> Graham Motzing Wrote:
> Ken, i just finished up rebuilding my road dog rally beater, once I get
> it broke in, I'm switching over to a55 CDI, with the parmakit box.
> Stock tomos made in Slovenia quality, I'll post an update, I think you
> will like it. I wanted to get it broke in first because I'm going to be
> playing around with timing and advance curves and I find they are a
> little more forgiving after the first 50 miles or so. It's running 20
> deg right now on points and I ragged the hell out of it, new pipe and
> I'm going to push it even harder. Maybe go down to 16/45!!
YA That’s the ticket! a Stock Tomos a55 is a Great ignition.
Way more reliable than those race ignition’s and you can keep a side cover on them and they won’t burn up,
My 06 revival with high compression stock milled Head, performance pipe and filter rarely hits 325° Even on the hottest days goin up hill and its 14 plus years old but the bike has never been in in bad weather though,
Revival does have battery but the bike has does have a regulator too and it does have a box which are electrical items probably would run without a battery though I never tried it.
a55 ignition would definitely be a great alternative to one of those race ignitions that you have to leave coils uncovered to have cooling and the curve of a ignition like a HPI is hard on the clutches and drive train You just need a nice straight line down to low degrees BTDC @ hi rpm
Something like on this curve from 5,500 to 9,500 but even more of a straight line down would be great on a puch
As you can see at around 9k RPM timing is around 14° before top dead center so the ignition needs to retard to about 12° For cool running @ 9,500 rpm The problem is you can’t set static timing ignitions at 12° and have any power to hit that rpm unless you were launching downhill
My favorite Moped engine (most all my bikes) is the Za50 and it will stay together along time with stock internals (other then crank) If you keep it around 9-9.5k max, e50 also if you keep it around 9-9.5k max rpm it will stay together a long time using stock internals, gears, bearings, clutch etc, (again other than crank) but Needle bearing cranks should be put on all puch engines like the later models came with stock,
The crank is a puch weak link because most times not only do they have a brass bushing at the piston pin they have a bushing instead of needle bearings in the big end too and only tiny little grooves in big end for gas oil mix to get in the big end of crank,
I think Mopeds should be kept on a somewhat cheap budget for everyday use, something like like doing cheep performance upgrades you would do to your everyday use car to some more performance out of it without going full race
Building race engines is a complete different story though!