What’s your opinion on the 15x12 roller cage for the stock vari? I’m frustrated with my varplus as I don’t get that much variation with a 1/2in belt which I prefer using due to ease of purchasing at varying lengths🐯🦖🐞🦉🐧🐥🦉🐽🙉.
Want to make the fixed cheek more steep and have the cheeks come together much more but I can’t with the varplus or the rollers will fly out.
So I was thinking of going back to the stock vari and then cutting it and the fixed cheek much more steep. I didn’t know if there’s more meat on the stock vari to stop roller fly out or not.
It's kinda shitty, you could probably make your own out of plastic or something? Wood? I dunno it's not doing much.
I'm stoked to try it but it's still not a great solution, I think I'm gonna try to 3d print something. Having to add the pins is annoying on a stock build, I might just print one for 2 steel balls so I don't have to fuck with pins.
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> What’s your opinion on the 15x12 roller cage for the stock vari? I’m
> frustrated with my varplus as I don’t get that much variation with a
> 1/2in belt which I prefer using due to ease of purchasing at varying
it wasnt great, if you mod some weights it could be better, however with the included weights you'll be at like 27g, so slightly lighter then stock (3 balls anyhow) the two balls in a 4 ball roller I think is the best option, thats 20g's, or replace the balls with Peugeot starter balls which are 7.5g, you wind up at 15g totall which has worked well for me, for some reason I think 12g would be the magic number, I dunno its just what my brain is telling me. 9g was just to light, when I moded some 3.4g weights to fit the 15x2 roller, ground down they weighed 3g each, couldnt variate enough to get to speed
I’ve got a box full of 15x12.
I came from scooters.
Anyways I went crazy today and tried a ton of things to see if the soldered wire hook below the spring thing could work. Well yes it does. But moving the posts did not. Made the slip really weird. either revved to the moon or was too low. Or high then low.
The original design is great I just wanted to make the springs less vulnerable to hitting the bell. So it’s working with shorter springs right now. Gonna do new cleaner soldered wire tomorrow and balance the clutch a lil bit. Maybe have a lathe party with this original one too.
I also tried doing an extra bolt on the leaf spring as these new leaf springs are weak as fuck. They just bend and don’t wanna come back. I don’t think it’s spring steel at all. I might have to switch back to original pads. I also noticed these partially delaminating a lil bit which is a huge drag.
Today I tried doing 2 new twisted loops, one with thicker wire and then them soldered together. I felt like I dropped just a bit of clutch rpm, this should fix it. The new loops I focused on getting the spring end tight to the bottom of the shoe. I then moved the posts out a little to get the rpm right.
I also repacked my clutch bearing, I always forget that there’s a hole in the hub that is meant to to lube the boss, but it can also allow grease to get all over your belt if you’re revving out. I kept revving high and not shifting after I put the bearing in. All slip, belt was covered in grease ugh.
Then I remembered that fucking hole. Next time I’m in there I’m going to seal it up somehow, probably jbweld.
That oring on the cover as well needs change if it has become hardened over time and exposure to grease...
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> Today I tried doing 2 new twisted loops, one with thicker wire and then
> them soldered together. I felt like I dropped just a bit of clutch rpm,
> this should fix it. The new loops I focused on getting the spring end
> tight to the bottom of the shoe. I then moved the posts out a little to
> get the rpm right.
> I also repacked my clutch bearing, I always forget that there’s a hole
> in the hub that is meant to to lube the boss, but it can also allow
> grease to get all over your belt if you’re revving out. I kept revving
> high and not shifting after I put the bearing in. All slip, belt was
> covered in grease ugh.
> Then I remembered that fucking hole. Next time I’m in there I’m going
> to seal it up somehow, probably jbweld.
101 posts of Moby goodness, maaaaannn this shop move needs to hurry up! I wanna play mopeds!
O hey im gonna be on the cbbg chat Saturday night answering Moby and V1 questions, get on and bring this thread up, Ill do a shot of Malort!
Oh I'm gonna be there asking some questions but they are all gonna be about the Dewey decimal system.
Today I modified a C clip.
The inner clutch circlip onto the crank.
It got a lil loose, and bending wasn’t allowing it to really grab the crank anymore, the ends would bump together! So I cut a touch off each end before the grabbin holes, cut with a dremel cutting wheel. Now it’s nice and snug on the crank. Also was cupped a bit but a few whacks with the baby sledge on an anvil and it was flat again.
As well, when positioning the stock clutch bell hub thing, I use a mini screwdriver to get the outer circlip into its groove. I press it in hard using the crank as leverage to make sure it’s seated. It often it looks like it’s in, but it ain’t IN until you push it in.
That’s what he said (edited)
I finally got my transmission tune nice, also swapped out the old stock pulley for an aluminum one, and swapped to 11/48, both from treatland.
That’s about as low as I’ll gear with this 50, pulls steep hills from a stop kick ass. It was so nice to pull off my weirdly warped 54 tooth sprocket making the chain tight then loose. Ugh.
Clutch is holding steady at the perfect rpm, gotta put a tach on it to see where it engages for future reference.
So yeah I’m kinda done fucking with moby shit for a bit. This has been fun.
Please try this clutch mod, and contra mod, and the variation lock too. It makes for a hella cool moby ridin party dawg. If this were kitted it would be insane to have all these shift control methods sitting on all that torque.
i know im resurrecting an old post but ive got a spare clutch and i want to do this mod.
my present clutch bites at about 5-6k but only because the material has almost worn off the leafs and i am getting sparks. looks great at night. ill have to do a video.
but it aint gonna last long so i want to do this.
in the time that has passed have you (or anyone else) modified or improved this mod?
i havent got a lathe but i can tig weld and have grinders.
like someone else posted maybe a backing plate using the 4 original tiny screw holes and several spring anchor holes in it easily vary spring tension?
im off in my shed now. i may be some time......
im a fool
obviously you cant secure the springs to a plate thats attached to the wrong part....
ive ground the arms bracket off - ready to weld it to the clutch back and will wait for any suggestions about mounting the springs. if not i will go ahead and copy
Im ran my modified stock vario for a while, got the bike all tuned in, but I have since replaced it with an er3, just so I can save the stock boi for Moped GP
That said, while my technique did and is still working well, I think Jbots is the superior mod, but it takes a bit more doing
i tried tig welding some better anchor points to the ends of the clutch leafs to hang the springs. but it must be some fancy kind of metal because the weld wouldnt "stick" and then all of a sudden it melted and fizzled up.
Probably wrong but spring metal is high carbon
Pretty common for springs to be some type of brass.
Put a magnet to it. So did some reading, im guessing clutch springs are this stuff cheep and just across the way from mobyland.
"Silicon Manganese: This alloy steel is quite popular in Great Britain. It is less expensive than chromium-vanadium steel and is available in round, square, and rectangular sections in both annealed and pre-tempered conditions in sizes ranging from 0.031 to 0.500 inch. It was formerly used for knee-action springs in automobiles. It is used in flat leaf springs for trucks and as a substitute for more expensive spring steels."
Not sure if mentioned in post but u can drill the spring n bell and add a third rivet.
> pat splat wrote:
> Put a magnet to it. So did some reading, im guessing clutch springs are
> this stuff cheep and just across the way from mobyland.
> "Silicon Manganese: This alloy steel is quite popular in Great Britain.
> It is less expensive than chromium-vanadium steel and is available in
> round, square, and rectangular sections in both annealed and
> pre-tempered conditions in sizes ranging from 0.031 to 0.500 inch. It
> was formerly used for knee-action springs in automobiles. It is used in
> flat leaf springs for trucks and as a substitute for more expensive
> spring steels."
> Not sure if mentioned in post but u can drill the spring n bell and add
> a third rivet.
drill and rivet would probably be superior to a weld, though mine is still holding, and Im no great welder, cross your fingers for my little Moby!
you can weld a mild steel tag to the end of the leaf spring if you grind the leaf metal back to shiny metal.
and here is my mk2 version with adjustable tension.
but there isnt enough surface area with two arms so im going for 4. and should have that welded up and running by dinner uk time.
as it is i adjust the tension so the bite point (stall ) is at say 5k rpm for 2 seconds and the bike is moving off but then it just slips to around 7k and stays there.
i tried softer springs to no avail. both are under the same tension - i measured the length precisely and got both the same. im hoping 4 leaf springs will cure the slipping. if not ill try weaker springs.
finished the 4 leaf adjustable clutch bell
quick test run with barely tensioned springs and it stalls at around 4500 rpm
i can either measure the length of all the springs or count the turns of the nuts/flats to ensure parity
im wondering if a few holes in the face would aid cooling? im not too bothered about weight saving but do like the look of weldwizard jakes mod
Wow cool, I love the implementation. Another way you might be able to balance tension would be to put a feeler gauge between the spring coils to see how expanded they are?
Wow, what a cool mod!
Did you balance it?
graham thats a fantastic idea. and brianf i havent balanced it. i didnt even consider that. my pal owns a tyre fitting balancing machine would that do it? im assuming you do mean weight balancing? looking at the pic i can see the left bolt is longer than the rest but there are two extra nuts on the top screws. im thinking adding more nuts where weight is needed would be a good way to balance it.
Yeah I'd imagine you could balance it like a tire by adding some weights at the right spots; I'm not sure how you'd figure out how to do it on a variator, I was just thinking about vibration at higher rpms.
> Brian F wrote:
> Yeah I'd imagine you could balance it like a tire by adding some weights
> at the right spots; I'm not sure how you'd figure out how to do it on a
> variator, I was just thinking about vibration at higher rpms.
Maybe , if room allows , place a ring of small tubing tight inside the bell , to the back .
Fill it about 1/4 way with lead shot or BBs .
Automatic balancing at every speed/RPM . ;)
Seal the ends together so the shot can easily traverse the union .
lol good idea. or how about clear tubing stuck to the outside so you could see it in action? would that actually help balance it or would the lead just get flung randomly all over the place?
ive had front wheel off and been waiting for some brake shoes to arrive from france so been unable to test the adjustability. shoes arrived yesterday
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