> Alan Jackson wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> lol good idea. or how about clear tubing stuck to the outside so you
> could see it in action? would that actually help balance it or would
> the lead just get flung randomly all over the place?
>
Yes , it would help balance . Just like balance beads/BBs in a tire , the shot would find the proper place for balance .
Not sure if there's room on the outside of the bell and how would it be kept in place ?
anyone trying this mod DO NOT attach the springs as in the last pic. the spring actually pulls the leafs back onto themselves so the middle is curved up. a bit like curving a playing card in your hand. the more you squeeze the more curved upwards it bends. as i tried stronger springs the penny soon dropped when i couldnt even fit the drum back on because the middles of the leafs were forced out too much.
this is the angle the springs need to be if using more than 2 springs. the angle of the tension keeps the leaves from bending upwards in the middle. 6k rpm engagement or stall has been acheived.
luckily i didnt have to re weld anything. i just moved the anchor point of the spring like so. ill post a video at the weekend as its now dark when i get home from work.
got it engaging at roughly 5 k. 0-30 in 50 metres. i'd like 6k so a bit more tweaking to be done yet. but it seems reliable or regular and constant.
Is there any benefit to making the starter clutch shoes lighter by drilling holes in them, slip wise? I’m a little worried about shortening the actual clutch shoes too but everyone seems to be doing it even with the added springs. Does it last? Also, I have 2 Peugeot clutch balls to put in a 4 ball roller guide but it seems I might be better off with McMaster ceramic balls in the 3 ball guide. Thoughts? Ported stock cylinder, stock pipe, shorty intake and Runtong carb. I don’t want to take this thing apart again. Thanks
I think the Peugeot balls are smaller? I've always used mbk balls in a 2 ball guide, you can fine tune it with the spring tension using washers to shim it.
I think jbot says that shortening the leaf springs is the only noticeable clutching change unless you put on the helper springs. When you say shoes it makes me think you are taking about the starter clutch?
If you lighten starter shoes you’ll have to pedal faster to start. It will still grab low tho.
Only serious moped dorks who mod the bell can use the extra springs. Then it works pretty good.
But for all intensive purposes it’s much easier just doing pull start or cardboard start with an er3 for performance
> Totally normal JBOT wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> If you lighten starter shoes you’ll have to pedal faster to start. It
> will still grab low tho.
>
> Only serious moped dorks who mod the bell can use the extra springs.
> Then it works pretty good.
>
> But for all intensive purposes it’s much easier just doing pull start
> or cardboard start with an er3 for performance
I agree with this
But I also found the 2 Peugeot balls in the 4 ball variator to be my favorite set up
Yes Peugeot balls are 11.8mm diameter and motobecane are 13.5mm. I’m pretty sure when I used my friends scale the Peugeot balls were closer to 7 grams. I don’t know if I want to order 4 McMaster 1/2” balls, it’s getting close to the price of a Varplus.
> Graham Motzing wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I think the Peugeot balls are smaller? I've always used mbk balls in a
> 2 ball guide, you can fine tune it with the spring tension using washers
> to shim it.
>
> I think jbot says that shortening the leaf springs is the only
> noticeable clutching change unless you put on the helper springs. When
> you say shoes it makes me think you are taking about the starter clutch?
I saw the 2 bolts on your flywheel. Do you just wrap a rope around it or is there a proper pullstart for an av7 with the Le partie?
> Totally normal JBOT wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> If you lighten starter shoes you’ll have to pedal faster to start. It
> will still grab low tho.
>
> Only serious moped dorks who mod the bell can use the extra springs.
> Then it works pretty good.
>
> But for all intensive purposes it’s much easier just doing pull start
> or cardboard start with an er3 for performance
My av7 uses a rope loop on those 2bolts. Don’t like it as much as a recoil or a alu disc with knot cutout, but it works well enough. The bolts are a lil too far out so you have pull fast which sucks. I’m going to rebuild at some point and I’ll add a alu disc bolted to those threaded holes in the flywheel
i use a nylon pulley bolted to the le partie stator with a tiny cut out. ive found the higher the bite point on the clutch the quicker the leafs wear out. i did one set in a week. then you get amazing fireworks from metal on metal. ive now settled for 4k engagement and get round that by never slowing down.
> Kevin Hurt wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> to 7 grams. I don’t know if I want to order 4 McMaster 1/2” balls, it’s
> getting close to the price of a Varplus.
>
That’s why I shared that Amazon 13mm ball bearings in my thread that I guess should have gone here. 13mm as opposed to 13.7 and I’ve found them in two different weights. Three if you include the nylon ones I ordered in case I get fired up and put ‘em on that Michigan bass diet.
While I had the thing taken apart I poured the variator face full of epoxy so I now have a blank plug for future fuckery. I’m gonna make that thing function off of three bean bags full of the little twist off spark plug tips and a some diatomaceous earth so everytime I ride I have red eyed elephant nose dudes following me.
How important is that c-clip that holds the clutch bell/variator assembly to the crank? Mine is so buried in there that I’ve been using a puller to get the assembly off. I can’t get I. In my head what purpose it serves after you get the clutch plate seated and torqued down.
And I need to modify my launch lever and/or get the engine spring dialed I better. My 12 wides have trouble engaging that thing. Im thinking I’m gonna make it a few inches longer and with a wider pedal.
> Thomas TPRF wrote:
>
> How important is that c-clip that holds the clutch bell/variator
> assembly to the crank? Mine is so buried in there that I’ve been using
> a puller to get the assembly off. I can’t get I. In my head what
> purpose it serves after you get the clutch plate seated and torqued
> down.
>
Those damn clips! I usually run with out them, dunno if that is the right way? But when I run stock that is how I go about it
Anyone else have trouble with the Peugeot balls getting jammed at full variation? It just started happening to me after like 500 miles. Don’t use your finger to push them in!
old thread and all that - but those c clips are to keep the clutch in the right place so your belts line up and the clutch/variator housing doesnt rub against the crankcases. ive tried shims in between the housing and cases and ran without clips but it can wander a bit. ive also had it where when you tighten the 14mm centre nut the clutch locks up tightly and thats remedied by putting more shims UNDER the first inner circlip.
with the right modded circlip pliers and a stongly magnetized screwdriver they come off with experience in less than 2 minutes.
I actually looked at this thread this week lol
You only need the 15mm circlip and you can use a normal circlip not a fancy French one
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