40s without having to even think about messing shims and save $250 on bearings, seals, crank, and another $250+ for the factory shim tools. (edited)

Re: Building a ZA50.

I think you will have problems seating on the side that is in the top of the photo

Re: Building a ZA50.

A za50 doesnt need a 70cc kit to do 40. If you regear the rear down to like 38t or 40t. You can make it. Back it up with a nice circuit pipe and you can have some decent low end still. Maybe not wheelie city, but a good top end.

Re: Building a ZA50.

The ZAs are amazing if you can upkeep them and if you do all your bearing work right. My first build was a ZA, and it was a lesson in patience getting it all built but it was oh so worth it once it got finished. (edited)

Re: Building a ZA50.

Richard Eberline /

The crankshaft brass bushings on both ends, good luck with your high rpm kit.

They require 500.00 worth of specialized tools. I have some of these tools.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Alex Fredericksen /

Yo. Surprised no one posted this yet.

https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/ZA50

When you're doing your transmission stuff take the time to count the teeth on your gears. Then you will know for sure if you have a 1HP or 1.5 / 2 HP. The Wiki on ZA's if very helpful. Read it twice, you'll be gravy.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I've been away from mopeds for awhile. I replaced the shift pucks and flipped the clutch. I got lucky and I do have a 1.5/2 HP transmission.

I went ahead and put the 70CC treats kit on it and lightly port matched the case. I put a 15 bing clone with on it that I had and pulled the circuit pipe from my Pinto2. Also put an 82 jet in for break in. It 4 stroked bad. Next size down I have on hand was a 79 so that is what it got.

It ran fine during break in and easy riding. I put about 5 miles on it before trying to go WOT. I got to 33MPH and it sputtered and died. It fired up perfect later that day but died again after a WOT pull. Next morning it fired up and made it about 1/2 mile under WOT before it died. The engine never seized, fuel flow is perfect, carb is clean, I THINK I have a bad condenser. Ran out of time to test it anymore.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Probably Fred /

If it’s dying with full throttle that has nothing to do with the condenser

If it’s dying with full throttle could mean it’s choking itself out probably due to the incorrect atomizer/needle jet and possible needle and other incorrect made parts a clone carburetor has.

You could have a fuel flow problem at full throttle, do you have an in-line fuel filter?

You didn’t state what kind of air cleaner you have on there either.

If it’s stock then it will run too rich with that jet you should try with no air cleaner or a metal mesh filter,

You do know that the treats kit is not base spaced correctly so the piston is covering up some of the ports as well as piston and ring is in the exhaust port,

You also didn’t state what your timing was set at or what your head temperature gauge says as well as what your gearing is,

If you have short geared sprockets 33 mph could be very high rpm

The gearing chart on here could tell you what your bike mph is at any given RPM after you put in correct the information (sprockets, tire size etc) https://toolbox.martysgarage.info/

If you give all the information it’s more easy to diagnose problems

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I have the cylinder spaced up with some gaskets and the piston clears the exhaust port. I havent measured squish yet, but I have a high compression head on it so I'm sure it's decent. Im trying the high compression since it won't be a high RPM engine. 18x40 gearing right now, im waiting on 19 and 20T front sprockets and 37T rear to come in the mail. Timing is at 16 degrees checked with a timing light.

The Bing clone has a 2.17 atomizer, bing needle, bing top, bing slide, etc. Its just a clone body and bowl.

The petcock, fuel hose, and inline filter are new. The bike stalls out and I immediately checked for fuel. Fuel flow was great.

I'm thinking that the engine gets hot on a WOT long pull and the condenser craps out. Then it cools off and works fine again. I might be wrong, probably am. But I'm out of state for work and can't work on it right now.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Do you give it the beans on the stand and it just kinda

Bahhhhhhsssss

Then dies?

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

> * wormdirt * Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Do you give it the beans on the stand and it just kinda

>

> Bahhhhhhsssss

>

> Then dies?

Maybe. I havent tried that. I'll see what it does when I get back in town. I just wanted to go for a quick ride and maybe a jet change or two while I was home. I was pretty frustrated when it died.

When it dies, it does not restart until it's cooled off. No amount of starter fluid, pedaling, etc will get it to fire up. No water or debris in the fuel bowl. The 14 bing was doing the same thing so I swapped the 15 bing clone onto it.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Probably Fred /

Do you start with throttle full open when hot ?

Re: Building a ZA50.

If you have points and condenser , replace the condenser .

Quality counts huge .

Re: Building a ZA50.

Alex Fredericksen /

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I got home and replaced the condenser last night. I tested the compression at 215 PSI, so I swapped a different head on and it's now 175 PSI. Then went on a 15 mile night ride. I had no major issues! The silencer fell off of the circuit pipe but that was an easy fix.

It runs great, no 4 stroking, I could probably lean the jet out a size or two judging by the plug. 33 MPH is the fastest it'll go with the stock 18x40 gearing. The speed/rpm calculator show its turning right around 7,000 RPM. Still waiting on 20x37 gearing to come in the mail.

What is the typical RPM for a circuit pipe? I will need to be closer to 9,000 RPM for a solid 45-50 MPH bike. The kit is spaced/clearanced correctly. Using a 15 bing with no filter. Im thinking the intake might be holding it back some. I have two aftermarket ZA50 intakes on hand. They are both round port intakes which I assume is to match up with the stock ZA50 high torque cylinders. I think I have something coming for a square port ZA50 intake and hopefully that'll give me more RPM.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Yeah the za intake will definitely need you up, you'll probably also want to add some gear, it will delay the second great shift a bit and won't hurt accel as much as you think.

Those circuit pipes are done at 9k, really don't make much power above 8k. Crunch your numbers hitting you top speed at 45mph and go through brakes, chain, tires to make sure nothing is holding you back

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I put the 20x37 gearing on it. And swapped the intake out for a 3D printed intake from Wirth It llc. I ended up with 43MPH.

I still need to convert the wheels to sealed bearings and do some minor porting on the cylinder. I think 45MPH on flat is doable with the circuit pipe.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

Since this got bumped. I'll update. I've been riding this bike nearly everyday. I love it! Put a 15 bing on it and it runs the same as it did with the clone. Low 40's MPH. Still haven't serviced the wheel bearings or anything. The 70cc kit is spaced properly, no porting, case matched. The ZA50 hasn't blown up yet! But it's only turning around 7,000 RPM. I would like it to rev another thousand RPM but something is holding it back. Maybe the circuit pipe, IDK.

I've got a 19mm PHBG, intake, etc to swap on it one of these days. But im too busy riding to swap it out. ZA50's rule.

Re: Building a ZA50.

I wouldn't bother with the carb myself. Get after those wheel bearings, you might be surprised at how much free speed is hiding in there.

Re: Building a ZA50.

At 280lbs your probably at a good spot… I have basically the same setup (DMP 70cc kit, 15mm bing) but with 19x38 gearing, “restricted” estoril and 175lbs myself I am doing low 40s and top out at 45mph down a incline. The 19mm carb might make it a bit faster but will mostly make more noise. It would pair nicely with a reed kit setup though.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Beach Club Nick /

> P D Wrote:

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> > juliy wann Wrote:

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> > so what u can do ?

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> REPORTED - SPAM

You know what helps? Quoting the spam so the link lives on after the post is removed...

Re: Building a ZA50.

> Nick MBC Wrote:

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> > P D Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > > juliy wann Wrote:

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> > > -------------------------------------------------------

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> > > so what u can do ?

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> >

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> > REPORTED - SPAM

>

> You know what helps? Quoting the spam so the link lives on after the

> post is removed...

Dang . I guess the mod was doing what they're suppose to as I don't see any link pressured . ;)

Re: Building a ZA50.

Haha, I removed the comment

7k is great, that setup will live forever, you didn't say what circuit pipe, the proma will give you 1000rpm over the tecno, if you have a tecno now. The techno isn't a bad pipe per SE but they have a tendency to shut off abruptly on kitted setups, imo they are best to use on stock only just because they can be weird and unpredictable on different kits.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Haha, I removed the comment

>

> 7k is great, that setup will live forever, you didn't say what circuit

> pipe, the proma will give you 1000rpm over the tecno, if you have a

> tecno now. The techno isn't a bad pipe per SE but they have a tendency

> to shut off abruptly on kitted setups, imo they are best to use on stock

> only just because they can be weird and unpredictable on different kits.

It a DOS circuit pipe. How does it rank with the proma and techno? I kinda thought all circuit pipes were created equally.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Dos circuit is basically a proma copy but actually a little better silencer.

I had to crunch some numbers myself because something seems off, I'm running 15*40 on an e50 with the airsal 44, bing, proma GP and topping out at 45=9000 ish rpm. If anything my gears are a little bit too tall, it was good at 14*40 but I didn't like how buzzy it was at top speed.

You should be going a bit faster barring dragging brakes, bad bearings, etc. That pipe should hit peak power around 8k, and you want to be geared so you rev a little past peak power so as you slow down, your bike digs into the power band and doesn't slow down as much.

My original advice a few months ago was to gear that setup for 8500 at top speed, that works out to 18*35 (assuming you have a 2hp engine) that will probably get you the highest top speed and the best accel. That kit should have no problem pulling those gears.

But seriously, if you like it the way it is, nothing saying you need to screw with it. It's just fine and will run for ever the way it's set up now. I highly doubt the carb will help much, it's just too much gear. Since you probably have the 18 (stock) and wouldn't have to break the chain to swap, it might be worth a try just to see if you like it better.

Re: Building a ZA50.

Taylor King /

I'll play around with gearing. I found a 19 tooth sprocket I knew I had but couldn't find. I also have an 18 on hand. I'll play around with those.

I think I'm pushing the DOS circuit pipe as far as it can go. I have an estoril on 3 other bikes. I dont want to put ANOTHER estoril on this bike. I want some variety! The estoril would be a sure bet on more RPM.

The PHBG killed the 15mm Bing on midrange power on another bike. I wouldn't mind putting the PHBG on this bike to improve midrange. But this bike is pretty original and nice so I would love to keep the sidecovers if possible. And Bings are soooooo reliable and simple.

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