MOPED ARMY

I ran into issues taking the engine case apart with the flywheel. The fly nut was stripped and i had to drill it out. after drill the nut out I discovered the threads for the puller were to damaged to use. so i tried pulling it with a 3 jaw puller and the flywheel bent instead of popping off so I had to cut the flywheel off with angle grinder I tried to steer clear of the coils underneath but nicked them enough to have to replace those as well. :(

We are still in the process of getting everything put back together proper, but already i had to do some significant grinding of the cylinder to get the intake that came with the kit to seat properly, I also need to shave off some from the sides of the reed block. I matched the intake and reed block as well (didn't have a pic of the finished matched reed but it's almost there in the pic)

we are getting everything back together now , case shimming is VERY important apparently. We had everything bind on us a couple times before we realized the aftermarket case gasket was too thin and had to cut our own and the service manual called for a shim on the clutch output shaft that wasn't there when we took it apart and wasn't needed after all. I'll post some more up once we get it on the bike and chugging

What size SHA are you running?

Nice documentation and solid work! Look forward to seeing the progress report on this...

Kenny, We had to custom mount the pipe and re-weld it to get it out of the way of the stand, and an intake is easy enough to make and run any carb if you make it a rubber mount.

I've run into a problem trying to get the case halves back together proper though. Everything seems to be in place and spins, but when I spin the pedals forward it engages everything and spins the crank, they shouldn't do that without me pulling the clutch engagement right? Could it be shimmed wrong or possibly I re-assembled it wrong? I was pretty sure, according to the manual, that I had everything in place. anyone ever have this problem?

You should be able to crank that nut on there and not have it bind. Seems like a re-shim would take care of that so you don't need to worry about the crank nut coming undone in the case and causing havoc

Hows this coming along? This weekend I was case matching for a Gila and blew through the wall in the transfer, JB curing right now, going to open the clutch side and add some more on the inside to hold, hopefully it'll last.

update, got it started up finally yesterday. didn't have the correct jet in yet so I haven't run it too much, but it seems like the clutch is slipping too much and isn't really grabbing. I need to take a look in there and see what's going on. sounds pretty good so far though, even with the wrong jet, if I leave the choke on it idles ok , but I also mixed rich for the break in. (edited)

Interesting roffman I've never heard about oil gumming a new kit, I could of swore I said I hadn't re-jetted it properly yet too. What I meant by a little rich is I added a cap full to the tank because I knew I was running lean and just trying to see if it would start up. I haven't even ridden it around the block yet because of the clutch issue.

I do a heavy dominator mix on new kits too. That bike looks awesome good job on adding the material to the cases. JB weld can either be victorious if done properly. However done poorly it can be a recipe for almost Incurable air leaks.

Good write up so far. I always wish more people would do this.

I used it to add to a kits transfers before. It works okay if you let it cure properly and if there is a lot you have to wait longer. Seen lots of dude use it before it is sandwiched with the kit and the kit still rests on the original cases. Biggest this is roughing up the surface and making sure it is clean 🧼

It’s not a conspiracy

My experience is based on actual experience since 1970s

Not by being taught from someone who just has to published a paper to teach

I worked at a marina that was a authorized service center for many brands of outboards. servicing new and used outboards .

Engine manufactures that had the break-in period to use double amount of oil for break in period (25to1)

All came back needing powerhead changing because rings were stuck in the grooves and build up underneath the ring damaged cylinder walls/premature wear.

Service bulletins were issued for force/Chrysler and other outboard manufactures do not put more than 50 to 1 oil ratio during break in

The problems disappeared,

Polini issued a service bulletin 12-15 years ago to decrease the amount the oil used in puch kits to the ratio of to 60 to 1

Because problems with the thin small ring getting stuck and buildup underneath ring made it bulge out it causing the ring to snag

Too much oil gums up the ring makes them stick and score that’s just what it is.

if you use a high amount oil in the gas mix you need take apart your topend frequently to clean rings and other things like exhaust ports.

That’s why every new used bike I get

one of the first things I do to the engine besides service magneto is to remove the top end to inspect,

Most times one or two rings are seized/stuck because people think more oil is better

Car engines get damaged by putting too much oil in them too because the crank hits the high oil level whipping air into it making for less oil pressure not more like people think!

More oil then what manufacturers recommend in the mix is not better and should only be used if you’re racing and you take apart your engine frequently

Its totally a conspiracy

cast iron kit == treat it like a cast iron pan

sIEZEon that kit, youre gonna need to wear off any factory abnormalities with a good soft sieze or 2.

You might think I am joking but I am not. Cast Iron is a different beast and these nikasil lovers don't know how to treat it

Amsoil dominator 30:1 break in,

60:1 after rings are seated.

Never had a problem