Re: Solo Fuckery

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Re: Solo Fuckery

Question: is there a chemical sealant better than yamabond for something like this? I’d just like to add a lil goo besides just the copper.

Gotta keep the water and cylinder separate

Three bond? Head gasket sealer? Copper spray?

Re: Solo Fuckery

Or do these run so cool that most sealants would hold up?

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It might end up being kinda a big gap, eh?

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What?

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🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

I have one of the NOS crate motors of these so looking forward to this

Uhh when I ran a Vespa h2o kit there was some crazy blue sealant I used (it was a permatex product designed for water/combustion area

This was in Santa Cruz in like 2007 so fuck if I remember what it was. It worked great tho

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This one?

Re: Solo Fuckery

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

> JBOT Admin Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> This one?

nooooo, dont use that. That's basically Indian Head in paste format, except it doesn't harden. I use that stuff for base gaskets and intake gaskets sometimes.

I would use a very thin layer of yamabond or any anaerobic sealant just on the very outer portion of the copper gasket to seal out the water, and I would rely on just the copper of the gasket further inward to seal in the combustion.

Permatex ultra copper rtv might be a better option?

But first I would try with just the head gasket and no sealant, just make sure the surfaces are flat n stuff. If it won't seal enough then go with some sealant to help.

Just go with it, if you hydrolock the engine and grenade it just by another one for 50 bux (edited)

Re: Solo Fuckery

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

Re: Solo Fuckery

I also have aviation form a gasket I might try

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🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

No it wasn't that. It specifically was for assemblies that contact water. I'll try some googling

Maybe like water pump sealant? I used it with a cork head gasket on this kit:

http://www.treatland.tv/vespa-piaggio-polini-38mm-50cc-water-cooled-kit-p/vespa-polini-50cc-h2o-kit-ciao.htm

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🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin /

And yes, the cork gasket was what came from the factory. Possible it was impregnated with aluminum but def not copper

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silicone should be good vs water and heat, and the copper RTV theoretically might help heat transfer to the head - right?

Is there any way without a radiator (or actively evaporating) that the water "cooling" jacket isn't demonstrably worse for cooling?

Those 2 speed pulleys are super cool. Damon was super into those

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I’ve heard it keeps these cyls at a max of about 200 degrees cht. We will see soon

Re: Solo Fuckery

> JBOT Admin Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> I’ve heard it keeps these cyls at a max of about 200 degrees cht. We

> will see soon

I dont get how it can work, where does the heat go? the liquid cant expand, it cant move to a cooler location and fall back into the head, and it cant boil off either?

Re: Solo Fuckery

> Toledo Riot Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > JBOT Admin Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > I’ve heard it keeps these cyls at a max of about 200 degrees cht. We

>

> > will see soon

>

> I dont get how it can work, where does the heat go? the liquid cant

> expand, it cant move to a cooler location and fall back into the head,

> and it cant boil off either?

If there was ridges inside I could see the heat shearing off the water due to the turbulence but it seems totally smooth.

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I think it works by conducting heat better to the outer fins, maybe than solid aluminum..

Who knows..

Water can’t heat up to get up past boiling easily.

It would want to turn to steam but it can’t because it’s sealed. I’m sure a physics person could help out with this.

Re: Solo Fuckery

The physics are pretty basic when it comes to heat transfer, pretty much any time you have any interface you lose a lot of heat transfer. It's significantly worse than just solid aluminum, like theoretically orders of magnitude, to the point I would expect it probably sheds more heat through the metal-metal contact points than thru the water.

The only ways liquid cooling works are

1) Moving heat. water's got good heat capacity, and transfers heat better into it. Like metal to liquid is better than metal to air. Then you can pump or siphon the hot water to an efficient radiator, and pump it back in. It's just moving the heat via water to a better cooler.

2) absorbing energy. Water does have a high heat capacity so it'll soak up more energy to heat it up, like a big heat sink. Doubt that'd really get you far tho. Or much more so it cools stuff by taking a BUNCH of energy to evaporate. so evaporative cooling can keep stuff super cool, but only if it's allowed to evaporate. But that'd require pretty regular refills.

So on the solo, if it's not moving the hot water to an efficient radiator and replacing with cooler water, and if it's not evaporating the water, then the water jacket is just impeding heat transfer outta the cylinder. It's like a jacket, an insulating layer. Cuz your heat loss is all off the outer fins anyway, it's just got a more convoluted path to get there

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I keep High Tack sealant on hand for these types of gaskets .

It's the best I've found .

I've used it on both 2 and 4 stroke head gaskets .

I had an Izuzu pickup that liked to eat head gaskets and crack heads .

After using High Tack , I didn't seem to have the problem anymore . Or , it stretched the time between long enough that I didn't see the problem before some college kids pulled out in front and totaled both vehicles .

Anyway :

80064 - PERMATEX® HIGH TACK™ SPRAY-A-GASKET™ SEALANT

Fast-drying all-purpose sealant dries to a highly tacky, non-brittle film. A reliable general adhesive remains tacky indefinitely – can be applied in advance for convenience in assembly. Remains effective at temperatures of -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Sensor-safe. Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane. Aerosol Level 3 .

Re: Solo Fuckery

I really think that some dumbass engineering manager just had a boner for this stupid idea and nobody could talk him out of it. I've seen so much stupid shit get done for that reason...

The 'reduced heat transfer' theory is fully bunk, though, because the limiting factor is always going to be the convective into the air, and the water is going to even out the cylinder temp so instead of having the base of the head fins at say 350 degrees and the fins lower down on the cylinder at say 200°, this way the water equalizes the temp and all of the fins are carrying the same base temperature therefore the heat transfer goes up for the whole cylinder.

Re: Solo Fuckery

Look Idk I just know that solo has a big boost molded into the cases that’s hidden by a piece of cast and that is hilarious. I also saw there’s a mark on the cyl where this boost is supposed to be.

So I cut said boost into the cyl, previous boost was smaller than a tic tac. It turned out good for the unusual depth I had to cut. The original boost was a fucking 90 deg bullshit cut, so I did the best I could to do it closer to aiming at the plug.

Ported the piston with gas porting to the transfers and a window for the boost, looks nice.

Now I just gotta reassemble and get the squish ok, should be interesting

Wondering if a 10 Sha will work :)

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Went about 60% of bore for the ex. Barely raised the timing. We’ll see if it’s grunty.

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Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

This is exciting

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Downhill Harvey (OFMC) /

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Yeah I saw that.

But did you port at all?

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Downhill Harvey (OFMC) /

> JBOT Admin Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> But did you port at all?

Nope, nothing. I was still a noob, back then.

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I honestly think with the boost port opened, a pipe a real carb and a re gear these bikes are fully capable of 50/50. You are on the right track. With the stock carb and no porting I had my solo going way way too fast for the suspension and brakes to handle, and it effortlessly cruised 40mph.

Re: Solo Fuckery

Awesome.

My problem is that I just found out the front is rigid too. It has shock boots but no top bolts or way to disassemble so I think the front forks are fake suspension.

Rear welded “swing”arm can be cut off the frame and made to actually swing with some shocks. So this bike is going to suck to ride until I swap forks and fix the rear.

The cases and cyl have a huge amount of velocity from those giant transfers, so a normal sized boost should make it that much better.

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Jeremy Homser /

Jbot i knew you were the right guy for this bike. Im excited to see your progress and im glad its not just sitting in my yard anymore.

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Thanks for it.

It got me back into the garage and I desperately needed that. It’s funny that my radiator repair blew up when I got to your place, I macguyver vans too lol

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