Holy shit I just read this whole thing and it melted my brain! I rigged a 14/12 and drilled out the intake to 14. I would love mild porting advise as I have the $50 special laying here as a spare. I have done case matching but never cylinder and piston work. Please advise!
That bike looks dope!
Yeah cool bike. Well I laid it all out here, if you have any direct questions just ask
Sent you a pm here.
Had some hot temps that got me 4 cornering, became a superheated sealed water chamber when ripping hills.....got to 350 sealed up and that sucks. That’s too hot for a sealed chamber and I felt like the pressures were getting a bit too obscene.
So I chopped some 1/8npt ports with 3/8 or 1/2in barb into the cyl and head and now it can run thru a radiator. Have to play with hose diameter but it should keep temps closer to 200 than 350 at least.
Are you going to thermosiphon this or drive off a pump?
Don’t know, thermo hasn’t worked for me like ever. I like to push timing if I can so a pump really helps keep it cooler on the long mountains. I’m gonna try that weird ruckus plastic radiator to see how it does.
The 2 speed pulley is leaking like crazy. I think it’s the front axle seal so I gotta figure out what size it is then swap that. Used sealant for the large black covers oring but that’s holding fine.
I gotta chop these pedal arms too. Gonna switch to a legal version of “operable” pedals with like 1-2 inch travel so they won’t hit the ground on turns. Riding with the lever activated antibackup pedal function, I’m always trying to bring one pedal arm side up for turns since this moped is low boiii but it’s not fun to have to prepare the pedal position every turn and pull a lever to backpedal.. I guess I’m used to backpedaling more than front pedaling
Maybe I’ll get better at releasing the lock it but getting your shins smashed at stops from the pedal shaft being totally unlocked is way worse so yeah cool story bro
Well fuck it,
I don’t like this bike with a radiator and pump. It just ruins this bike for me. If I can’t run the sealed water chamber original cyl id rather go air cooled with a kit. So I put 1/8npt plugs in the ports I tapped. And refilled like original.
But think I can get the sealed chamber to work even to very high temps. My 4 cornering was just from too lean and hot and advanced timing, but all those variables can be adjusted to get a happy mix for temps I think.
So I retarded timing a bit and gonna upjet the carb tomorrow. Rode the mountains today and it did great, got to 360 but was fine with no 4 cornering. Just very happy to ride this stupid weird fucking bike again.
On a plus’s you can change or check the fluid without pulling the kit apart. Such a cool bike.
Why not just run some copper 3/8ths tubing or something along the frame or in a cool design and use that itself as the radiator
It’s more about the look and spirit of the bike.
The sealed chamber idea is 100% unique to this engine and it just seems wrong not to use it if I can get away with using it. No one has really pushed this setup and I’d like to experiment with it as much as possible before going to a pump/rad. I’d also like to try that waterless coolant in this setup just to see what would happen. It doesn’t boil til like 375 or something.
I can always add a radiator later if jetting and timing doesn’t drop temps to where I need them.
What I do want to do is add a temp or pressure sensor into the 1/8npt port I cut in to know the water temp and pressure. Just gotta find one that would work.
I mean yeah idk what a e s t h e t I c a you're going for but thought just some raw copper hidden along the frame or something to have a radiator without having a radiator ya know
i was wondering if there was anyway you could have stepped ramps in the variator so as to emulate gear changes?
stepped and angled?
would/could something like that work?
I already can. I have the vari lock on this setup so I can stop variation wherever I want. But the 2 speed pulley throws a wrench into this by shifting at odd times sometimes dependent on throttle position and variation amount.
I need to play with shift variables once it’s running consistently
yeah ive seen your "notched" vari lock. i just thought if the ramps were stepped then there would be a bit more predictable "gear changes"
What is 4 cornering in this context?
> Brian F wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> What is 4 cornering in this context?
When a piston soft or hard seizes both sides of exhaust and intake….
> EH FCC of the QCB wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Brian F wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > What is 4 cornering in this context?
>
> When a piston soft or hard seizes both sides of exhaust and intake….
Ahh got it, thank you!
It only had scoring on the 2 corners near the intake.. wasnt bad and reducing timing helped with temps. Haven’t gone over 360 now and it’s mostly as powerful as before.
Still climbed the big 3 steep hills I have around here so that’s cool
WELL shit.
I’ve been not happy with the 47cc cylinder. The static water jacket just can’t cool enough with my crazy hills out here, so we’re kitting this solo.
I bought a Tomos A3 45mm piston with a 10 pin, that will be living inside a 45mm DMP puch cylinder I had over here. I have to make a custom spacer that’s gonna be like 20mm thick to take up the extra space between the cases and puch kit. But the studs line up perfect so less work to do.
Then for now I’m going to use a kinda destroyed Gila head ken roff sent me, just have to fix it on the lathe and cut it to 45mm.
Should be a fun project, case reed dmp kit. Limited to using a 16mm carb for now but it should be ok.
Hell yea, into it. Do the fins line up the right way? I def savagely demolished a 103 cylinder on a beta cuz the fins were for vertical and the beta is horizontal. Scorched it.
Solo needs attention and crafty options
Did the head and spacer rough today.
I thought it was a Gila head but maybe not? Any ideas?
Next is finishing spacer then porting.
Yeah fins are puch style, it’ll cool fine. If I have any probs I’ll just cut back compression or timing or both.
I don’t have any roughing mills so I just drilled the space to save my end mill tips from getting dull.
Head is pretty big compared to the dmp kit
I think it’s just a magnum head actually. Are they bigger than standard heads?
This thing was hacked on so bad. But a lil time in the lathe and it’s totally usable now
Yep magnum head. The stock kits had the bigger sized fin patterns on them. I used one
On my hobbit for a while.
I still have that spacer casting that you said you didn't need, could have saved you a lot of time but maybe the huge transfers wouldn't have lined up.
If you're doing v1-puch it ends up being 18, so you could totally go all the way up to a jog cylinder with the case reeds and it would be like 26 I think? Jog already has 10 pin but you know that.
Yeah I will put an extra aluminum plate if I want to run that vertical or horizontal minarelli kit.
Your V1 spacer would not work. There’s no transfer bowls on v1, unlike the solo. I would have had to run a plate over those case bowls and it just would have flowed terribly.
Trust me I would have preferred to not have to make that thick ass spacer but I had to and it’s almost done.
Ohhhhh yeah I remember you telling me that, barely keep track of my own shit can't follow all the rad shit you're building too.
Progress.
1. Finished spacer and settled on 19mm thick, also cut the top of the cyl to get compression and squish better with the exh fully open at BDC. I fucked up part of the spacer which I have to tig tomorrow. It’s a tricky location and I just milled off 2 extra mm but it’s enough to almost leave a transfer unsealed. Boooo
2. Cut the heads fins back on the lathe to have a smaller area to flatten, then flattened
3. Ported the cyl and removed all the boost extra shit, I wanted a straight shot thru the old intake (still have to make a blockoff plate
4. Ported bottom of piston and cyl skirts to play nice at bdc.
5. There is no 5
You can see how tight the spacer is between each case round protruding thing. I should have cut the spacer to be more funnel shaped to give more transfer room up top. But doesn’t matter, tig will save me.
(edited)
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