Wow on further inspection it is not that bad. Don’t do what Eric does he no SMarT.
Just buy fresh shoes 👟 👟
Why do the two holes in the hub seem like they are a half a click off from be across from each other ?
I see that too pd.... But they are just the holes for pulling the clutch.
> Jay Rivett wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I see that too pd.... But they are just the holes for pulling the
> clutch.
Yep…stock surflex clutch plate. It does it’s job as is.
> EH 📣FCC of the QCB wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Jay Rivett wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > I see that too pd.... But they are just the holes for pulling the
>
> > clutch.
>
> Yep…stock surflex clutch plate. It does it’s job as is.
Seems they should be directly across to have the straightest pull .
Maybe there's another unknown reason .
Parallax error is the reason
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Parallax error is the reason
Maybe on the part of the manufacturer .
Getting these soon. In the past I've used a fish scale pull method to figure out lbs before engagement and to make sure each shoe is the same. What's the thought on lbs for clutch engagement on claw?
> Nate K wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Getting these soon. In the past I've used a fish scale pull method to
> figure out lbs before engagement and to make sure each shoe is the same.
> What's the thought on lbs for clutch engagement on claw?
Same process
> L e e wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Nate K wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Getting these soon. In the past I've used a fish scale pull method to
>
> > figure out lbs before engagement and to make sure each shoe is the
> same.
>
> > What's the thought on lbs for clutch engagement on claw?
>
> Same process
Anyone have recommended starting point? I always did 25-30 with my stock 2 shoes and ESO springs
With ESO springs I'm right at flush. Engaging around 6-7k . First time with this much stall. Might be too much but we'll see what the pads look like after a couple hundred miles
Finally put a set in a buddy's build, he had bought them a while back and ugh sure enough the holes seem crooked. We can figure that out, my question is-
What oil are people liking most with these? I've been using "two2cool" CTF-R in my ZA50s for the past few years because the stock clutches seem to love it, but wondering if it's not ideal for these kevlar pads...
i've been using B&M Trickshift.
it works really well, but I also use my transmission cooler so who knows how it'll work in a stock system without a cooler.
I have been using Ravenoil. 10-40 dudes on the KTM forum were swearing by it. So far no complaints but the price.
whoa that retainer plate looks sick.
i’m gonna do an oil change and swap over to the “race pads” instead of just the regular ones and see how i like it
does anyone have break-in protocol that they’ve been doing?
If youre using new shoes, let them soak in oil for a full day. Otherwise you have a bigger chance to glaze the friction material.
Honestly that is the way to do it but I have just tossed mine in…I was impatient.
i heard if you can heat the fluid to like 200f, you only need a few hours of soaking
I was just watching roadkill last week and they were talking about breaking in a car clutch, they said, 1000 miles of street driving before giving it the beans.
I wonder if it would be a good idea to run a lighter spring for starters. I almost always do on a new build because it helps me feel out the low end and tip in on the carb.
It kinda makes sense, there is almost a sintering process that happens with brake pads. The heat and pressure fuses the compound together and transfers ceramic material to the steel brake disc, if you don't properly bed in your brakes they just crumble since they aren't fused together.
i’ve been very interested in clutch break-in technique for quite some time.
i’ve done the weaker springs to start and then pumped up the volume on several bikes with good results.
i sometimes see people on the Honda Dio portion of my explore page and they seem to do a technique of revving the bike with the rear brake applied at first, releasing once the clutch starts to grab to break the clutch in and wear it into bell, but i’m unsure if that’s really what i’m seeing.
anyways great topic for conversation! i’ve also thought of using my test maxi to set up clutches and mated clutch bells to sell to people :)
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I was just watching roadkill last week and they were talking about
> breaking in a car clutch, they said, 1000 miles of street driving before
> giving it the beans.
>
> I wonder if it would be a good idea to run a lighter spring for
> starters. I almost always do on a new build because it helps me feel
> out the low end and tip in on the carb.
>
> It kinda makes sense, there is almost a sintering process that happens
> with brake pads. The heat and pressure fuses the compound together and
> transfers ceramic material to the steel brake disc, if you don't
> properly bed in your brakes they just crumble since they aren't fused
> together.
Interesting you say that because I used the lightest claw springs for a bit before going all out.
> L e e wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Welded posts, 8-32 screws, white claw,
>
> It's ready!
>
> I milled posts down and actually put the whole thing in the lathe to
> shave the pads even, fun stuff!
This is express brake in : )
Skimming is a thing with a brakes but i newer saw someone do it with a clutch shoes 👍
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